Samsung refrigerator RF323TEDBSR/AA fridge/freezer temperatures constantly fluctuating

Brand:Samsung
Model Number:RF323TEDBSR/AA
Main Symptom:Fridge and freezer too warm- fluctuating temps
What happens & when:

Hi, I have a Samsung refrigerator (2013) #RF323TEDBSR/AA and the fridge/freezer temperatures are constantly fluctuating. I bought 2 sets of thermometers to use in the fridge/freezer because the digital display says they’re both at the temps I set (34° &-2°), but they’re not. Fridge is between 37°-50° & freezer is between -5°-39°.

I noticed that food in the fridge was either going bad sooner than expected or ie: I bought a bagged salad mix and not 24hrs later it was almost completely frozen. The freezer was keeping the solid food frozen, but not soft things like ice cream or keeping the ice from ice maker frozen. (Ice maker works fine, and ice comes out solid) About 1 1/2 months later I found water in & under the crisper drawer, which we used a water leakage and moisture kit w/secondary heater.

We have replaced the following: a kit to keep the evaporator coils from icing up (which included a secondary heater for the top of coils), evaporator fan motor, defrost heater, defrost bimetal thermostat, 2x temperature sensors (1 by the evaporator fan in the cover panel & 1 on the top right of the evaporator coils) which was all behind the evaporator cover panel inside the fridge at the back. It didn’t work.

When I’ve Googled the problem, it now says that I need to change the Electronic control board, Display control board, the inverter board, &/or the Compressor overload protector.

I don’t know what to do. As far as we can tell, the evaporator coils are not freezing up and there’s no water inside the fridge, it’s just the temperature issues with the display not showing the correct temps. The digital display works fine, can use all the features, and throughout everything, there’s not been any error codes. Everything else seems to be working fine as far as we can tell.

One other thing, while I was researching this problem, I saw that one of the indicators of many different issues was if the unit was making noise. Unfortunately, it’s impossible to use this for a way to detect an issue (unless someone can describe a certain noise to listen for?) due to this unit has been extremely noisy since day one. I’ve called and had repair technicians come out 5-6 times when it was under warranty because it was so bad. They all said that it was an unfortunate but normal thing with the newer refrigerator units, and there was nothing that could fix it.

I apologize for the lengthy post ~ just wanted to make sure that all the information was there.

I would greatly appreciate any help with this!

Thank you,

Angel

Error Code (if any): none
Parts or tests already tried: See list in 3rd paragraph in post
Photos / video link: n/a

Based on everything you’ve already replaced, the main control is really the only component left that fits the symptoms. The unit is getting close enough to the set temperature, which rules out the sensors, sealed system, and fans. And since there’s no frost or ice buildup, we can also eliminate the door gaskets as a source of an air leak.

With all of that ruled out, the main control becomes the most likely failure by process of elimination.

To make sure the correct replacement is identified, check the model sticker for a REV number located next to a barcode — that revision number is required to match the proper control board for your unit.

Thank you for replying!

Before I attempt to change the control board (lol!), I have another question.

I told my husband about this forum, and he said that there were error codes that came on right after he replaced the evaporator cover panel. They were for the evaporator fan and the temperature sensor, which I’d just changed. He thought it was an error and erased them. I didn’t see them & he forgot to tell me. So I ran a diagnostic test on the fridge last night and it still shows that the evaporator fan for the error code, but not the temp sensor. I was considering either switching the fan with a replacement or just buying a new one to see if it could be the problem. I was looking for a new one when I saw something on the pics of a more expensive fan that I hadn’t considered. It showed the back side of the fan where it has the details of the fan. I still had the original fan and I decided to see if the info was the same, it wasn’t. I didn’t have the original fan out yet when I bought the parts, but I did verify that it was compatible with my fridge.

I checked the fan that I bought vs the original fan and here’s the info for each:

Original: 12V=DC 0.3A

NEW: 12V=DC 0.16A

I’m not sure if this difference would matter, or if it’s significant enough to cause the error code to come up? I found an OEM evaporator fan that has the exact same volts/amps as the original (it’s actually made by the same company as the original one), and it’ll be delivered Thursday. I won’t be able to change it out until Sunday ~ have to wait until my husband can help. I’m too short to reach the evaporator cover panel. :upside_down_face: Anyway, I’ll let you know if that gets rid of the error code.

I am not discounting your advice. If I had known about the error codes or the difference between the two fans, I would have changed it before posting anything. I do appreciate your time and help. I will definitely consider your recommendation if this doesn’t work.

I’ll let you know what happens after I get it done. Although, it’ll probably be next Monday before I post it. I’ve noticed that it takes about 24hrs for everything to stabilize after being worked on. I don’t know if that’s normal?!?

Thank you again for everything!

Angel

●● I promise ~ no more lengthy posts!!

Hey, sorry it’s taking so long to get back ~ been sick.

Anyway, I changed the new evaporator fan in the fridge & it’s working fine. Did another diagnostic test, and the error code 22 E is still there. My husband and I have been arguing about this ~ when I look up the code thru Google (AI :face_with_steam_from_nose::enraged_face:), it says it’s for fridge. He looks it up on Samsung’s site & it says it’s the freezer. We decided since we’ve already changed most everything in the fridge (except the temp sensors in the damper, the crisper drawer control ~ don’t know what it’s called, and the ice maker in the fridge section), we’re going to change the evap fan motor, bimetal thermostat, and temp sensor in the freezer. At that point I figured the main control board is going to be next.

When you advised that I change the control board, did you mean the main one? Evidently, there’s a few of these things in this fridge ~ go figure! If you could let me know exactly which board you think I should be changing, it would be greatly appreciated.

Also, the main board has a light on it ~ according to Samsung (:face_with_steam_from_nose:) when the light is solid red, which it is, it’s supposed to be good? Don’t know much about these things & weather or not that even matters?

I’m so sorry for another extended post ~ just really frustrated, and would like to have my fridge working again.

Would greatly appreciate any help!

Thank you, Angel

The error 22E is going to be an error for the fresh food evaporator fan. Since this has already been replaced, the main control in the back of the appliance would be the likely cause of failure. There are two ways to ensure you get the correct part number. The best way is to get the part number directly off of the control. There should be a little sticker with a number that starts with something like DA94. Here are two images, one showing where the part number should be on the control, and the other showing the error code.

WilliamM, Thank You for the pics!! I know that the control board was your 1st solution, which I kinda knew it was going to be that in the end, and I truly appreciate your time and help. As I’m sure you’ve noticed, I’ve never done anything like that before. Are there any specific tools I need or is this something that only a professional should do?

We had an appliance technician come out before we began changing everything & he charged $80(+tax) service charge & quoted $800 to change the evap fan & 1 temp sensor~ which it was neither. I’d prefer to do it if it’s possible.

Thank you again for all of your patience and assistance,

Angel

A non-magnetic Phillips screwdriver should be all you need for the job. Before you remove the old control, it’s a good idea to take a clear picture of all the wire connections — that way you’ll have an exact reference when installing the new board.

Other than that, the replacement is pretty much plug-and-play and very doable for a DIYer. If you run into anything that doesn’t look expected, feel free to ask and I’ll help you through it.