I get a Sud message, the washer goes through its suds clearing cycle for 5 minutes, then the machine gives me an F35 error and won’t continue. I unplug the machine, hold the start/cancel button, the machine was resetting and washing normally, now it repeats the Sud/F35 errors 5 out of 6 attempts to restart. I pulled out the service manual and found the pressure switch, when I blow into it, I hear a click. Any ideas? Any way to check the switch i.e. check resistance etc. before I replace it( that is if I need to). I appreciate any help I could get. Thank You.
Ed R.,
I think you gave us a bad model number(not listed in tech data lists).
But,if you want to test the pressure switch circuits, this should work :
Disconnect the water level switch harness from the CCU (connector PR6).
Disconnect the air dome hose from the water level switch.
Now,
On the PR6 harness (from the water level switch)
Check for a closed circuit between pin 1 and pin 2 in the connector,(should be and open circuit).
Check for a closed circuit between pin 4 and pin 6 in the connector,(should be a closed circuit).
Attach a hose to the water level switch and blow into it, lightly until you hear a click from the switch,and recheck the circuits.
Re check for a closed circuit in the harness PR6 pin 1 to pin 2(should be an open circuit , still).
Recheck for a closed circuit between pin 4 and pin 6 in the connector,( should be an open circuit, now)
Check for a closed circuit between pin 4 and pin 5 in the connector,( should be a closed circuit).
Check for a closed circuit between pin 4 and pin 3 in the connector,(should be a closed circuit).
If your tests are correct , you’ll need to check the airdome hose and pump for clogs, debris, or detergent, calcium build up causing the switch not to reset properly.
If that is all correct, you’ll need to repalce the CCU(that is not common for this complaint).
Good Luck,
I can’t find the parts that are mentioned in my Maytag 9000. Where is the pressure and water level things? Thanks.
Lauren, We’re not familiar with a Maytag 9000 washer, but if your model number is similar to a MHWE900VJ00 Maytag front load washer, you’ll find the water level switch
[part]AP5264563[/part]
and air tube
[part]AP4310571[/part]
mounted to the right side of the interior cabinet. You’ll need to remove the top panel (three(3) screws across the back, slide the panel to the rear 1 or 2 inches to unlatch the hidden retainers screws and lift to top panel off) from the right side of the machine, you’ll be able to dismount the switch assembly, and disconnect the air hose and wire harness, be careful of the sharp metal edges, and make sure you unplug the power cord before you start anything.
Thank you I found it. The agitating of the cycle was bumping the sensor causing a bad connection. I taped the black hose to the drain hose so it would not get bumped in thx agitation cycle. Thanks so much! Husband wanted me to spend $$$ on a new machine and ours is only 2 years old. THe drain was also full of money and baby socks.
Thank you I found it. The agitating of the cycle was bumping the sensor causing a bad connection. I taped the black hose to the drain hose so it would not get bumped in thx agitation cycle. Thanks so much! Husband wanted me to spend $$$ on a new machine and ours is only 2 years old. THe drain was also full of money and baby socks.
Lauren, Great !! We’re glad it wasn’t anything major, and you’re up and running.
Now you’ll need to remember to check all the pockets, for coins and objects, and watch out for the baby’s clothes. You may want to do them as a separate small or medium sized load, to keep the smaller lighter articles from getting into the drain pump.
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[quote=Joe / APP Team;819399]Lauren, Great !! We’re glad it wasn’t anything major, and you’re up and running.
Now you’ll need to remember to check all the pockets, for coins and objects, and watch out for the baby’s clothes. You may want to do them as a separate small or medium sized load, to keep the smaller lighter articles from getting into the drain pump.[/quote]
Unlandano, We were unable to view or retrieve your post. Could you please repost your question, along with a model number, so we can assist you. Thanks,
Hello,
What are the changes to purchase a new pressure switch but defective?
I have the same issues with this washer, Sud followed by F35, although I replaced the pressure switch with one purchased from a parts store. The switch was sealed in the original bag, I do not think it was a return/open box.
Steps performed so far:
- removed the drain assembly between tub and water pump. Cleaned it and washed it.
- removed the hose between pressure switch and tub. Perfect condition.
- removed from the bottom of the tub the elongated piece of white plastic where the hose from the pressure sensor gets connected to. It is clean and not clogged. Washed it.
- replaced the pressure switch. The new one and old one look identical. None of them click when I blow it them. Should they all make a click when blown in to them? If they don’t, does that mean they are defective?
Not sure what else to do or check. I am about to get another machine, but I would hate to throw this one away; it’s about 4 yo and other than not working 
it’s in perfect condition…
[QUOTE=AdrianL;866076]Hello,
What are the changes to purchase a new pressure switch but defective?
I have the same issues with this washer, Sud followed by F35, although I replaced the pressure switch with one purchased from a parts store. The switch was sealed in the original bag, I do not think it was a return/open box.
Steps performed so far:
- removed the drain assembly between tub and water pump. Cleaned it and washed it.
- removed the hose between pressure switch and tub. Perfect condition.
- removed from the bottom of the tub the elongated piece of white plastic where the hose from the pressure sensor gets connected to. It is clean and not clogged. Washed it.
- replaced the pressure switch. The new one and old one look identical. None of them click when I blow it them. Should they all make a click when blown in to them? If they don’t, does that mean they are defective?
Not sure what else to do or check. I am about to get another machine, but I would hate to throw this one away; it’s about 4 yo and other than not working it’s in perfect condition…[/QUOTE]
Adrian, Check and make sure there are no loose wires or connections at the CCU or water level switch. Under normal situations, everything you’ve done is correct, and should have solved the issue. However, if your washer is equipped with the “steam” option, the issue could be in the steamer control board and a miscommunication error between the CCU and Steamer assembly.
[PART]AP4358763[/PART]
Thanks for the feedback, Joe. I did look at wiring and connections and they all look fine.
As for the steamer assy I had run the test (as shown in the manual), and it returned a YES code on the display.
I will have to check the pressure switch with a voltmeter, as per your post above. I just won’t be able to judge the results as my switch (neither new or old) do not click when I blow in to them. Should they all click?
(((I do not know much about washers, but having a switch act upon the change in air pressure in a tube, when the water level in the tube raises few inches, does not seem a reliable solution, as the air in the tube will barely compress for the little change in the water column.)))
[QUOTE=AdrianL;866211]Thanks for the feedback, Joe. I did look at wiring and connections and they all look fine.
As for the steamer assy I had run the test (as shown in the manual), and it returned a YES code on the display.
I will have to check the pressure switch with a voltmeter, as per your post above. I just won’t be able to judge the results as my switch (neither new or old) do not click when I blow in to them. Should they all click?
(((I do not know much about washers, but having a switch act upon the change in air pressure in a tube, when the water level in the tube raises few inches, does not seem a reliable solution, as the air in the tube will barely compress for the little change in the water column.)))[/QUOTE]
Adrian, The water level switch and air tube has been used for many many years(at least 40 years that I know of) It’s a lot better alternative than the previous timed filled systems. It’s common to all brands and models of washers. It is very dependable and a simple system, once you see it operate.
The only drawback is the condition of the water and detergent usage. Sediment and debris can accumulate in the pump and / or air tube restricting the air flow and allows the washer to overfill or cause other error codes if the air can’t escape from the tube.
Your particular “analog” water level switch, will not make a “noise” when it reaches the full water level. You will need to determine which “pins” to place your meter probes on at the switch, then blow in the connector, slowly and lightly, until you see the meter change resistance from “open” to “closed”. You can damage the switch by blowing too hard into it. Hopefully that’s not the case.