My washer will fill in the beginning wash cycle and actually wash. But 20 minutes later the washer is still washing and has not advanced through its cycles.
It will only drain if you physically advance it to the last spin cycle. All other cycles in between won’t do anything.
My husband replaced the coupler yesterday because at it had also stopped aggitating and spinning. Now it will aggitate and spin perfectly fine, but just won’t advance.
Dog ears are cheap but that darn timer isn’t: roughly $106.
Help.
Any way out of buying a timer and could this be another problem?:eek:
One additional minor problem: the top of the aggitator does not really move but the bottom portion moves the clothes with great force. From what I read we also need dog ears but they are very cheap.
Hi,
Check the timer to make sure the wire to the timer motor did not come unplugged.
If all the wires to the timer are plugged in and you have power to the timer motor then it sounds like you have a bad timer.
Thanks so much for replying.
I took the two screws out of the top panel last night and everything appeared to be okay. I left it like that until I get home tonight just in case somewhere near had a timer…no one has one…everyone has to order one. I already ordered one from this website for shipment tomorrow.
A repairman today told me that it’s definitely not the lid switch because the washer wouldn’t aggitate at all nor would it spin and drain.
I’ll order a timer and will replace it.
For this type of washing machine, is this difficult to do?
Thanks so much again.
Sherry in Philadelphia, PA
The timer is easy to replace. Push the timer knob in and then turn it counter clockwise until the knob comes off.
The face under the timer will then just slip off and you will then be able to see the two screws that hold the timer in place.
When you say the timer knob, are you referring to the round metal attachment within the timer housing contraption (this is all new to me) kinda to the left? There appears to be a few wiring hook-ups that need to be detached too.
Like all the other connections it appears to be attached to a metal sheet that runs across the entire inside of the control panel. There’s no need for me to remove that then? Hooray!!!
A lot of wires…
By the way, your response time is impeccable.
Thanks so much.
Washer: Kenmore Elite Series
Model: 110.20952992
The timer part I bought from Appliance parts pros came today and I installed in fine and the machine now goes through the cycles like it’s supposed to. But I’m left with two additional problems:
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the long skinny top part of the agitator does not really spin that forcefully so i went out and bought dog ears to replace and cannot access that area to replace the parts. It turns but when it’s filled with clothes it doesn’t look like it’s moving much but when you put your hand in the machine and feel low to the bottom that bottom agitator part is moving very fast and forcefully like it’s supposed to. a) I popped off the cap where the fabric softner goes and then grasped the white cap under that and took that out. Then I see what looks like a square type bolt with a round center. I don’t seem to have anything that can fit that…I need something square to loosen it? I bought the dog ears (APP didn’t have them yesterday) and I’m having problems getting to them in order to replace them. Help!!!
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There is a leak only on the right side of the washing machine. The left side in bone dry but the right side, even from underneath is beginning to look rusty. What do you think this could be? Because the outside of my washer is all connected, how would I check? Tilt and rest the machine against the wall and look underneath?
Thanks for your expertise…I await your response.
Sounds like your pump is leaking.
Generally, you need a 7/16 socket to remove that bolt in the agitator to replace the dogs.
Nat
Here’s a picture of what I’m dealing with. I have a 7/16 but the ratchet doesn’t appear to be long enough to readh down there. And, I’m not quite sure how a 7/16 will help since it’s round and the inside of this bolt is square with a small round inside.
Help!
Inside Agitator.jpg (33.1 KB)
Here is a repair guide for the agitator dogs, but yours does look different then what I have seen before.
http://appliancejunk.com/forums/index.php?topic=105.0
I wonder if it was taken apart before and maybe not put back together the correct way?
If you remove the washer cabinet you and run the washer you should be able to locate the leak.
Ok that’s an OLD one! Use a 3/8 drive with an extention. Should work. nat
Do you think it’s possible the bolt broke? I got this washer used.
If this is the case is there another way to reach it?
Would I have to go from the inside?
You’ll have to get that bolt out. The only other way I know of is to drill it out and replace the bolt too. Without that part off you can’t get the rest of the agitator off either.
Nat
Okay.
I’ll let you know how I make out.
smithlpoole Posted on 9/9/2008 12:42PM that Kenmore washer wasn’t aggitating properly nor was it running through cycles but would spin on the last spin if you turned it there.
Had to change timber, dog ears and coupler.
Now, the washer just stopped running altogether. I was washing on Saturday night and smelled an electrical burning scent but the washer was still washing and finished a load. I put in a second load and it stopped midway through the wash cycle. I had to ring out all of the clothes by hand.
When you turn the dial, you get absolutely nothing not even a noise. The only setting you get a slight noise appears to ONLY be in the wash cycle when it’s turned close to the end of the cycle…it appears to be where or near the cycle when the fabric softner comes in.
Thsi washer is very old and I don’t want to spend a lot more money on it if possible.
My fridge, washer and dryer all at once…who says their not feeling the effects of the economy…I sure as heck am.
Any suggestions?
PS, I would like to add that the bleach dispenser was clogged and water had been leaking on the right side of the washing machine for quite some time before this was discovered. When we changed the coupler, much of the right side underneath the dryer was pretty rusted from so many months of water running on it. I’m wondering if this has anything to do with it.
Most likely the motor was getting moisure from the leak and burned it out. The motor is Part Details - WHIRLPOOL Motor - drive, part number: 8314869.
Nat
Is there anything else that could cause a washer to just stop and not make any sound no matter where you position the dial? Just curious.
It’s not likely to be anything but the motor due to the electrical smell as well. You might also check around for a used motor part number [COLOR=#23578d]8314869[/COLOR].
Nat
