I suspect my panel is shorted but have no data sheet to Ohm out the panel, Would like to ask for some help, and Thanks For Your Help!
Below is a link to the tech sheet.
It is too big to upload here so I had to use a third party site.
Uncheck the Use Our Download Manager and then use the grey button to download it otherwise the site may put software on your computer that you do not want.
Download MDB7709.pdf
Note the 7709 tech sheet is the same as the 6609.
Here are your parts
Thank You sir!
Another question, sorry you have 6609 is the same as the 7709 I have the 6709, the reason I ask is I’m using my fluke set on diode and using the probes as the diagram shows and get no reading at any switch nor with the diode checker either, and when counting the pins left to right is 1-14 on the pins when looking at the side with the pins exposed on the back of the p1??
also on the ribbon are the wp#W10240120 rev.B06/02/10
[COLOR=“Blue”]Another question, sorry you have 6609 is the same as the 7709 I have the 6709,[/COLOR]
Sorry this was a typo, should be “Note the 7709 tech sheet is the same as the 6709”
[COLOR=“Blue”]
the reason I ask is I’m using my fluke set on diode and using the probes as the diagram shows and get no reading at any switch nor with the diode checker either, [/COLOR]
Use the resistance scale.
Before you start short the meter leads together.
This does a couple things.
It checks that the meter is OK
It also shows if there is a zero offset in the meter.
and when counting the pins left to right is 1-14 on the pins when looking at the side with the pins exposed on the back of the p1??
Sorry you lost me here.
Often pin 1 or 0 will have a line printed on the ribbon cable.
Or it may be marked on the plug (an X or something like that).
[COLOR=“Blue”]also on the ribbon are the wp#W10240120 rev.B06/02/10[/COLOR]
Nothing comes up when I search using the above part number.
Most likely this is an in house number. It is used by them to make an assembly but is not available as a separate part.
Ok, Thanks I have used the meter once more as per your instructions, I get no reading on any test its like the whole panel is open I even tried using 0 and counting also in the test as an alternative, no differance. I did find an arrow on the back of the P1 on the extreme left so assuming that as 0 or 1, I also took a picture to clarify my earlier post hope it helps, but confussed on how ALL tests in the Tech sheet would result in all open circuits on every test and not get a single confermation on the info?? Thanks Again for your help.
[COLOR=“Blue”]I did find an arrow on the back of the P1 on the extreme left so assuming that as 0 or 1[/COLOR]
I also would assume that this is pin 1.
Looks like it is a 15 track ribbon cable but with a 14 pin connector.
I would say that pin 0 is the track that is not connected into the connector (left hand side in your picture).
I cannot explain what is going on.
Have you tried reversing the leads on any of the switches you are trying to read?
The unit has diodes in it so polarity is important as the diode has to be forward biased to give you a reading.
Also try using a higher resistance scale (200K).
It would be very very weird for them all to go out at the same time, at least I have never seen it.
Just to take my meter out of the equation I tested it with a 1n34A I had, the meter is working and I did as you requested reversed the leads and tried the 0 pin as first and also as 1 not a sound from the Fluke?? I’m at a loss, but you did see the number on the ribbon cable and I could not find a referance number either sorry to be such trouble.
I also double checked I was making contact at the points I referanced with a paperclip inserted in the end of the P1 and the contact on back meter shows continuity also??
I guess that just because I have never seen it does not mean it could not happen.
Sounds like all the keys on the panel are bad.
All I can suggest is to try replacing the keypad/control panel (item 1 in section 02).
I am sort of worried about this as I think something like a over voltage etc. from the control board would have to of occurred for all the keys to go bad at once.
Note that i did look up the keypad and it looks like a standard bubble type keypad. The only reason I mention this is that it does say that a glass/touch keypad is available. This type of keyboard would not act like a bubble keypad as it is active so must have power going to t.
The above is just a straw that I want to be sure has been eliminated.
Parts for Maytag MDB6709AWW1 Dishwasher - AppliancePartsPros.com
Glazierman,
Did you figure out was was wrong with the Maytag MDB6709AWW1 Dishwasher?
Was is the control board, or the panel… or both?
.
[quote=denman;867015]Below is a link to the tech sheet.
It is too big to upload here so I had to use a third party site.
Uncheck the Use Our Download Manager and then use the grey button to download it otherwise the site may put software on your computer that you do not want.
Download MDB7709.pdf
Note the 7709 tech sheet is the same as the 6609.
Here are your parts[/quote]
Denman,
Hate to intrude on someone else’s *thread, but I’m in a city that has city employees that drive around slapping fines on people if they see a appliance when they drive by, so I need to get some info FAST to fix a machine a neighbor threw out.
Toe-kick with Technical Service info is missing.
Q: Would you happen to know if MDB7709.pdf aka W10142800B / Tech Sheet - W10142800 - Rev C sheet applies to a Maytag Dishwasher Model MDB7609AWS2 ?
(EDIT: MDB7709.pdf is W10142800 (B) dated 2008-12)
APP shows tech sheet as AP4684540 and NOT available.
(EDIT: Mfg part number is W10142800… Found it:
Tech Sheet - W10142800 - Rev C
Revision “C” dated 2011-07
https://s3.amazonaws.com/sm-backend-production-attachments/09001a508020a5f6/Tech%20Sheet%20-%20W10142800%20-%20Rev%20C.pdf)
Additionally, on a MDB7609AWS2 is 16021814 the correct SERVICE MANUAL?
(MDB7609AWS2 = Has Turbidity Sensor, Stainless tub, and door panel- Control panel black plastic, with rectangular black mylar plastic keyboard.. Estimate a 2010 model)
- I will most likely create a thread, and will post what was done to FIX the unit… vs asking for help and never posting back what was done to fix the unit.
MDB7609AWS2 was thrown away by a neighbor who recently bought the house. Them saying they were told by tech the “wiring harness was messed up” and they’d be better off replacing the unit with a new one.
One of the (6) yellow wires where wiring harness connects to Turbidity Sensor was burned… Harness of (6) yellow wires was CUT all the way thru, which means to me while wiring harness was burning.. they took a knife and cut the wiring while is was powered up.
Don’t know if above happened on owners watch or while a “tech” was working on the machine.
Additionally one of the wires that feeds heater coil was cut into.
And the idiots, cut the wiring to fill switch… bypassing that entirely.
Control board “Looks good”, (Nothing burned). No corrosion at control board/ribbon cable.
Upon applying power hear a relay clicking once, and that’s it so far.
(Fill switch is still bypassed… as wiring is “gone”…
Wondering what is the correct keypress(s) to put unit in diagnostic mode, AND what is the process to TEST just the control board, in that IIRC I read that unplugging the control panel (Keyboard) will do some tests.
.
Sorry for not getting back to you sooner but I am no longer an active member of this forum.
I do not know if the two units are the same.
In the past I have uploaded both data sheets on Data File Host site but the MDB7609 now shows that it has malware so I cannot compare the two.
They should be a close match.
Again I apologize for being rather useless to you.
If you still need help try your own post perhaps others on this forum can help.