Brand: Samsung Model Number: WF364BVBGWR/A2WF364BVBGWR/A2 | Samsung Support CA Main Symptoms: door issues, draining issues, pausing mid-cycle, fill issues
See my original post, where I had issues with the door lock and the machine displaying lock error codes and pausing mid cycle.
I’ve now replaced the door lock assembly. The door error codes have disappeared. After running some short test cycles, I have encountered several further issues.
Test 1 (cold water no spin): Unlocked and started, then paused mid-cycle as water filled half the drum. Took a while to drain from the drum, but never continued the cycle, so I released the emergency drainage and cleaned the filter.
Test 2 (cold water low spin): Unlocked and started, then paused after the first pump of water. nF (no water to fill) error appeared and never stopped. I lifted the standpipe and saw no water draining either.
The machine would not turn off when I pressed the power button for a while. I unplugged the machine and turned it back on, and it has not unlocked since.
What could be the cause of the issue? Should I give up and replace it?
Error Code (if any): nF
Photos / video link: see my original post
Based on what you’ve described, replacing the door lock appears to have fixed the original problem, but you’ve uncovered at least one additional fault. The symptoms point more toward a drainage or control issue than another door lock issue.
Here’s how I would interpret each symptom:
Symptom
Most likely causes
Door errors gone
Door lock replacement successful
Cycle pauses after filling
Washer thinks a condition isn’t being met (draining, water level, or control board)
Slow or no draining
Drain pump, blockage, or pump power issue
nF (No Fill) after already taking in water
Control board becoming confused because water level isn’t changing as expected, pressure sensor issue, or inlet valve problem
Power button unresponsive
Main control board/software crash or shorted component
Door now won’t unlock
Machine believes there is still water inside, failed door lock release command, or control board failure
The biggest concern is the drain system.
Even though you cleaned the filter, I’d still check:
Remove the drain pump completely and inspect the impeller.
Coins
Bobby pins
Fabric
Broken plastic
Make sure the impeller spins with slight magnetic resistance.
Check the hose from the tub to the pump for socks or debris.
If the pump hums but doesn’t move water, it’s probably bad.
If the pump is completely silent, it may not be getting power from the control board.
The pressure sensor is another possibility.
If the pressure switch (water level sensor) or its small rubber hose is clogged:
the washer may think it is already full,
refuse to fill,
refuse to spin,
refuse to unlock,
display strange fill errors.
This is inexpensive and worth checking.
The unresponsive power button is what worries me.
A healthy Samsung washer should shut off immediately.
When the controls freeze until you unplug the machine, that’s often a sign of:
failing main PCB
moisture damage
failing power supply on the board
intermittent short
That symptom is not typical of just a clogged drain.
I would also verify the drain pump electrically.
If you have a multimeter:
Disconnect the pump.
Measure resistance across the pump terminals.
Most Samsung drain pumps measure roughly 15–25 Ω (varies by model). An open circuit or a very low resistance indicates a failed pump.
At this point, I would inspect in this order:
Drain pump impeller.
Tub-to-pump hose.
Drain hose.
Pressure sensor hose.
Drain pump resistance.
Wiring harness to the drain pump.
Main control board.
Should you replace the washer?
That depends on what you find.
If it’s:
Drain pump ($25–60) → definitely repair.
Pressure sensor ($20–40) → repair.
Wiring issue → repair.
If the main PCB has failed after you’ve already replaced the door lock, the economics become less favorable. For an older WF364BVBGWR/A2, a control board can cost $150–300 (if still available), and there’s no guarantee another age-related failure won’t appear soon.
My recommendation
I wouldn’t give up just yet, because the next most likely culprit is the drain pump or its wiring, both of which are relatively inexpensive. However, if you confirm the drain pump and pressure system are working correctly and the machine is still freezing, refusing to power off normally, and locking the door, I’d strongly suspect the main control board. At that point, replacement of the washer is often the more cost-effective choice.
One question that would help narrow it down: When the washer is supposed to drain, do you hear the drain pump humming or making any noise at all, or is it completely silent? That answer will significantly narrow the diagnosis.
Drain pump ($25–60) → definitely repair.