The machine agitates just fine,when it comes to the spin cycle the water drains out. I hear a noise but the basket is not spinning. The wate in the clothes remains becuse it is not spinning.
The most likely suspect is a failing clutch, check out this site to see how to access it and replace it.
i when to the web site to review how the clutch assembly comes out. What is puzzelling is how the cabinet comes off after the agitator assembly is removed. Do you have any additional pictures or descriptions to communicate the steps needed to remove the washer cabinet?
Yep, this will show you how
Kenmore top loader blues ‎(SublimeMasterJW’s Appliance Advice)‎
Good luck, let us know if you need more info
I am A little unclear as to how to take the transmission out. Is the clutch connected to the trans. Do you have more descriptive documentation that I can follow? I removed the cabinet put a jumper in place to jumper out the lid switch. I then turn the washer to spin. The motor is running, but does the clutch hub or housing suppose to spin because it is not spinning…
Sure, not a difficult task. These are set up to be serviced. Take off the agitator and then do the following.
-
Take off the two clips that hold the pump to the motor. You can take off the pump from the hoses but be prepared for water to come out.
-
Take the screws out of the clips holding the motor and release the clips. Take off the wire harness from the motor and the connections to the capacitor if they are there (mark what goes where) and pull off the motor.
-
Lay the machine gently on its back. You can now take out the three bolts that hold the transmission on and pull it out. The clutch is attached to the transmission and it will be obvious how to replace it.
Take a look at Richappy’s Sticky at the top of this page for additional details.
In reviewing a technical Whirlpool manuel, it stated that the clutch hub or housing should be spinning during the spin cycle. My washers clutch does not spin but will agitate during the wash cycle. The trouble shooting guide states that if the cluth hub/housing is not spinning during the spin cycle, that the problem is in the gear/trans case… Do you concur?
Yes, but you still want to take off the clutch and make sure it is not the problem, that it is not attached in the correct manner or that somehow the brakes are not the problem. Again, look at Richappy’s Sticky, it really describes the troubleshooting process.
I have the trans mission and cluth assembly out of the mahine. As I rotate the motor coupling one direction , you can see the rod stick out of the gear assembly agitate. When you spin the coupler in the opposite direction the cluth does not move nor does the rod. It appears the problem is in the Trans.. The question that I have is after taking off the C-clip that holds the clutch in place, the clutch will not disengage from the trans.. What am I missing. Am i suppose to pry the clutch from the trans?
There is a retaining rink that you must take off. It is compressed around and under a rim. Given your difficulty you may want to order the Whirlpool Direct Drive Service Manual from APP or another source. It has very good descriptions and photos
I got the clutch off . I am preparing to open the gear case. what should I be looking for and is the gear case fill with oil. If it is what type of oil do I fill it up with? I am in the home stretch
After you remove the C-clip, you also need to remove the retaining ring, which is the small paper-clip thinkness wire ring hanging out under the ridge in the transmission pinion bearing at the top of the transmission. One end of the wire disappears into a small hole in the clutch base plate.
To get it to release, you might want your wife as a third hand. Use two or three screw drivers. With one screwdriver at the “free” end of the wire (just short of it, between the two pinion bearing protrusions nearest the end of the free end of the retaining ring- push it toward the center rod, and up slightly. With a second screw-driver, push the ring toward the center rod at the next gap between next two protrusions. The wire needs to be worked to the middle (into a tighter circle) and out from under the ridges in the pinion bearing. It will then pop out. Once it does release, then you can just lift the clutch off the transmission rod, as it will be free of the pinion bearing.
The response I received from Mesaguy was great… I have removed the clutch..I got the clutch off . I am preparing to open the gear case. what should I be looking for. Worn part, or do I replace everything thats associated with the Neutral drain. What type of oil do I fill it up with? I am in the home stretch
I do not rebuild the transmission, I replace it so I cannot really advise you here except to say that replacing it is what I would recommend if you feel it is the problem. Try just replacing the clutch first.
I had the same problem on an older model GE top loader. It ended up being the tube to the level sensor switch. It was partially clogged and the machine wouldn’t go into the spin cycle because the sensor was telling it there was still water in the drum. I was able to take mine loose and blow through it to remove the clog. Total cost: $0.
On estate washer top loader have replaced clutch and motor coupler still won’t spin. I can here it but just drains water but clothes still dripping