My 12 year old Speed Queen washer started leaking during the spin cycle. I took off the front panel and see dripping from the bottom center and based on what I’ve read I assume I need to replace the tub seal.
Using diagram #2, I’ve removed the clothes guard and washtub to try to see what’s going on. The problem is that I’m stuck trying to remove the rubber drive bell seal/splined insert/etc. so that I can then remove what I assume is the hub (pics of my washer here, here, and here).
I’m stuck and not sure how to proceed. How do I get these final pieces off and diagnose the source of my leak?
Did you ever get the drive bell seal off, how did you do it if so?
Thanks,
Jenny
[quote=LeakyWasher;84548]My 12 year old Speed Queen washer started leaking during the spin cycle. I took off the front panel and see dripping from the bottom center and based on what I’ve read I assume I need to replace the tub seal.
Using diagram #2, I’ve removed the clothes guard and washtub to try to see what’s going on. The problem is that I’m stuck trying to remove the rubber drive bell seal/splined insert/etc. so that I can then remove what I assume is the hub (pics of my washer here, here, and here).
I’m stuck and not sure how to proceed. How do I get these final pieces off and diagnose the source of my leak?
I know this is an old thread, but the info may help someone.
I have had to do this twice, once several years ago to put in new tub water seals to prevent water leaking out the center and over the transmission case, once recently when the transmission stared leaking oil out the top end, around the hub seal, under the agitator drive hub then out from under the agitator.
The seal is stepped piece of rubber located underneath the plastic agitator drive hub. It is integral to the thin metal plate that the bottommost step rests on and wraps around the edges of. Do not try to separate the rubber from the metal plate. Pry up between the metal plate against the aluminum basket drive hub underneath (what the basket bolts to). Pry from several locations working your way around the seal working it upward and it will pop loose. The more corrosion, the harder it will be.
After the seal is off, you can remove the nut. I found it easiest to put a wrench on it and tap the wrench handle firmly with a hammer, as there is no way to hold the shaft in place without damaging it. Next the nut retainer can come off. In my case (second time) it had pretty much corroded away.
After that you have to remove the aluminum basket drive hub which the perforated basket bolts to. I got mine off the first time, but this time it the second tome it is stuck fast. It is splined on so has to lift straight up off the shaft. This is where I ran out of time and bought a new washer, but I still have the Speed Queen and will give it another try later.
The tub seal is underneath the aluminum drive hub. You can get a kit that has a new aluminum basket drive hub, plastic agitator drive hub, basket bolts with rubber wahsers, bolt and seal for the top of the plastic hub, and bottom tub seal. That is what I put in a few years ago. It got me another five years or so out of the machine (that, and a belt, brake pads, and assorted part-free fixes.)
The hub removal will probably need a gear puller or possibly make one using 2 long threaded screws with the same thread size as the bolts removed and a piece of iron long enough to reach across the hub. Sometimes you can pop these loose using 2 screwdrivers but it is not likely it will work. If you are going to the trouble of taking this apart to get at the seal you should replace the bearing also. A kit for this work and the necessary parts is 766P3A for most speed Queen machines
