I have a Viking oven model VGIC3656BSS. It was not heating, so I replaced both igniters. After replacing them, only the right side lights up (looking at the oven). I swapped igniters and only the right side still lights, so at least I know both igniters are good. Any idea what could be the problem or at least point me in the right direction.
Do both igniters glow, even though only one burner lights, or does only one igniter glow?
Only one igniter glows, the side that is working. The other side does not, unless I swap sides with the igniters.
Do you have a meter you can test the voltage with to see where it is getting lost at before it reaches the igniter?
I only have a DC voltmeter that I use for my cars. I’m not sure if it will work for this purpose. If not, I could probably borrow one or pick one up at home depot. How should I go about testing?
Well, the power to the igniter comes from the control and the neutral comes through the gas valve. So, we need to determine if we are losing the line voltage or the neutral to the igniter. The easiest way to determine that is to turn the oven on and place one probe of the meter on the igniter wire that does not attach to the gas valve and the other to a known ground, like any metal surface of the range. If you read 120 VAC, the line voltage is good and there is an issue with the neutral line. Once we determine what we are missing, we can search out the exact fault.
I have a cheap 2 prong with a light AC voltage tester. I connected one lead to the igniter wire that did not connect to the gas valve and the other lead to ground, turned on the oven and the test light lit up. So from that, I guess it appears I am getting current to the igniter.
That is correct, so either there is an issue in the neutral wire itself or the gas valve is faulty. I suspect the valve to be bad but we would certainly want to test it before ordering a new one, just to be certain.
Thank you for all of your advice so far. Is there an easy way to test the valve?
Yes, test the wire that has power to each of the wires on the valve. If the valve is open, you will only show voltage from line to one of the neutral wires on the valve.
That is what I saw if I was checking correctly. From what I believe were the 2 neutrals, I only saw voltage from one of them. If I do have to replace the valve, I see the part label on it PB010084 and it is available online for about $125. Is this strictly bolt of/bolt on, or are there any adjustments to be made? I thought I saw something about adjustments on another thread.
If that is the case, the valve is indeed faulty. If you are on NG, there should be no adjustments. I believe that valve is fuel specific so it should come ready to install.
We are on NG, so I’m glad to hear there are no adjustments. The thing that worries me is can get the new valve fairly quickly. Thanksgiving is coming up and I don’t want to deal with the wife if the oven is not fixed by then. LOL. Thanks again for your help.
It shouldn’t be a problem if you order right away.
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/viking-dl-thrm-bi-pb010084-ap5315381.html
Thanks. I will check them out.
You are very welcome, have a great weekend!
I did not realize APP sold this part, it is available below!
Viking PB010084 Dl Thrm Bi-Mtl Gas Ctrl Valve - AppliancePartsPros.com