I got the GE side-by-side for free with a broken icemaker. I replaced the icemaker, which now works, but only dispenses crushed ice.
The solenoid that controls the rod to toggle the crushed/cubed ice looks like it had an over-voltage condition and melted the plastic on the solenoid, and it’s no longer functional.
A resistance check verifies an open circuit on the solenoid, which indicates a bad solenoid. However, the voltage supplied to the solenoid is ~10.7 VAC, which is well below the 120V I was expecting. It also does not change when crushed or cubed is selected.
My question is:
Should the voltage to the solenoid be 120VAC?
If the voltage does not change, does this indicate a malfunctioning control panel?
That the voltage melted the solenoid’s plastic would not be from over voltage but is probably due to the solenoid being activated for too long of a time.
When you measured the voltage was the solenoid connected.
If yes try disconnecting one side of it.
Could be the solenoid has a winding to winding short in it and is dropping the voltage. This has probably screwed up the board.
In any case I would leave one side disconnected and tape it up so it cannot short to anything else.
Unfortunately it is does sound like you would need a control board and a solenoid.
A resistance check verifies an open circuit on the solenoid, which indicates a bad solenoid. However, the voltage supplied to the solenoid is ~10.7 VAC, which is well below the 120V I was expecting. It also does not change when crushed or cubed is selected.
My question is:
Should the voltage to the solenoid be 120VAC?
If the voltage does not change, does this indicate a malfunctioning control panel?
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I know this is probably too late to help the original questioner, but I’ll add this as I was working the same or similar issue…
I was replacing a melted solenoid like you. I too saw the low VAC with no load and was about to look into replacing the control board, then decided to check the voltage of the motor control for the ice auger. It was also a low voltage with the motor disconnected. With the motor connected it went to 0 when not on.
So the low voltage is not the issue, and is probably because the digital meters have such high impedance it is detecting leakage in the relay circuit or protection circuit.
Did you make sure to push the ice dispensing lever when checking the cubed/crushed solenoid voltage? You must have ice dispensing lever pushed, the door switch closed and then change the cubed/crushed settings to test the voltage. Mine did goto 120 (from 15V).
It is still possible you have a control issue, if you don’t get the 120v with all ice/door/cubed all on.
