Can a thermal fuse blow just because it’s old? I recently replaced the heat element and thermostat but did not replace the thermal fuse. After 30 days I now have a blown thermal fuse and at the same the new heat element coil wire is broken. The thermostat still tests okay per ohm meter. I used the “more dry” setting that I don’t normally use when this occurred. Could the old thermal fuse have been too weak or old for the new heat element? I’m replacing the element & t-stat again along w/fuse this time but not sure if I have another problem?
Here your parts incvludes the wiring diagram.
Replacement parts for MAYTAG PYE3200AYW Dryer - Ele | AppliancePartsPros.com
[COLOR=“Blue”]Can a thermal fuse blow just because it’s old?[/COLOR]
Unlikely
[COLOR=“Blue”]
I recently replaced the heat element and thermostat but did not replace the thermal fuse.[/COLOR]
Why did you replace both?
Which thermostat?
[COLOR=“Blue”]After 30 days I now have a blown thermal fuse and at the same the new heat element coil wire is broken.[/COLOR]
If the heating element broke and touched the case, the coil can heat and is not controlled by the thermostats and this can blow the thermal fuse.
You will notice that the thermal fuse (Item 5 in Section 6) comes with a hi-limit thermostat. This is because if the main control thermostat’s (Item 14 in Section 5) contacts weld together causing an overheat condition the hi-limit should have regulated the coil and prevented the fuse from blowing.
[COLOR=“Blue”]The thermostat still tests okay per ohm meter.[/COLOR]
How did you test it? I usually heat the face up with my soldering gun just to be sure the contacts open.
[COLOR=“Blue”]
I used the “more dry” setting that I don’t normally use when this occurred. Could the old thermal fuse have been too weak or old for the new heat element?[/COLOR]
I would doubt this.
Could be just a defective heating element.
I would check/clean both the vent system and the blower wheel and then run the unit disconnected from the vent to ensure you have good air flow.
Also check the seals in the unit. It actually pulls air over the heating element, through the drum so if you have a large air leak it will suck in cold air and cause the unit to run hot.
Check that the lint filter is not coated with fabric softener residue which can reduce air flow through the system.
[COLOR=“Blue”]I’m replacing the element & t-stat again along w/fuse this time but not sure if I have another problem?[/COLOR]
I would replace the heating coil and the thermal fuse along with the hi-limit thermostat.
You could confirm that the heating element broke and blew the fuse by checking the inside of the heater for evidence of it shorting to ground re: an arc/weld mark.
[quote=denman;196199]Here your parts incvludes the wiring diagram.
Replacement parts for MAYTAG PYE3200AYW Dryer - Ele | AppliancePartsPros.com
[COLOR=blue]Can a thermal fuse blow just because it’s old?[/COLOR]
Unlikely
[COLOR=blue]I recently replaced the heat element and thermostat but did not replace the thermal fuse.[/COLOR]
Why did you replace both?
[COLOR=sienna]heat element - replaced because I thought it was old, worn out and not heating well enough and the t-stat because it came with heat element.[/COLOR]
Which thermostat?
[COLOR=sienna]The one mounted right above the heat element, instructions said to replace to it when replacing the element.[/COLOR]
[COLOR=blue]After 30 days I now have a blown thermal fuse and at the same the new heat element coil wire is broken.[/COLOR]
If the heating element broke and touched the case, the coil can heat and is not controlled by the thermostats and this can blow the thermal fuse.
You will notice that the thermal fuse (Item 5 in Section 6) comes with a hi-limit thermostat. This is because if the main control thermostat’s (Item 14 in Section 5) contacts weld together causing an overheat condition the hi-limit should have regulated the coil and prevented the fuse from blowing.
[COLOR=sienna]The heat element wire didn’t appear it touched anything, I just saw it was broken, I will check for weld marks to see if touched.[/COLOR]
[COLOR=blue]The thermostat still tests okay per ohm meter.[/COLOR]
How did you test it? I usually heat the face up with my soldering gun just to be sure the contacts open.
[COLOR=sienna]I didn’t test it right, I just checked for continuity/resistance.[/COLOR]
[COLOR=blue]I used the “more dry” setting that I don’t normally use when this occurred. Could the old thermal fuse have been too weak or old for the new heat element?[/COLOR]
I would doubt this.
Could be just a defective heating element.
I would check/clean both the vent system and the blower wheel and then run the unit disconnected from the vent to ensure you have good air flow.
Also check the seals in the unit. It actually pulls air over the heating element, through the drum so if you have a large air leak it will suck in cold air and cause the unit to run hot.
Check that the lint filter is not coated with fabric softener residue which can reduce air flow through the system.
[COLOR=sienna]I will check the blower, vent is clean[/COLOR]
[COLOR=blue]I’m replacing the element & t-stat again along w/fuse this time but not sure if I have another problem?[/COLOR]
I would replace the heating coil and the thermal fuse along with the hi-limit thermostat.
You could confirm that the heating element broke and blew the fuse by checking the inside of the heater for evidence of it shorting to ground re: an arc/weld mark.[/quote]
I will do as you suggested and thank you very much for the reply. I answered in above in this [COLOR=sienna]color.[/COLOR]