This started out as a “the clothes are taking a long time to dry” complaint. Dryer will get down to single digits and then add another hour. Taking 3 hours to dry towels.
I first ran the moisture bar test in service mode. It changed state when my fingers touched the bar. Next I moved on to the vent hose. I thought it was probably lint in the vent pipe. Found some, but nothing major. Vacuumed it all out. Went to the roof and cleaned out the roof vent. Slight buildup but nothing major. Ran the dryer and felt good airflow. Ran the vent test and got a CL9 error code.
I then removed the vent hose so the dryer was venting straight into the laundry room w/o any obstruction, ran the vent test again and got the CL9 error. This narrowed the issue down to the dryer and ruled out the vent.
I took the dryer apart and removed lint from the inside. No major buildup. I then opened up the front blower housing, no major buildup. Cleaned it anyway. Then I made sure I could shine a flashlight from the back and see the light at the blower housing. Could see it. Ran a mirror down there as well. Clean and nothing in the pipe or the blower motor area. Ran a vacuum hose all the way through there. If there was a sock or something it would have been sucked up. Vacuumed out the lint filter area. No lint anywhere to be seen, but still getting a CL9 error.
I can see some lint in the holes in the back but nothing major. Most of the holes are open for airflow.
Haven’t done any internal resistance/ohm testing because it was getting late.
The CL9 error is the only error so far.
Thanks in advance for your help.
Error Code (if any): CL9 when doing vent test
Parts or tests already tried: Moisture bar test, Vent test
Photos / video link:
Hi Finnimus, thanks for the detailed breakdown—that level of troubleshooting really helps.
I’m not seeing a CL9 error code listed for this model. Is it possible that the code you’re seeing is actually 9C1? That’s a common misread and it refers to a voltage-related issue.
If it is 9C1, the next step would be to verify the voltage at the terminal block on the back of the dryer. You’ll want to confirm that the unit is receiving a full 240 volts AC across the L1 and L2 connections. An under-voltage condition can definitely cause extended dry times and unexpected cycle behavior.
If the voltage checks out and you’re still getting the code, then the issue is likely with the main control board. Unfortunately, it looks like that part has been discontinued by the manufacturer.
Since airflow has been confirmed as good, the next step would be testing the thermistor, which is responsible for sensing air temperature and helping the control determine if airflow is adequate. This thermistor, linked below, can be tested for resistance after unplugging the dryer power cord—it should measure approximately 238K Ohms at room temperature (around 77°F or 25°C). If the reading is significantly off, the thermistor may need to be replaced.
I pulled everything apart and tested the thermistor. I wasn’t getting anything close to 238k. Did some more reading and multiple sites list the value at 10k ohms at room temp. Mine was reading 9.5k. Tested with a hair dryer and it lowered with heat. It looks like it’s working fine?
I checked the heater coil for continuity. No continuity from top or bottom prong to the heater coil casing. Top prong to middle didn’t beep, but there was a “38” on the screen. Bottom to middle prong indicated no continuity. I pulled the heater duct assembly and the bottom coil had a charred black color compared to the top. On visual inspection there was a break in the bottom coil. I ordered DC93-00154A for overnight shipping from your website. Hopefully this fixes it.
Do you know why I would get a CL9 code and nothing indicating a compromised heater coil? Do you think the CL9 and the heater coil are related or separate? It didn’t look like the coil was blocking air flow.
