Brand: Subzero Model Number: 532 Main Symptom: won’t cool, relays keep failing What happens & when:
The compressor is an after-market Embraco EM408C (apparently the previous owner had the original replaced). The start relay failed back in February and was replaced. The same symptoms (fan keeps running, freezer cold and freezer compressor fine, fridge warm and compressor never runs) began again this week. I again replaced the relay and protector, but this time the compressor still didn’t start. I had an appliance repairman come out and he diagnosed bad relays (and he also said he can get the compressor to start and it seems to run fine). So that is 3 relays gone bad in a few months, one without ever working to begin with.
What could be going on here? The repairman wants to replace the relays yet again, but I suspect something is causing them to fail, which needs to be addressed first.
One issue is that it’s hard to figure out what the correct relay and protector are. The ones that failed a few months ago were 8EA14C3 (PTC relay) and 4TM742REBYY, both Klixon. The ones I replaced those with are Amazon equivalents that aren’t Klixon. I’m not sure if the problem is that I’m using cheap parts and/or parts with slightly different specs than the originals.
On this type of refrigerator, it’s very important to use OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) parts. While OEM parts are recommended for all appliances, they’re especially important on this model to ensure proper operation and reliability.
If replacing the start relay doesn’t resolve the issue, then the compressor itself may be mechanically locked up and will likely need to be replaced.
It wasn’t my choice to replace the compressor with an after-market compressor; the previous owner did that and I’m stuck with it. It’s been working for more than 7 years.
The compressor is not bad; the repairman was able to get it to run. The question is, what is causing the start relays to fail.
From what I’ve read and found through research, that relay isn’t rated to handle the power requirements of your Sub-Zero refrigerator. As a result, it can overheat and, in some cases, immediately blow the fuse.
The correct replacement parts for your unit are:
Sub-Zero Start Relay – #3210030
Sub-Zero Start Relay Kit – #7006962
Complete Service Kit – #7006959
These parts are specifically designed to handle the higher locked rotor amperage (LRA) of the heavy-duty compressors used in the 500-series Sub-Zero refrigerators, making them the proper and more reliable choice.
I think you missed the part where I said that the compressor is an after-market compressor, not an original Subzero compressor. Whoever replaced the compressor obviously used the correct relays because it was working for years before it started to fail.
While a compressor may start with a new start relay in place, or when using a hard start kit, it is possible that a compressor may be forcing too much current through a start relay when switching from start to run. With that being said, utilizing a start relay such as the OEM start relay can help to ensure that the compressor is utilizing a component designed for “rougher” use. This is due to the device being designed for a compressor used with a bigger appliance in this case. If the start relays continue to fail in the same manner, this would indicate an issue within the compressor where it is causing the start relay to force a switch over to the run winding under more strain than normal. A new relay may be able to get it to start and run for a while, but the capability of the relay would diminish much faster than it should, resulting in a compressor not operating much sooner than one would expect.
Thanks. A new relay did work a few months ago, but then it failed. Since my original post I’ve again tried replacing the start relay and protector, and also the run capacitor. Every time, the protector blows within a couple of seconds of turning the power on. So from your post, it sounds like the compressor was starting to go bad a few months ago and now it’s finally unable to start without drawing so much current that it blows the protector. So I guess it’s time to replace it.
Update: The appliance repairman came back with his own start relay and protector, installed them, and again the protector blew immediately. This time, when he tried to run the compressor with the hard start kit, it made labored sounds and obviously drew way too much current because the overhead lights in the kitchen dimmed. He confirmed that the compressor is bad and needs to be replaced. Will be about $1200 but that’s a lot less than a new SubZero.