Brand: Samsung Dryer (Electric) Model Number: DV56H9100EW/A2 Main Symptom: Display unit does not turn on when pushing power button What happens & when: After a recent load that was < 24 hours ago.
Error Code (if any): No error codes.
Parts or tests already tried: Main PCB board.
Photos / video link:
I found that the input voltage did not show 120V AC on my multi-meter. Additionally, I unplug the two cables (i.e. the brown at CN2 and the black at receptable 1) and tried to measure the voltage across there. That, too, did not show 120V. Only showed 0.
Also this main PCB was replaced about a year ago. It is the DC92-01606D.
Also, I measured the voltage of the electrical cord at panel 3 (where the electrical cord from the wall outlet enters the dryer) and that does read 120V AC. So, I know my wall outlet is on.
So, what other parts could be causing this and needs to be replaced?
This could potentially be an issue with the wire harness, so a continuity check would be a good next step.
Start by unplugging the dryer from the power outlet for safety. Then:
Locate and disconnect the 3-wire connector that was used during your voltage testing.
Using a multimeter set to continuity, test between the blue wire and the brown wire on that connector.
Do you have continuity between those two wires?
Next:
Disconnect the black wire from the motor relay (located next to that same 3-wire connector).
Test that wire for continuity back to the black wire at the terminal block where the power cord connects.
Does the black wire show continuity from the relay to the terminal block?
These checks will help determine whether the issue is within the wiring harness or if we need to look further into it. Let us know what readings you get and we’ll go from there.
I would suggest starting by making sure the duct and venting from the dryer to the outside of the home are clear. Even a partial blockage can cause moist air to back up into the dryer, which can lead to moisture buildup and oxidation over time.
It’s also worth considering whether there could be an air leak into the dryer cabinet, allowing humid air to linger inside.
A couple of quick checks:
Does the dryer feel warmer than normal on the sides or top during operation?
When you take clothes out of the washer, do they feel damper than usual?
If the dryer exterior feels normal, the next thing to look at would be the washer’s spin performance. If clothes aren’t being spun out thoroughly, they’ll carry excess moisture into the dryer. This can lead to longer dry times and increase the amount of moisture inside the dryer—especially if airflow is already restricted.
Thanks. In general, my dryer seems to be performing just fine. I wonder if this is just a single instance of a bad load but I will clean the vents again just to be proactive.
Additionally, do you find it interesting that only a single wire is affected? I would expect other wires to be affected but I see any other sign. I would expect to see parts of the main PCB to be corroded too. But I don’t.
Does the black wire show continuity from the relay to the terminal block?