roper dyer runs. but heating element doesn’t heat up.. thermostat at element has 119.2 volts.. element reading 9k ohms.thermostat heater 7k ohms:eek:
Did you check them for continuity, with the wires removed from each thermostat & element?
Nat
i know this is an old post but i have the same problem, my roper dryer just stopped heating. I dont have a meter yet, but there is power at the heater terminals. Would a bad thermosata cause the heating elements not to get hot but have power?
All are in a line with each other. so if one of them is OPEN then the heater will not come on. It is designed to shut down in case there is too much lint in the dryer. These safetys keep the dryer from catching fire. You must first fix the problem with the lint and the vent and then replace which ever one is bad. Now their are 2 possibilitys: This guy will die and the dryer will not even run:[ATTACH]497[/ATTACH]
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This dude here is a limit kit:[ATTACH]498[/ATTACH]Pictured on left is the 300 degree limit.This limit mounts on the top of the heater element chamber. Most of the time that is the puppy that dies. The larger one shown on the right mounts on the base of the heater element chamber and is rated for 250 degrees. Both of these come in the kit because both have failed.The element itself could be out as well. If all the safetys check out and the element then most likely it is the timer. The timer on these machines will burn a contact on the inside of the connection marked RH. If you suspect this is it you can test it by removing the heavy red wire from the timer at the point marked RH and check that with a meter against every other connector on the timer. At some point you should get a reading. If not then that puppy is fried.
a kenmore dryer limit kit.jpg (31.9 KB)
ok, i understand, but will there be juice at the heater coil terminals? i checked it with my power tester and there is power at both terminals.
You have a limit problem. Check that limit at the top of the heater element chamber.
there is juice at the terminals, i just dont know how much, im using one of those testers that just lights up if there is a current.
If the dryer is turning with no heat and the tester lights up then unplug the dryer and remove the heater. Inspect it for the break or take it to the parts store and let em check it for you to be sure. they would rather check it than sell you the part. They do not refund electrical stuff. Peeps do not like to buy second hand stuff.
This is on a White-Westinghouse; If the limiter fails, will it prevent the timer motor from running? This in a B&B environment & my housekeeper told me that the control knob on the timer was not advancing, however, if I connect the timer motor direct to power, it does run. Would the limiter be wired in such a fashion as to interrupt power to the timer motor? The igniter lights the flame on start-up but after temp is achieved it never comes back on.
ok well heres an update, i took all my thermostats and fuse to my local appliance parts store and he checked them all, only one was bad. I bought it and went home and replaced it and it STILL!! didnt heat up. The only thing I didnt get checked was the coils themselves, but i removed it and checked it for breaks and there are no breaks, looks brand new. What else can I check?
Gabe72,
Visual inspection does not work with electrical parts. You have to have a simple multimeter and measure the voltage at the heating element (at least one of the wires must be removed from the heating element). It suppose to be 120VAC between each wire and ground, and 240VAC between both wires.
You also have to check the heating element for continuity across both terminals with at least one wire removed from the terminal. If the reading is ∞ then the heating element has to be replaced.
You also have to check the heating element for continuity between each terminal and ground. If the reading is 0 then the heating element has to be replaced.
If you need help with the right part numbers, post the complete model number of the dryer.
Gene.
sho4go,
The first thing I would do is check the exhaust line, the vent outlet and the air ducts inside the dryer for any clog. If you need more help, post the complete model number of the dryer, please.
Gene.
The timer has a leg marked RH. Remove that wire and check for continuity between there and any other leg of the timer. Move the knob slowly and keep checking for continuity. IF you cannot get a reading then the timer is BAD.
Gene, I was able to get the dryer working. I bought a multimeter last night and checked everything. The original cycling thermostat was bad but I replaced that. After checking everything I noticed that I had no 240 readings on the wires going to the dryer from the wall, it was all 120. I checked the breaker and BINGO, one of the double breakers was tripped. I reset it and all was woorking fine. Thanks for all your help and everyone else who gave me input and ideas.
We’re glad you were able to fix it.
Gene.