Samsung Washer Pause. Not Working

General
1

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Brand:Samsung
Model Number:WF42H5200AW/A201
Main Symptom:Pause Not Working
What happens & when: Cannot pause any cycle

Error Code (if any): None
Parts or tests already tried: None
Photos / video link: NA

2

Hi servantsfire,

Based on the errors you’re seeing, I’d start by checking the incoming power to the washer.

  • Verify the operating voltage at the outlet and at the washer while it’s running a Boil or Dry cycle. An under-voltage or over-voltage condition can trigger these faults.
  • If the washer is plugged into an extension cord or power strip, plug it directly into a wall outlet. A long extension cord can cause a voltage drop of up to 10V and lead to intermittent errors.

For the communication errors (AE, AE3, AE4, AE5, and AE6), inspect all of the wiring connections between the modules and the main control board. Make sure there are no loose, damaged, or corroded connectors.

  • AE: Check the connections between the main PBA and sub PBA.
  • AE3: Check the connections between the DR Module and the main PBA.
  • AE4: Check the connections between the Wi-Fi Module and the main PBA.
  • AE5: Check the connections between the LCD Module and the main PBA.
  • AE6: Check the connections between the Inverter PBA and the main PBA.

If possible, remove each board and inspect it for any signs of cracked or cold solder joints.

For the bE2 (Switch Error/Main Relay Error):

  • Make sure the Power button isn’t stuck or being held down.
  • Check that none of the other buttons are sticking or pressed continuously.
  • Inspect the control panel for any signs of damage or deformation.
  • If the control panel has been removed before, make sure the screws securing the sub PBA aren’t overtightened, as this can cause the buttons to bind and trigger this error.

If the wiring, solder joints, and power supply all check out and the problem persists, the main control board (Main PBA) is the most likely cause, as it can generate both communication and relay-related faults.

3

I am not seeing any error codes.

4

Service / Diagnostic Mode (For Error Codes)

  • Turn the washer on.
  • Press and hold the Delay Start (Delay End) and Soil Level buttons at the same time until you hear a chime and the display shows all zeros.
  • Press the Soil Level button once until the letter “D” appears to view stored error codes using the jog dial.

Quick Test Mode (For Component Testing)

  • Ensure the washer is completely powered off with a blank display.
  • Simultaneously press and hold the Spin, Soil Level, and Power buttons together for about 3 to 5 seconds.
  • Release the buttons once the mode activates to test features.
5

When trying to get error codes “D” does not come up but I do get “JO” and " “OF”.

When I enter the diagnostic mode to perform a “Quick Spin” test to check the Start/Pause I get " JOOF". Please advise. Thanks.

6

I’ve done some research and come up with a faulty control board. What do you think?

7

Hi ServantsFire. It could be a control board glitch, or the door lock switch may be going bad and not registering that the door is closed. those could be the cause, but they have different symptoms.

  • Bad door switch/door latch sensor: This is the more common issue. If the switch is failing or misaligned, the control board may think the door is still open even when it’s closed. Symptoms include:
    • “Door Open” message stays on.
    • Unit won’t start or stops unexpectedly.
    • Wiggling or firmly closing the door sometimes makes it work.
  • Control board problem: This is less common but possible. If the control board isn’t correctly reading the door switch, it can act as though the door is open even when the switch is working.

A few things you can check:

  1. Inspect the door latch for damage or looseness.
  2. Listen for a solid “click” when the door closes.
  3. Check whether the door switch has continuity with a multimeter (if you’re comfortable doing so).
  4. Look for loose or damaged wiring between the door switch and the control board.