results of sensor testing

Oven/Range/Cooktop Repair
1

Hello, I tested the sensor and at room temp I read 1.077 Ohms, when preset 350 degres the oven temp only up to 220 and reading is 1.712 Ohms, preset at 450 degres the oven temp only up to 350 and reading is 1.766 Ohms. Do you thing that the problem is the sensor ???

Hi. Actually I program the Oven to a preset heating and when I verify (with manual thermometer) the temperature is not at the preset heat Ex: 250 is really 160…400 is really 340…450 is really 350 and for all theses temp. the heating time cycle stops to confirm that the oven is ready. Only when I preset 500 the oven continue to heat but the temp not up more than 400. Is it the sensor ?
Asked by Ben for Model GJSP84902

Hello Ben. Test the sensor AP3083985 and see if it is bad. It should read around 1100 ohms at room temperature and around 1650 ohms at 350°. You can test this with a multi-meter AP3873826. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. Hope this helps.

Read more: WHIRLPOOL Oven Temperature Sensor Probe, part number: AP3083985
Appliance Parts Pros.com Discount Appliance Parts

2

What kind of reading do you get at room temp?

3

Here is a good link
http://www.applianceaid.com/elecrange.html

Check out 7, 8, 20 and 21

4

[QUOTE=ApplianceJunk;612320]What kind of reading do you get at room temp?[/QUOTE]

1.077 at room temp
1.712 at 220 (preheat to 350)
1.766 at 350 (preheat to 450)

5

Looks like the sensor is toast.
OK at room temperature but way too high once you apply heat to it.

6

[quote=denman;613236]Looks like the sensor is toast.
OK at room temperature but way too high once you apply heat to it.[/quote]

Thank You All guys for your fast and professional support.

7

I bought a new sensor and oven not heating better (low temp) Need help to find the problem.

8

See the attachment for the wiring diagram.

Very weird that the new sensor did not repair ths problem as the resistance readings were not correct.

With the unit coming ready and both elements working all I can think of is that the control board is bad.

Unfortunately it looks like that is obsolete.
GLP84900.pdf (170.0 KB)

9

Is it possible that the hidden (bottom) element work partially OR it is only working or not-working like On-Off switch ?

Yesterday I found that I could ajust the oven temp (-30 to +30 F). I adjust it to +30F and think taht I had little positive result. But preheat is very long and temp is not like programmed.

When I made readings (resistance) with the old sensor, I had to disconnect it before reading because when connect and working, reading was not avaliable. Am I correct to do readings this way or it needs absolutely to be connect and working when reading?

When heating (low temp…under Broil), is it only the bottom element who works or the upper can work if the bottom one is broken ?

(Sorry for my poor Enlish).

10

[COLOR=“DarkRed”]Is it possible that the hidden (bottom) element work partially OR it is only working or not-working like On-Off switch ?[/COLOR]
The element is either full on or off.
One scenario could be if it shorts out at it’s feet to the frame then only part of it may heat up.
[COLOR=“DarkRed”]
But preheat is very long and temp is not like programmed.[/COLOR]
Sorry but I do not understand “temp is not like programmed”
I thought the unit was coming out of preheat but at an actual oven temperature that was lower than it should be.
Is this correct?

[COLOR=“DarkRed”]Am I correct to do readings this way or it needs absolutely to be connect and working when reading?[/COLOR]
Yes the readings should be made with the temperature sensor disconnected.

[COLOR=“DarkRed”]When heating (low temp…under Broil), is it only the bottom element who works or the upper can work if the bottom one is broken ?[/COLOR]
In broil only the top element should heat up.

If the unit does not come out of preheat and the temperature is always low then it could be that the lower element (bake) is shot.