Brand: GE Model Number: GUD27ESSM1WW Main Symptom: Overfill-Cycle not starting (washer). What happens & when:
This washer has become sort of a project for me at this point, and I’m either making it more complicated than it needs to be, or not enough. I’m hoping somebody can help elucidate how these things work.
Currently the washer will power on like normal, you can start a cycle and it will fill with water, but it will just fill and fill until it hits the overflow/over-pressure sensor, and drain from there.
I’ve run the diagnostic test on the pressure sensor, and that comes out fine - it registers the levels (lights turn solid) at the 2,3,4,5,6 levels.
The board is new as I replaced the old one, which was tripping/turning off during a wash cycle. I tested the motor coils for resistance, thinking maybe the motor was going bad and drawing too much, but the resistances seem to come out correctly for a bi-directional motor.
It does look like the reed-switch, lid-lock sensor is stuck closed, however. I measure continuity across the YR and Tan lines to be about .5 ohms, normal for a contact. I’ve tested that in the presence of the magnet and without it, and it doesn’t change.
I’ve run the diagnostic test for the lid-lock and it will read an open lock though (blinking lid-lock status during the test). with or without the lid-lock sensor plugged in.
So I’m wondering if this could all be caused by the lid-lock sensor/switch, or if I possible got a bad board.
Any help would be appreciated.
Error Code (if any):
Parts or tests already tried:
Photos / video link:
Thanks for all the detailed troubleshooting. You’ve already done quite a bit of work on this washer, and I think we can narrow things down without throwing another control board at it.
On your GE GUD27ESSM1WW, there are two issues worth investigating: the washer isn’t recognizing when it has reached the proper water level, and the lid-lock circuit appears to be giving an incorrect reading.
The lid switch could certainly be faulty, but I wouldn’t assume it’s responsible for the overfilling just yet.
Here’s how I’d approach it.
1. Start with the water-level sensing system
The fact that the pressure sensor passes diagnostics at levels 2 through 6 is encouraging. However, it doesn’t necessarily prove that the control is correctly responding to those readings during a normal wash cycle.
I’d check the pressure hose before replacing anything else.
Unplug the washer.
Locate the small pressure hose running from the tub’s air chamber to the water-level sensing system.
Check for kinks, cracks, loose connections, or blockage.
Disconnect the hose at the sensing end and gently blow through it toward the tub. You should be able to move air through it without significant resistance.
Don’t blow directly into an electronic pressure sensor, since that could damage it.
A partially blocked air chamber can cause incorrect water-level readings even when the sensor itself is working.
2. Check whether the control is actually shutting off the water
This is an important test because it separates a water valve problem from a control or sensing problem.
Start a fill cycle and allow the washer to fill beyond its normal water level. While the water is still entering, press Pause or Cancel.
If the water stops immediately: The inlet valve is responding to the control. I’d concentrate on the pressure sensing system and its wiring.
If the water continues entering: Unplug the washer. If water continues flowing with power disconnected, the inlet valve is mechanically stuck open.
If the water stops only when power is removed: We need to determine whether the control is incorrectly keeping the valve energized.
Don’t allow the machine to reach an actual overflow while performing this test.
3. Investigate the lid-switch reading
Your measurement of approximately 0.5 ohms between the yellow/red and tan wires, regardless of whether the magnet is present, is suspicious if those are the correct two terminals for the reed switch.
Normally, a magnetic reed switch changes state when the magnet moves into or out of position.
I would repeat the test with the lid-lock assembly completely disconnected from the washer harness.
With the power disconnected:
Measure resistance directly across the reed-switch terminals.
Move the lid magnet toward and away from the switch.
Watch for the reading to change between continuity and an open circuit.
If the reading stays at 0.5 ohms in both positions, the switch may be stuck closed. However, I’d want to verify the exact terminals before condemning the assembly.
Also, the lid-lock diagnostic showing an open lock with the assembly connected or disconnected could indicate a failed locking mechanism, damaged wiring, or an issue with how the control is reading that circuit.
Keep in mind that the lid switch and the lid-lock feedback circuit aren’t necessarily the same thing. A washer can recognize the lid as closed while still reporting that the lid isn’t locked.
4. Don’t overlook the replacement control board
Since the original board was replaced because it was shutting down during operation, I’d also verify that the replacement is the correct board for this exact model and that any required configuration was completed.
An incorrect or improperly configured replacement board could produce unusual cycle behavior.
However, because your pressure sensor responds during diagnostics, I wouldn’t condemn the new board without checking the pressure hose, wiring, and valve operation first.
What I’d like to know next
I have three questions that should help us narrow this down considerably:
When the washer is filling, does pressing Pause immediately stop the incoming water?
During the pressure sensor diagnostic, do the indicator lights change as the water level rises naturally, or are you manually activating the sensor?
Does the washer ever attempt to agitate, or does it simply fill until the overflow protection activates and then drain?
That third question is especially important. If the washer never attempts to agitate, we need to determine whether the control is waiting for a valid water-level signal or a valid lid-lock condition.
My suspicion right now is that you may have a pressure-sensing problem and a separate lid-lock issue. But with those three answers, we should be able to identify which one is actually preventing the wash cycle from starting.
I’d hold off on purchasing another board or lid-lock assembly until we get those results.
The drawing you sent is one I have been referencing, so I am sure about the lid-lock sensor being stuck as I have referenced it. I tried to unstick it via hitting it with the door (lol), but no luck. It is not hard to replace, though. I found a replacement switch that I also checked continuity across and verified it opens/closes in the presence of the lid/magnet (open/shut).
To answer the questions you posted.
The water does not stop if you hit pause while it is filling. It does stop if you rotate the rotary dial though. It does stop when I flip the breaker for the washer as well.
I ran the diagnostic test without interference from me. The water fills and the lights turn solid. I have not measured resistance across the sensor itself, however. I’ve only noted that the lights turn solid as the water level rises.
the cycle never reaches the agitation phase. It simply fills until the overflow protection starts.
About the pressure sensing. I have removed the pressure switch hose (from the board sensor) and blown into it. Air does move through it, with slight resistance, but does pass through it.
Thanks for the detailed update! That helps narrow things down quite a bit, and I think we’re getting closer to finding the problem.
The biggest clue is that the washer continues filling even when you press Pause, but stops when you turn the cycle selector or shut off power. That suggests the water valve isn’t simply stuck open mechanically. Instead, something may be keeping it electrically energized when it should shut off.
Also, since the water-level diagnostic test responds correctly as the tub fills, I’m less suspicious of the pressure sensor itself. However, that test doesn’t necessarily prove the control board is responding correctly to the water-level readings during a normal wash cycle.
Here’s what I’d check next:
1. Check the pressure hose and air chamber. You mentioned blowing through the hose and feeling some resistance. That’s worth investigating. Disconnect the hose at both ends, inspect it for moisture, debris, or kinks, and make sure it’s clear. Also check the air chamber where the hose connects to the tub for buildup. A restriction there can interfere with accurate water-level readings. Don’t blow directly into the electronic pressure sensor on the control board.
2. Check voltage at the water inlet valve. This is probably our most useful next test. With the washer filling, measure AC voltage across the two terminals of the energized valve solenoid. You should see approximately 120 VAC. Then press Pause and measure again. If the valve still receives approximately 120 VAC, the control circuit is continuing to supply power when it shouldn’t. If voltage drops to zero but water continues flowing, the valve is mechanically sticking.
3. Replace the faulty lid-lock sensor. Since you’ve already confirmed that the original sensor remains closed and the replacement operates correctly, I would replace it. However, I wouldn’t assume that’s what’s causing the overfilling. A lid-lock problem could prevent agitation or spinning, but it doesn’t normally explain why the washer ignores the proper fill level.
One additional thing concerns me: You mentioned replacing the main control board because the original was shutting down during operation. Since this problem developed after that replacement, I’d also want to verify that the replacement board is the correct version for your GUD27ESSM1WW and that any required configuration was completed.
A quick safety reminder: The inlet valve voltage test involves live 120-volt power. Use caution and keep your hands clear of exposed electrical connections. Disconnect power before moving test leads or removing connectors.
At this point, I wouldn’t purchase another control board or pressure sensor just yet.
My biggest question is this: When you press Pause and the water continues filling, does the washer otherwise acknowledge the Pause command, such as changing indicator lights or responding to another button?
That, along with the voltage reading at the inlet valve during Pause, should help us determine whether we’re dealing with a control issue, a wiring problem, or something else in the fill circuit.
I will inspect the hose again. All I can for sure say about the pressure hose itself is that, I can blow air through it but with slight resistance. I can see into the tub air-chamber there is a lot of scum(?)/deposits. I’m not sure if there is a good method for cleaning that out?
Okay, so I can’t easily get to the water valve itself, but I checked the voltage from the pins of the J514 plug. it looks pin 1 is the common, jumped between both cold and hot valves, with 2 and 3 being to the corresponding cold/hot valve solenoid?. I did measure 120AC across 1/2 and 1/3 (with water temp dial on hot). That reading stayed the same while the water was filling and after I pressed pause on the control.
I’ve replaced that switch on the lid at this point.
I’m wondering if this isn’t a wiring issue, or a short to ground somewhere. As far I know the board is the correct replacement. WH16X27251 was the replacement I ordered, and for the most part it looks the same. The revision number looks newer (I’m assuming that’s what it is), but all the relays and everything else looks the same.
As far as configuration…I would not know how to check that. I’m an electrical technician, but not well versed in Washers and Dryers.
Thanks for the detailed update! You’re doing a great job narrowing this down, and your electrical background is definitely helpful here.
Based on your latest voltage readings, I think we’re getting closer to the problem. The biggest clue is that you’re still measuring 120 VAC at J514 after pressing Pause. That suggests the water valves may still be receiving power when they should be shutting off.
Here’s how I’d approach this before replacing anything else.
1. Clean the pressure hose and air chamber
The buildup you’re seeing in the air chamber could absolutely contribute to the overfilling problem. The pressure sensor needs to detect changes in air pressure as the water level rises. If that chamber is partially blocked, the sensor may not receive the correct pressure.
I’d recommend:
Unplug the washer and shut off the water.
Disconnect the pressure hose from the control board.
Remove the hose from the tub connection if accessible.
Flush the hose with warm water and make sure it’s completely clear.
Clean the air chamber using warm water and a small flexible nylon brush or similar nonmetallic tool, if accessible.
Avoid sharp objects or excessive pressure that could damage the chamber.
Don’t blow compressed air into the control board’s pressure sensor.
When reinstalling the hose, make sure it’s dry, properly seated, and free of cracks.
2. Verify the voltage at J514
Your readings are particularly interesting.
You measured approximately 120 VAC across pins 1–2 and 1–3, both while filling and after pressing Pause.
If those are indeed the valve supply circuits, that suggests the control may be continuing to energize the valves.
However, there’s one important distinction: measuring voltage at an unplugged connector isn’t always the same as measuring it with the valves connected. You can sometimes see misleading voltage readings on an unloaded circuit.
Here’s the test I’d like you to perform:
Leave J514 connected and carefully back-probe the appropriate terminals.
Start a fill cycle and confirm approximately 120 VAC across the valve’s two supply wires.
Press Pause while the washer is filling.
Watch whether the voltage drops to approximately 0 VAC.
Live Power Warning: These are exposed 120-volt circuits. Use insulated probes and avoid moving or disconnecting connectors with power applied.
If voltage remains at 120 VAC under load after Pause, the valves are likely still being commanded on or receiving power through an unintended path.
If voltage drops to 0 VAC but water continues flowing, the water inlet valve itself is mechanically sticking open.
3. Check the replacement control board
You mentioned installing WH16X27251.
Before assuming the replacement board is defective, I’d verify that this is the correct control assembly for your exact model and that any required configuration or programming has been completed.
The fact that the replacement looks identical doesn’t necessarily mean it’s configured identically.
I’d also inspect the harness connectors for bent terminals, damaged insulation, or wires that may have been moved during the board replacement.
A short to ground is possible, but I wouldn’t make that my leading suspect yet. A control output that remains energized, a wiring fault, or a control configuration issue would be higher on my list.
4. What your earlier pressure sensor test tells us
You mentioned that the pressure sensor diagnostic showed the indicator lights responding correctly as the water level increased.
That’s encouraging because it suggests the board can recognize changes in water level.
However, it doesn’t completely rule out a partially restricted air chamber or an incorrect pressure reading during normal operation.
Cleaning the air chamber is still worthwhile.
My next recommendation
Before doing anything else, I’d concentrate on two things: cleaning the air chamber and verifying whether the water valve voltage actually drops when Pause is pressed.
Since you’ve already replaced the control board and lid switch, I wouldn’t recommend buying more parts just yet.
One question: When you measured 120 VAC at J514 after pressing Pause, was the connector still plugged into the board with the valves connected, or had you unplugged J514 and measured directly at the board pins?
That detail will help determine whether we’re looking at an actual energized output or possibly a misleading voltage reading.
One small correction. I did measure the voltage across J514 pins from the connector, connected (probing through the back of the pins) and disconnected (across the stabs).
I’m sorry if these questions seem repetitive I’m just trying narrow down the problem as much as possible
Thanks for clarifying! That helps narrow things down on your GE GUD27ESSM1WW.
Since you measured approximately 120 VAC across J514 pins 1–2 and 1–3 with the connector both plugged in and disconnected, we know voltage is present at those points. However, that doesn’t necessarily mean the control board is supplying power correctly under load.
The important clue is that the washer continues filling even after you press Pause, but stops when you turn the selector dial or shut off power.
Here’s what I’d check next:
Verify voltage at the water inlet valve itself. With the valve connected and water flowing, measure directly across the two terminals of the active solenoid.
Press Pause while watching the meter. If the valve continues receiving approximately 120 VAC, the control circuit is keeping it energized when it should shut off.
If voltage drops to zero but water continues flowing, the inlet valve is mechanically sticking open.
Since you’ve already replaced the control board, checked the pressure hose, and confirmed the pressure-sensing diagnostic responds to rising water levels, I wouldn’t purchase another board just yet.
One thing I’d especially like to know: When you measured J514 with the connector disconnected, were you still getting 120 VAC after pressing Pause, or was that reading only while the washer was calling for water?
That distinction will help us determine whether we’re dealing with a control problem or something in the wiring.
I will try pulling the washer out so I can get behind it to check at the water valves themselves.
I did probe the pins both before a pause, and after pressing pause (light blinking), and still measured 120AC across both sets of pins (selector on tap cold, selector on hot, respectively).
Ok so I checked the water valve from behind, at the pins. Both running and during a pause it measure 120AC across the pins. So there is definitely something keeping the circuit energized.
That’s a very helpful test! You’ve now confirmed something important on your GE GUD27ESSM1WW.
The water inlet valve is receiving 120 VAC even after you press Pause. Since you measured directly at the valve with everything connected, we can rule out a mechanically stuck valve as the reason water continues flowing during Pause.
At this point, I’m leaning toward a control circuit problem, but there are a couple of things I’d like to verify before condemning the replacement board.
Here’s where I’d go next:
Check the control board’s part number. You mentioned installing WH16X27251. I’d verify that this is the correct replacement for your exact model and that any required configuration was completed.
Inspect the J514 connector and wiring. Look for damaged insulation, corrosion, or signs of overheating. Pay particular attention to the wires running between the control board and water valves.
Check the water valve voltage when the selector is turned to Off. You’ve already established that the water stops when you turn the selector. I’d like to confirm that voltage at the valve drops to zero at that moment.
If voltage disappears when you turn the selector to Off but remains at 120 VAC during Pause, that suggests the valve is being energized by the control circuit rather than receiving constant power from a wiring short.
One other thing worth mentioning: Although your pressure sensor responds during diagnostics, that doesn’t necessarily prove the board is interpreting the water-level signal correctly during a normal wash cycle.
My biggest suspicion right now is the control board or its configuration, especially since you’ve already replaced the lid switch and confirmed the pressure-sensing diagnostics respond.
One question: When you press Pause and the light starts blinking, does the washer continue filling at exactly the same rate, or does the water flow change at all?
That will help confirm whether the valve is staying fully energized or whether we’re seeing something unusual in the control circuit.