Brand: Samsung Model Number: WF42H5200AW/A2 Main Symptom: 4E Code, can’t complete a cycle. What happens & when: After initial fill the washer will pause and make a noise like it’s trying to fill or start spinning, but nothing happens. It throws a 4E code, and makes noise, but nothing happens to move the cycle forward. AI troubleshooting was pointing to the drive stator, but I’m having a hard time wrapping my mind around a burnt out motor after just 10 years. Who knows, could be cheap thin windings unable to handle sustained service.
Error Code (if any): 4E regularly, and one LE code
Parts or tests already tried: Checked inlet supply hoses and supply pressure, all fine. Checked inlet screens, no sediment debris or blockage. Fills fine, but then quits…
Photos / video link:
Symptom video
Actual problem photo. Pressure hose rubbing through on the drum housing over time.
The washer has reached 10 years of age or so, and is beginning to struggle, just like my LG fridge.
Upon further review, I did some more YouTube sleuthing, and this gentleman Hameed from Hameed Appliance Repair in Manitoba Canada led me to the issue. There is a pinhole in my pressure hose after it had rubbed on the drum exterior for 10 years and wore through. It is a poor design, but at least there seems to be a fix. Here is the YouTube link to the specific video. https://youtu.be/eJopz886m8U?si=2MPoNj7LEIXSX_9W
It is worth noting that the AppliancePartsPros.com AI “Max” pointed me to the stator motor part after I described the washer symptoms to it. I questioned it’s reasoning, as the spin cycle was not having a problem, and it mea culpa’d and started over. Glad I didn’t use it’s results.
Alright, I’m back for help. I replaced the pressure sensor hose assembly which had the hole in it, still 4E, and now the pressure switch as well, still 4E. I tested the resistance of both inlet valves, and found normal values. The washer is still throwing a 4E code partway in to the cycle and won’t complete. In the background, it is also making some strange electrical/motor noise that I can’t place.
I was thinking what other components are in this code group, a drain motor? Not really sure where to go next unfortunately.
Since you already found and replaced the damaged pressure hose and then replaced the pressure switch, I would stop chasing the pressure-sensing system for the moment. On the WF42H5200AW/A2, 4E is fundamentally a water-supply/fill error, and Samsung’s troubleshooting also specifically points toward the water valves, their wiring, and control outputs.
The important detail is that an inlet valve can ohm correctly and still be bad. Resistance only tells you the solenoid coil isn’t open or shorted; it doesn’t prove the valve is opening fully and passing enough water.
What I would check next
1. Determine exactly when the 4E occurs.
Run Quick Wash with no clothes and watch/listen closely.
Does it:
Fill normally at the beginning?
Tumble normally afterward?
Drain normally?
Then make the strange buzzing/electrical noise when it tries to refill?
Finally throw 4E?
If that’s the sequence, I’d put the cold-water inlet valve circuit at the top of the list. Rinses depend heavily on cold water. Samsung also requires both hot and cold supplies because its automatic temperature control can call for either supply.
Interestingly, there is a very recent report involving this exact WF42H5200AW and essentially the same progression—pressure hose and pressure switch were addressed but 4E remained. Replacing the cold inlet valve solved it. That’s anecdotal rather than proof, but it fits your symptoms extremely well.
Best test: voltage at the valve
This is the test I’d do before buying anything else.
LIVE POWER TEST — approximately 120 VAC can be present.
Put the washer into a cycle and monitor the suspect inlet-valve coil.
When you hear that strange buzzing/humming and the washer should be filling:
Measure AC voltage directly across the two terminals of the valve coil being commanded.
You are looking for approximately:
120 VAC across the coil
Then use this decision:
What you find
What it means
~120 VAC + strong water flow
Valve/control probably OK; go back toward level sensing/air chamber
~120 VAC + weak/no water
Bad/restricted inlet valve or water supply
0 VAC when it should fill
Wiring/connector or main PCB output problem
Voltage appears intermittently
Check connector/harness and PCB relay/output
Loud buzzing + ~120 VAC + little/no water
Very strong inlet-valve suspect
Before condemning the valve, disconnect the cold supply hose from the washer and run it into a bucket. Make sure you’ve got a strong stream, not merely “there is water.” Also inspect the valve’s inlet screen again.
One thing about that strange motor/electrical noise
Don’t automatically assume you’re hearing the drive motor.
A water valve that’s energized but mechanically stuck or restricted can make a surprisingly loud 60-Hz buzz/hum. The washer sits there waiting for the required water level, the valve buzzes, the level isn’t reached within the allowed time, and eventually the control produces 4E.
That would explain both symptoms with one failure.
If, however, the tub is supposed to be tumbling when the noise occurs and the tub isn’t moving, that’s a different direction. Then I’d investigate the motor/inverter circuit. But I wouldn’t go there solely because of a 4E.
One additional check because the original hose had a hole
Since that hose rubbed through, make sure the air chamber/tub connection at the opposite end of the new pressure hose is completely clear.
Disconnect the hose from the pressure sensor and gently blow toward the tub. It should be unobstructed. Don’t blow into the electronic pressure sensor itself.
A plugged air chamber can give the control an incorrect water-level indication even with a brand-new hose and sensor. Pressure-hose/air-path problems are well documented on this particular model.
My next move: don’t replace another pressure-related part. Catch the machine at the exact moment it makes that strange noise and measure AC voltage across the inlet-valve coil that’s being energized. If you’ve got ~120 VAC there but little/no water entering, I’d replace that valve regardless of its resistance reading.
Ok, first off, thank you for your input. It is much appreciated.
First things first, I verified high pressure flow from my wall outlet, it’s not a matter of supply outside of the washer.
Then I took the top of the machine off and ran the Quick Wash cycle as recommended. I had 117vAC at the valve on my multimeter, and a 60 hz buzz, but no flow. I then jumped at the valve because I had a new one to put in. I replaced the Cold Water Inlet Valve, hooked everything back up and started the washer again on another Cold Quick Wash. When it came to the fill, I got the exact same symptoms as before on the new valve as the old. No flow and a buzz. I tried multiple times, same result.
I have moved to the down stream track. I pulled the hoses on the bottom of the Inlet valve, that go to the detergent bin and and blew into them in the direction of flow. There was a fair amount of back pressure, but I pushed air just fine. The back pressure I felt, I believe is due to the flow going in to the detergent flow dispenser small holes. Next I left the hoses off the outlets of the Cold Water Inlet Valve, and started another cold water Quick Wash cycle with a cup over the valve outlets because I expected flow. Well, I got it. I made a nice mess, but confirmed the valve would allow flow if something downstream wasn’t causing an issue somehow. I pulled the detergent drawer and am currently soaking the top in the sink with hot water, but that seems like a long shot.
I did pull the previously replaced pressure sensor hose off and blow in the direction of the tub as you recommended. Again there was back pressure, but there was flow, and I attributed that to the small hose diameter.
So once more, I am stuck. Any thoughts about the white check valve/diverter valve that is in line from the Cold Water Inlet Valve to the detergent drawer, or the detergent drawer itself?
Did you try checking flow above and below the white check valve? Was there a lot of detergent build up in the dispenser that could be causing a flow issue?
Here is a breakdown of the parts in the check valve.
So I did that today, no flow after the check valve when commanded, flow before the check valve when commanded. I have ordered all 3 parts that you put there.
I watched the check valve ball replacement video, and I saw 2 plastic fingers in the check valve internals on the far flow end.
that when I opened up my check valve, appear to have left the building.
This was allowing the check ball to block the opening with water pressure. I’m speculating this could be due to a pretty high supply pressure flowing from my wall. The machine is a bit older, so it’s had it’s fair share of cycles, so if this is the fix, which seems likely at this point, it would appear that after repeated cycles with the higher pressure slamming the check ball against those fingers, they gave up and are somewhere in my detergent bin top, or the drain of the machine…
Is there a standardized nominal inlet supply pressure range supplied by Samsung?
Last question hopefully before I give good news. I managed to strip the threads from the screw that holds the detergent drawer secured down along the upper side rail of the machine. There are three of these screws, 2 in the front, and the 1 on the side. Can you point me to a replacement on that? Thank you again.
Awesome, thank you Jeffrey_S, I will test my supply pressure.
Please forgive me, but I’m trying to piece together the pics for an answer to my hardware question. It appears that I’m looking for Code No. 6002-001431 based on the HH,+,1,M5 partial pic, can you confirm that? I’m not sure what the long list of hardware is…
The large sheet when I enlarge it has 21 service code w0105’s with 5 that show 3 Qty. I’ve measured the thread pitch at 1.5, but it appears to be a M3.5 tapping screw to me, so a M3.5x1.5, but I don’t see that on the large sheet, or the small sheet, and the HH,+,1,M partial pic I see doesn’t enlarge for me… Sorry to be a pain.
I’m here to report good news, and not so good news. The good news is, the washer is back in business with the check-valve re-assembled, and operating properly. Thank you again for persevering with me through the troubleshooting Jeffrey_S.
The not so good news is that I had to re-assemble the check-valve using the old O-ring Packing ring whatever it’s officially called because what arrived in the shipment from APP’s warehouse in Litchfield Park AZ was a Samsung TV Remote, and not the ordered O-ring Packing ring whatever it’s officially called. I waited an extra day for that 3rd piece of a single part to arrive (who knows why it’s sold separately in 3 or 4 pieces), and I was given a TV remote instead of what I ordered. When I called, I waited 38 minutes on hold to speak to someone, and then they told me the new part wouldn’t ship until Tuesday at the earliest due to the holiday weekend. I asked if shipping could be upgraded due to the mistake and now lengthy delay and the answer was no. Poor. While I realize upgrading shipping would likely eat the cost/profit of the part, it’s the right thing to do when your quality control can’t get an O-ring out the door and replaces it with a TV remote, but that only affects my future business with APP.
Thankfully the old part was re-useable, but if it hadn’t been, I’d still be out a washing machine and this saga has drug on for over 3 weeks with the timing of everything. Less than ideal, but a win is a win, and the washer is back online. Perhaps this thread will provide someone in the same circumstances the right breadcrumbs to follow as this track is definitely not what is common when 4E is researched.
LIVE POWER TEST — approximately 120 VAC can be present.
