Refrigerator/Freezer abruptly stopped cooling. After a cursory investigation online and switching thermostat off and then back on to max, fan came on, but no cooling.
Just about a year ago, I used Appliance Parts Pros very successfully to replace both water solenoids. So I’m back at the well trying to buy parts to fix this cooling issue.
Is the compressor warm and vibrating?
[QUOTE=richappy;856858]Is the compressor warm and vibrating?[/QUOTE]
Thankx, Richappy, for your prompt reply! I really appreciate it. The empty fridge is in the kitchen and, because of ongoing painting there, I can’t pull it out from the wall for a couple of days. However, I did recycle the defrost timer before bed last night, and this morning it’s running BUT not cooling. Yesterday and again today, when I felt the back wall of the freezer, it was and is still warm to the touch, so no icing up. I have right this minute turned the temperature control completely off and back on the max. Fan stops and starts running but no unusual sounds, e.g., clicking, from the compressor. The fridge just continues not to cool. Reg Doherty, Suburban Philly at Paoli. P.S. Noticing your location, I’m wearing my Penn State Wrestling T right now. Have a super day.
Either your compressor is vibrating, but not cooling the evaporator, or it is hot and not vibrating. Let us know what you find.
Let me know if you go to beaver stadium for football, I can get you a chicken sandwich, I manage a concession stand there for the knights.
[QUOTE=richappy;856908]Either your compressor is vibrating, but not cooling the evaporator, or it is hot and not vibrating. Let us know what you find.
Let me know if you go to beaver stadium for football, I can get you a chicken sandwich, I manage a concession stand there for the knights.[/QUOTE]
Just got to fridge. Compressor is warm to the touch on top but not vibrating. It feels like it’s running but not doing anything.
Seems like the start device on the side of the compressor failed. If it shakes when rattled or is burnt, order a new one on this site.
[QUOTE=richappy;857113]Seems like the start device on the side of the compressor failed. If it shakes when rattled or is burnt, order a new one on this site.[/QUOTE]
Thankx for your good help. I’ll have to take off the part to shake it. I assume if I shake it and it’s burnt I can smell it, right? Would there be anything else besides this part. After all, the fridge is about 11 years old. The Start Device is @ $45 total and, if there’s something else to order, I’d prefer to order it at the same time to get all done at once. Have a super day! Reg
If you have a small, black plastic ptc device on the side of the compressor, make a picture of the wires going to it.
[QUOTE=richappy;857221]If you have a small, black plastic ptc device on the side of the compressor, make a picture of the wires going to it.[/QUOTE]
Sorry for the delay. Our home is in complete disarray with painters everywhere and in the kitchen, where the fridge is located.
There was a “small, black plastic ptc ??? device on the side of the compressor”. This was held in place by a wire bail. I removed this one-piece part, which, according to the parts catalog should be three separate parts. However, this was just one part, containing all three and solidly welded together.
I shook the part, asked my wife what she heard, and she described it as sounding like “salt in a cellar”. So, I decided to break it open and did, in fact, find burning and small pieces." The wiring harness going to the unit has but two wires, both, if I remember correctly, the same beige/tan color. So polarity isn’t an issue.
The total price of the three pieces, Cover, Overload, and Start Device, at APP is close to $100, without shipping. So, doing a little research on ********, I found what appears to picture the EXACT same thing as I had removed, i.e., a “Genuine Whirlpool Refrigerator Relay Overload Start Capacitor 67005560 W10613606” for $43.90. As this is some $60 difference, I ordered it last night and it has already been shipped. There’s a 14-day return policy, if necessary.
Being a real technophobe, I am at a loss how to send you a picture of the wires. Of course, I have a smarter-than-me-phone [sic] with camera but how-tos elude me to send a pic to you. Sorry about that!
I really appreciate your patience and promptness. Judging by the number of your posts, you’re a real pro. I’m at the far end of that spectrum!
We going to get the fridge moved to the basement today, where, when I get it fixed, we can use as a back-up. This pleases my Italian wife… more fridge to fill up! Tomorrow I’ll have more room to maneuver.
Have a super day. Reg
Looks like you are good to go. With a packaged device, as you said, polarity insensitive for the wires and impossible to burn out the compressor with this device.
[QUOTE=richappy;857311]Looks like you are good to go. With a packaged device, as you said, polarity insensitive for the wires and impossible to burn out the compressor with this device.[/QUOTE]
We’ll see what happens. I’ll keep you posted, Rich and Happy. That’s what richappy means, right? Or how do your friends call you? I deeeeply appreciate your handholding. I think APP is a super organization and I spread the word for all to hear. Reg
Richappy, sorry to have taken so long. Very pressing & unexpected family issues, plus we bought a 21 cf top freezer Maytag as a replacement for this 11-year-old fridge.
Nonetheless, I finally installed the part you suggested and fired it up unemptied about 3 PM today. Just checked and freezer at 9 PM is a solid 0º and 34º lower compartment. Looks good so far. I’ll let it run for a few more days before loading up some food.
However, I do have an issue with our replacement new Maytag, Model M1TXGMYW01 Serial VS32144444 Purchased 140604 Delivered 140613. The freezer will not go down below 10º, even on the very coldest setting. I bought this from Home Depot and complained to them. They called Maytag and they said the normal freezer temperature range is between 0º and 10º.
However, a couple of days before this, Maytag sent out an authorized serviceman, who arrived late for the set appointment, late afternoon, and just gave me a lot of double talk. He was so belligerent, rude, and unlistening that I told him just to leave.
All the info I can find online about top freezer refrigerators say I should be able to keep food in them at 0º. Question: Should I not be able to have this Maytag fridge at 0º at the middle setting? Or should this question is posited in a new thread?
Thankx for your good help. I couldn’t have made this repair without your good guidance, and I appreciate your patience. The replacement part for the old fridge was a combination of just two, not three, difference parts that plugged together without a hitch, and that plugged easily into the compressor straight away. The wiring receptacle on the part, although modified a bit, plugged right in without any modification. It looked like an improved part substitution. Quite frankly, I was surprised.
I wish you an excellent day, Richappy. It’s people like you who make this part source such a great place to shop. Thankx again!
Reg Doherty
For a “normal” freezer, I measured - 20 degrees at the core of the freezer evaporator. Typical freezer temps with cold control at the coldest temp is -9 degrees.
For long term freezer temps for meat storage, I think pro’s quote below zero temps. You have a marginal freezer.
In fact, a good test before buying a used fridg is freezer temps below zero.
Thankx once more. This Maytag is brand new, manufactured May 2013, not used.
Is there anything Maytag/Whirlpool can do to fix this problem? We’ve maxed out the coldest setting. The +10º is a loooong way from a “typical freezer temp with cold control at the coldest temp” of -9º. Of course, this couldn’t have been tested with a model on the sales floor.
Quote my response to the dealer, you fridg will not come down to a safe temperature to preserve meats. Either a bad compressor or refrigerant leak, either one is a serious problem and may get worse!