Sears Coldspot 22 - Chest Freezer

I got a Sears Coldspot 22 chest Freezer. It was here im my house before I bought the house, and I think that it must have been installed in the house before they put on an addition to this house on the other side of the wall because I can’t see how they might have gotten this chest freezer in or out of that room…!

Anyway, it’s old but it looks like it’s all there and I want to use it.

[INDENT]1). Where can I find the nessesary serial numbers…?
2). Can I get replacement parts…?
3). The insulation strips along the closable top are intact, but how would I best replace them…?
[/INDENT]What can anybody here tell me about this chest…?

I wonder if there’s anybody in my area [ Zip: 28609 ] who has experiance with this.

Also…
The molded plastic lining on the inside of the hinged top is split but it it not chipped. If I could know which one is the propper epoxy for that formula of plastic, I think that I could fix it.

Anybody…?

The following may help you find the model number.
Model Number Locator

Perhaps also browse the Sears parts site

[COLOR="DarkRed"]1). Where can I find the nessesary serial numbers...?[/COLOR]

See above

[COLOR=“DarkRed”] 2). Can I get replacement parts…?[/COLOR]
Cannot say you need a model number

[COLOR="DarkRed"]3). The insulation strips along the closable top are intact, but how would I best replace them...?[/COLOR]

Again a model number is required. There are sites on the net that sell lengths of various seal types.

[COLOR=“DarkRed”]What can anybody here tell me about this chest…?[/COLOR]
Not much at least from me, hopefully someone else will jump in with some info.

[COLOR=“DarkRed”]Also…
The molded plastic lining on the inside of the hinged top is split but it it not chipped. If I could know which one is the propper epoxy for that formula of plastic, I think that I could fix it.[/COLOR]
There is a tape available that is use for this. It is foil backed with a very sticky backing. You can probably get it at Home Depot etc. Similar to the following
http://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&source=web&cd=4&ved=0CFYQFjAD&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.venturetape.com%2Fpdfs%2Fsellsheets%2F1577CW_2_sellsheet.pdf&rct=j&q=refridgerator%20repair%20tape&ei=BWCXTpiOHuPq0gHcudifBA&usg=AFQjCNFUlmHodjy6J5E7cGzZCAsr1ZzS8A&cad=rja
Won’t look pretty but should do the job.
If you need extra strength use it on both sides of the liner.

Also there are liner repair kits out there but they are expensive.[COLOR=“DarkRed”][/COLOR]

hi. i’m butting in here but i posted a question about my frig yesterday and haven’t recieved an answer. am i posting it right? i’m new to this!

Attn: Denman

With your help I have found the specifications tag and here is my information:

[LIST]

  • Model #: 198.615620
  • Serial #: P-D2711946
  • 1/4 hp
  • 115 v.
  • 60 cy.
  • 4.4 amp
  • test press. 235.140 psi
  • Refrig’t: (-12) 17 oz.[/LIST]Now, maybe you can fill me in on those details, thanx…! :smiley:

Here are your parts
Replacement parts for KENMORE 198615620 | AppliancePartsPros.com

The lid seal is shown and says it is held on with plastic push in rivets.
It also says it is out of stock so you would have to check.

I did go to the Sears parts site and they do say it is still available.

[quote=denman;558050]Here are your parts
Replacement parts for KENMORE 198615620 | AppliancePartsPros.com
[/quote]

Thanx D-Man… you’re cool…! :slight_smile:

One more question for anyone who has the best advice.

Cleaning out the inside…? It’s really kind of funky in there and I know what salminella can do. What cleaner should I use…? I have 409 cleaner. I also have some Tilex cleaner for my shower stall. I have some sudsing ammonia and probably some other standard household stuff like Pine Sol, Comet cleanser, Dawn dish stuff, Oxi-Deep, Clorox and some Oven Cleaner but what’s best for this…? I don’t see how you can rinse the chest configuration very well without a drain plug. It measures 2’-0" wide, 4’-10" long and 2’-6" deep. I got rubber gloves, a bucket and some scrub brushes.

Clean it with Mr. Clean and then I would use bleach, I think Chlorox is bleach.
That should kill any bacteria and some of the smell.

Do not use Oven Cleaner as that will probably eat the plastic.
If in doubt on any cleaner try it in an out of the way place first.

Then put some ground coffee in it on a tray and close the lid and that should help get rid of the funky smell.

That sounds like good advice. I see something that looks like rust stain in there.

I just now plugged it in and guess what… I think it’s working. It makes a “buzzz” sound and the little amber light is on. I put a thermomiter in there and I will wait and see what happens.

Is 409 Cleaner and Mr. Clean the same thing…? I am mostly concerned about how I am going to rinse the cabinet… there is no drain plug that I can find.

I’ll Clorox the sh*t out of it too…! :smiley:

Also… I found this: How To Clean a Refrigerator, Cleaning Out a Refrigerator

Okay…

A few hours later…

Things are looking good here. The thermomiter that I put in there shows zero degrees and I put a small glass of water there and it froze solid.

I’m going to unplug it now and sometime tomorrow I will clean it up and try to vacuum out the coils.

I got a lot done today. I scrubbed out the chest and the top inside. Got rid of some mildew and some rust stain. I shop-vaced the rince water out. Now it smells like a daisey…! I fixed the cracks in the top inside lining with some good old “Gorilla Glue” ( can’t beat that stuff…)

Tomorrow, when the glue is dry, I will touch up where the paint is worn and a little rusted. I bought a 12 oz. airasol spray can of some special stuff made by Rust-Oleum that is made special for white finished household appliances. I got a sand paper block that I will use on those surfaces to prep it for the paint. I bought a new freezer thermomiter for it too.

Soon I will vacuum out the compressor compartment and squirt a little WD-40 all over it.

I am looking into finding somebody who will Powder Coat the three baskets that fit inside. They need it. They’re rusty and will need to be dipped into some solution that will nutralize the rust first. I hope I can find somebody near here who does piece work in Pawder Coating for that.

Pretty soon, I will have a working, sanitary 22 cu.ft. chest freezer… :smiley:

I wonder how old this thing is

An alternative to totally redoing the baskets is the rust is just in a couple areas would be to use dishwasher rack repair vinyl paint.

AP6010552

I did see you asked about lid insulation on another post.
I do not know where this is available but foil back insulation is available at many hardware stores.

Also if the cavity is large enough you could fit in a piece of styrofoam insulation.
I would use the pink or blue. I think these are both closed cell.
The problem with the white is that it is open cell so if condensation/water gets at it it will absorb the water and loose it’s insulation value.

If I can’t find someone to powder coat my baskets I will use your diswasher stuff.

Lowe’s Appliance Parts & Accessories department will get back to me about the insulation soon. I’m waiting for their reply. The old insulation is intact and not broken anywhere but I couldn’t get all of the mildew stain out of it.

Here is some cleaning advice the I got off the Internet that looks to be reliable:

[INDENT][COLOR=royalblue]Cleaning Refrigerator Mold:[/COLOR][/INDENT]

[INDENT][COLOR=royalblue]If you have stuff growing in your fridge—visible, fuzzy stuff—your knee-jerk impulse may be to nuke it with chlorine bleach. And that’ll definitely do the trick, but so will any one of several other methods, all of which are better for your health and the environment than bleach:[/COLOR][/INDENT][INDENT][COLOR=royalblue][/COLOR][/INDENT][INDENT][COLOR=royalblue]Spray undiluted white vinegar onto the mold and let it sit for an hour before wiping it off. Vinegar is acidic enough to kill about 80% of mold species.[/COLOR][/INDENT][INDENT][COLOR=royalblue][/COLOR][/INDENT][INDENT][COLOR=royalblue]Wash the moldy surfaces using a solution of one cup borax to one gallon water. No need to rinse afterward; borax residue left in the fridge will help inhibit future mold growth. [/COLOR][/INDENT][INDENT][COLOR=royalblue][/COLOR][/INDENT][INDENT][COLOR=royalblue]Apply undiluted hydrogen peroxide to the surface and let it sit for 10 minutes before wiping it away. Peroxide not only has antifungal properties, but can also help fade stains left behind by black mold. [/COLOR][/INDENT][INDENT][COLOR=royalblue][/COLOR][/INDENT][INDENT][COLOR=royalblue]Mix a solution of one teaspoon tea tree oil to one cup water and use it to lightly coat the surface after cleaning. This will kill any remaining mold spores and help prevent new ones from propagating in the future.[/COLOR][/INDENT][COLOR=black]I like the “Borax” suggestion to keep mildew under control for the future.[/COLOR]

:slight_smile:

I found someone nearby [ Powder River Technologies, Inc. - Newton, NC ] who will powder coat those three freezer baskets for $20.00 ea. That’s $60.00 total, but they will be rust free and sanitary and that powder coatihg stuff is the most durable thing you could possibly do short of gold plating them…!

The Rust-Oleum spray finish turned out very well.

Looks like I got 22 cu. ft. of freezer for under $100.00…!