Brand: GE
Model Number: WCVH6800J1MS
Main Symptom: Washer stops at rinse cycle
What happens & when: Stops at rinse cycle with every wash cycle
Error Code (if any): No error codes
Parts or tests already tried: Replaced the water pump
Photos / video link:
For GE WCVH6800J1MS, since the drain pump has already been replaced and the washer consistently stops when it reaches rinse, I would shift attention to the cold-water fill circuit before replacing anything else.
The reason is important: the rinse water on this washer is always cold. So a weak/dead cold-water valve (GE WH13X10023 Washer Water Inlet Valve | Genuine OEM Part) or restricted cold supply can let the washer complete the wash portion—especially when warm/hot water is selected—but then stall when it tries to refill for rinse.
Select RINSE & SPIN and start it.
Watch what happens when it attempts to fill:
GE lists WH13X10023 as the water inlet valve for this model.
Turn the washer off and shut off the water.
Remove the cold inlet hose from the back of the washer and inspect the screen inside the valve connection. Mineral deposits can restrict it enough to cause a fill timeout.
Then put the hose into a bucket and briefly open the faucet. You want a strong, unrestricted stream.
Don’t overlook this test just because the washer gets water during the wash portion—the rinse specifically depends on cold water.
If the hot and cold hoses are the same type and long enough, you can temporarily swap the hot and cold supply hoses at the washer.
Run Rinse & Spin again.
If it suddenly fills normally, you’ve isolated the problem to the home’s cold-water supply/hose.
If it still doesn’t fill, the washer’s cold inlet valve circuit becomes the primary suspect.
Live voltage warning: The next test requires measuring line voltage with the washer operating. If you’re not comfortable testing energized equipment, don’t perform it.
During the rinse fill, measure across the two terminals of the cold-water valve coil.
You should see approximately:
120 VAC when the control is commanding cold-water fill.
Interpret it this way:
| Test result during rinse | Diagnosis |
|---|---|
| ~120 VAC but no water | Bad/restricted inlet valve WH13X10023 |
| ~120 VAC and very slow water | Valve/screen/supply restriction |
| 0 VAC | Don’t replace valve yet — check wiring/control/pressure circuit |
| Water fills normally but machine doesn’t recognize fill | Check pressure switch/air chamber/hose |
If cold water enters normally, check the water-level pressure hose.
Unplug the washer and remove the top. Locate the small pressure hose running from the tub/air chamber to the pressure sensor/switch.
Check it for:
A blocked pressure chamber can cause the control to lose track of the water level and stall during the transition into rinse.
Even though the pump is new, verify the washer actually empties the tub quickly before it stalls. This model uses drain pump WH23X10028, and a restriction elsewhere in the drain path can produce the same symptom even with a new pump.
Check the pump filter, tub-to-pump hose, drain hose, and standpipe. GE’s troubleshooting information specifically points to drain-hose restrictions/improper installation when a washer cannot drain correctly.
I’d start with Rinse & Spin and watch the fill.
If it reaches rinse, drains the wash water, and then just sits there without adding water, I’d put WH13X10023 / the cold-water circuit at the top of the list.
If you tell me exactly what it is doing when it stops—water still in tub, tub empty/no refill, or it fills with rinse water but won’t continue—I can narrow it down considerably.
Thank you! Looks like it was probably the cold water inlet valve. Since we never wash with hot water, we just switched the hoses and the leads so now everything is running through the hot water inlet valve and it works great!!! We appreciate you!