In 2007 I replaced the wigwag because one of the coils was open. Don’t remember which one. The part was purchased at Sears.
Three weeks ago I replaced that 2007 part with one obtained locally because the spin coil was open. This time I ordered from a local supplier. The part look better than the Sears part.
Today, the second wigwag also shows the spin coil open. The part lasted 3 weeks. The local supplier will provide a free replacement, however before I install it…
Could the old timer (not me.. the one in the washer) be generating spikes to overload the coil?
I didn’t see any arc suppressing capacitors or other devices to prevent damage when the timer contacts open the circuit.
In 2007 I replaced the wigwag because one of the coils was open. Don’t remember which one. The part was purchased at Sears.
Three weeks ago I replaced that 2007 part with one obtained locally because the spin coil was open. This time I ordered from a local supplier. The part look better than the Sears part.
Today, the second wigwag also shows the spin coil open. The part lasted 3 weeks. The local supplier will provide a free replacement, however before I install it…
Could the old timer (not me.. the one in the washer) be generating spikes to overload the coil?
I didn’t see any arc suppressing capacitors or other devices to prevent damage when the timer contacts open the circuit.
Should I add some capacitors across the coils?
Perhaps clean the timer contacts?
Thanks in advance. Abel[/quote]
Abel,
First thing you should look for ,
Check the 4 wires that go to the wig wag solenoids.
Make sure the wire insulation has not worn out or cracked,etc.
I’m not a proponent of cleanning timer contacts(now a days) but, cleaning the contacts or replacing the timer could/would be the next step.
Wires going to wigwag look good, although they are under mechanical stress due to the design…
Opened the timer, some of the contacts are reachable, some are much more difficult to gain access. Contacts do show corrosion and metal transference from each other. To be expected from washer age’s.
Besides … the fact that the load is totally inductive is not helping either . Ergo my suggestion of adding a cap to compensate. Going to Radio Shack to look for a cap with a much higher voltage than 110V to absorp the spikes…
[quote=Willing;368619]Thanks Joe for your response.
Wires going to wigwag look good, although they are under mechanical stress due to the design…
Opened the timer, some of the contacts are reachable, some are much more difficult to gain access. Contacts do show corrosion and metal transference from each other. To be expected from washer age’s.
Besides … the fact that the load is totally inductive is not helping either . Ergo my suggestion of adding a cap to compensate. Going to Radio Shack to look for a cap with a much higher voltage than 110V to absorp the spikes…
Thanks again for your help.
Abel[/quote]
Abel,
OK, I guess,
Back in the day, we used to extend the wires 1 or 2 inches to relieve the stress, you described.
I imagine, a capacitor in the solenoid circuit(s) may help, but I don’t count on it solving the problem.
Adding a capacitor across the coils will do absolutely nothing except dissipate power! Washers do not blow out wig wags, power surges do. I would suspect loose of power due to a broken wire.
I have a whirlpool 1976 washer that also blew out the wig wag twice within a month. The second blow out just happened this morning. What did you do to solve the problem in the end?
I have a whirlpool 1976 washer that also blew out the wig wag twice within a month. The second blow out just happened this morning. What did you do to solve the problem in the end?
Thanks in advance
Lawzem[/quote]
Lawzem,
We did not receive and update post from Abel,
So, I can only reccomend you check and extend the wires to the wig wag solenoids, check both solenoids for resistance(closed circuit on rk1 meter setting).and repalce the timer, if all checks are OK.
