Brand: Whirlpool / Kitchenaid.
Model Number:YKAWE560WW1
Main Symptom: clunking sound
What happens & when: only during agitation the washer makes a clunking sound.
Trying to load a video but it say won’t support
Clunking only happens during agitation
Have just replaced the drive block. In the past I have replaced dog ears, motor coupling, and the direct drive transmission
Error Code (if any):none
Parts or tests already tried: replaced drive block assembly
Photos / video link:
Thanks for all of that information. Since the clunking only occurs during agitation and you’ve already replaced the drive block, motor coupling, agitator dogs, and even the transmission, we can narrow this down quite a bit.
Even without the video, here are the next things I’d check:
Agitator installation
Remove the fabric softener dispenser and agitator cap.
Make sure the 7/16" agitator bolt is tight.
Try grabbing the agitator and see if you can lift it up and down or rock it side to side. A loose agitator can make a clunk each time the transmission reverses direction.
Inspect the agitator itself
Look closely for cracks around the splined hub or lower agitator where it mounts to the transmission shaft.
Hairline cracks can open up under load and make a clunk during each agitation stroke.
Check the basket for movement
With the washer empty and unplugged, hold the agitator and try moving the inner basket back and forth.
There should be very little independent movement. Excessive play could indicate the basket drive or spin tube is worn, allowing parts to shift during agitation.
Inspect the suspension
Remove the cabinet and inspect all three suspension pads and springs.
If one of the pads has worn through or shifted out of place, the tub can shift and produce a clunk only during agitation.
Look for tub contact
With the cabinet removed, run the washer in agitation.
Watch to see if the tub or motor is contacting the cabinet, base, or any hoses. Sometimes the source of the noise becomes obvious once you can actually see the machine operating.
Is the clunk once every stroke of the agitator, or is it more random?
Does it happen with an empty washer as well as with clothes?
Does the noise come from the bottom of the washer, inside the tub, or the rear?
When you installed the replacement transmission, was it a genuine Whirlpool/OEM transmission or an aftermarket one? I’ve seen some aftermarket gearcases produce noticeably louder agitation than the original.
If you’re able to upload the video to YouTube, Google Drive, Dropbox, or another sharing service and post the link here, I’d be happy to listen to it. Often the sound alone is enough to pinpoint the source on these direct-drive Whirlpool washers.
Thanks Jeffrey.
I’ll send a link shortly to this.
Of course the machine went down just as we were leaving on holidays so it might be a couple days before I post the link
I did notice the agitator bolt rubber washer was ripped up a bit so that could be it as well.
K I think I got the link to Dropbox figured out.
I put a couple videos there I hope this helps identify the issue.
Thanks,
Rory
You need to replace at least the agitator dogs ( Whirlpool 80040 Washer Agitator Dogs | Genuine OEM Part ) or the whole agitator cam kit ( Whirlpool 285811 Washer Agitator Cam Repair Kit | Genuine OEM Part ) If you need directions on how to do this let me know
Thank for the info.
I’ll replace this weekend and update.
I’ve loaded a couple more videos
One thing I noticed is that the tub doesn’t come back to centre very well.
Would that have something to do with the noise?
It sounds like the agitator dog assembly wasn’t the culprit, which is disappointing because I was really hoping that would solve the problem in a cost effective manner. At this point, the only other likely cause is a problem with the transmission (gearcase) ( Whirlpool 3360629 Washer Transmission | Genuine OEM Part ).
While there are some serviceable parts inside the transmission, rebuilding it requires complete disassembly, cleaning out the old grease, replacing worn components, and reassembling it correctly. Because of the time involved and the cost of the individual parts, it’s usually more cost-effective and reliable to replace the entire transmission assembly, especially since a new OEM unit typically comes with a warranty.
Unfortunately, replacing the transmission is a fairly labor-intensive repair. If you decide you’d like to tackle it yourself, I’d be happy to provide step-by-step instructions and let you know what tools you’ll need
Well doing more investigating into why the transmission would have failed so quickly. I did notice when pulling it apart to change the “Drive Block” there was black grease at the top of the “spin shaft” that we needed to clean off
While reading about that it cold be a cause of a failed seal that let water into the transmission?
Yes and water that contains detergent can cause premature failure of the transmission
Thanks Jeff.
Yes could you send me the instructions on how to replace the transmission.
Thanks,
Rory
If you’re comfortable doing the repair yourself, replacing the transmission (gearcase) on your KitchenAid KAWE560WW1 is very doable. Since the transmission has to be removed anyway, I also recommend replacing the **motor coupler (**https://www.appliancepartspros.com/whirlpool-whirlpool-direct-drive-285753a-ap3963893.html) and clutch ( Whirlpool 285785 Washer Clutch Assembly | Genuine OEM Part ) at the same time. They’re inexpensive wear items and can help prevent future repairs. The transmission for your model is part number ( Whirlpool 3360629 Washer Transmission | Genuine OEM Part )
Here’s the basic process:
Unplug the washer and turn off both water supply valves.
Disconnect the fill hoses and drain hose, then pull the washer away from the wall.
Remove the agitator by taking off the fabric softener dispenser (if equipped), removing the agitator cap, and using a 7/16-inch socket to remove the center bolt.
Remove the control console, unplug the lid switch connector, and release the two cabinet clips. Lift the entire cabinet off the base.
Tilt the washer back slightly for easier access underneath.
Remove the two clips holding the drain pump to the motor and slide the pump off without disconnecting the hoses if possible.
Disconnect the motor wiring harness and remove the two motor retaining clips. Pull the motor straight off.
Remove the three 1/2-inch bolts securing the transmission to the tub support.
Pull the transmission straight down and out. The clutch will come off with it.
Transfer the clutch to the new transmission if you’re not replacing it, or install the new clutch.
Slide the new transmission into place, making sure it seats fully, then reinstall the three mounting bolts.
Reinstall the motor, pump, cabinet, agitator, reconnect the lid switch, reconnect the water hoses, and restore power.
Once everything is back together, run a small wash cycle and then a spin cycle to verify that the washer agitates, drains, and spins normally. A complete transmission replacement on this direct-drive design typically takes 1–2 hours for someone with basic hand tools.
If you have any questions or need help with any step please feel free to reach out to me
Jeff thanks for getting back to me so quickly.
I have it pulled apart but I’m unsure where or how to place the tub seal that was suggested.
If you can get back to me asap that would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you
Rory
The tub seal goes into the bottom of the tub. look at the bottom center of the plastic outer basket and you should see a black rubber gasket
Thanks.
I did find it.
I was having issues figuring out how to access it as the break is in the way.
But found a video of how to remove and install the outer tub.
thanks again for all the help!
Well looks like I fixed it no more clunking.
However on the spin cycle now it’s banging around like crazy.
that was it agitating. Did you ensure that the counterbalance spring from bottom of tub assembly to lower frame is attached
I think I I got it.
When I put it back together I didn’t get the tub plate onto the tub suspension pads!
I have to say again. THANK YOU SO MUCH!
Your help and your guys videos are invaluable for us DIYer’s.
glad you figured it out. Thanks
