Thanks to you EVO !!! My wife and I were able to replace the broken spring in our SUperba Microwave exactly as you depicted and described. Thanks very much! This is a great website. We will microwave some popcorn in celebration!!
Betten109
I replaced both torsion springs for the third time on my kemc308ksso. Used spring numbers 4452395 and 4452396. door drops open if you do not keep hand on it. Do i ned to go with larger spring? I know i replaced blue tipped spring w/ a blue tipped spring and the other springs thickness visualy loked to match the replacement springs size. What am i doing wrong? The blue spring was the broken spring but then i decidd to go ahead and replace both since i had it open.
Thank you so much for posting these pictures. It made it a very easy fix. KitchenAid should recall these ovens!
Thanks so much for the info. It made replacing this torsion spring faily easy. FYI on the later model combined stainless models, you do not have to pull the microwave out. The screw is able to be reached without removing the microwave.
thanks mr Evo for you info, but replacing the heavy spring torsion model KEMC308KSS03 did not bring it back to the level that was holding the door when it was the original part do you now why???
[QUOTE=selb2223;106067]I replaced both torsion springs for the third time on my kemc308ksso. Used spring numbers 4452395 and 4452396. door drops open if you do not keep hand on it. Do i ned to go with larger spring? I know i replaced blue tipped spring w/ a blue tipped spring and the other springs thickness visualy loked to match the replacement springs size. What am i doing wrong? The blue spring was the broken spring but then i decidd to go ahead and replace both since i had it open.[/QUOTE]
I am glad sorry for you but i have the same problem i replaced the blue one twice and did not hold the door as it was the original do you contact KitchenAid to held with these faulty part, i was told by a tech that the replacement part even heavier are not the same as the original and that Kitchen Aid replaced themechanism due to same problem you and me are experiencing, also the lifespan of these doors are less than 5 yrs.
[QUOTE=betten109;102931]Thanks to you EVO !!! My wife and I were able to replace the broken spring in our SUperba Microwave exactly as you depicted and described. Thanks very much! This is a great website. We will microwave some popcorn in celebration!!
Betten109[/QUOTE]
do you know if the replaced parts were working as the original
[QUOTE=evo;6581]Your welcome, Today I added more info above after I have talked to many people. Your model has the lightweight RH spring and heavy LH spring. If you have problems again and the lightweight spring (or heavy) keeps breaking you can switch both to a medium spring weight.
Well after days of talking with Kitchenaid and Whirlpool this door spring problem is huge. You should tie the two springs together with a tie rap because when they break they almost always break the outer door assy glass, which is over $150 bucks to replace.
All these Kitchenaid Whirlpool models have the same design problems.
Now on to the above mentioned microwave door problem. They have known they have a problem with the spring breaking from within 3 months to at max limit is about 3 years. When they break they most often hit the outer glass which breaks then or later after heat cycling. They have changed the spring number several times over the years and models and the stainless exterior finish models the most. Lots of different tensions and models due to the stainless door is heavier and the brushed aluminum door models is lighter with the white,black and bisket colors being different again.
on a side note,
Trying to get more options out of the same amp draw (for home upgrades without rewiring for higher amp circuit) The oven broiler is very low powered. They try to do a sales rename to make it sound positive by calling it “closed door broiling” but in fact if you broil with low temp with the door closed its NOT broiling but in fact a boiling affect not even a roast or bake which brings out a liver taste in the meat. You also don’t get crispy fat and can never get a rare cook.[/QUOTE]
hello since you seems very informed about the microwave oven why it is not working after replacing the heavy torsion spring as it was in the past, i replaced twice with two different techinician i learned that replaced part are not as the original for model model KEMC308KSS03
Well I was away for awhile and see most was answered. Sorry for the bad advice from Kitchen Aid about using the 4451009 med spring on both sides, guess it was not heavy enough. So there diagram is def wrong for the SS models.
These are the two springs for the SS model.
from post #6
4452396 RH (For SS MDL) heavy spring
4452395 Spring,Torsion LH lightweight spring.
Don’t know maybe your model is different since mine is a different model than yours.
You have to use either, 4452396 RH and 4452395 LH Spring together for mine.
or two 4451009 medium weight. Which the Kitchen aid ordering diagram shows. (but I have not tested just told by K.A. They have been wrong before and have never got back to me as they said they would over 10 times.
Just wait until you have to price the microwave oven light. You can get them online for as little as $1.98 (OSRAM 64405 S) or at schucks for $7 tail light.
I have ordered both door springs for my Whirlpool S/S model KEMC378KSS01 . Can you give me a repair guide for this replacement? thanks, William Watson
A step by step with pictures is given on page 2. With other commenting on additions they have discovered while replacing their springs.
I have a broken original RH spring and have purchased 2 medium weight springs for the replacement. Problem is that the LH and RH springs are wound differently (different bends). The medium weight spring is wound as a RH spring. I cannot understand how to use it as a LH spring.
Hi,
I have a GE JES738WJ microwave from walmart Walmart.com: GE 0.7 Cu. Ft. Capacity Countertop Microwave Oven, JES738WJ: Appliances
The problem is that I’m always woken up at night or in the morning by my housemate opening and closing the microwave door. The main source of noise I believe is when the door latch ‘falls’ into its slot when the door is closed.
Can I remove the spring entirely from the door latch? that way when the door is closed the latch isn’t spring loaded so hopefully it won’t make as much noise.
My other ideas was to take out the door latch entirely. In that case I would have to find another way to keep the door closed, maybe by inserting a small magnet to keep the door closed.
Any other suggestions?
Before I saw this wonderful detailed post my son in law tried to take oven apart and removed a few torx screws which did not loosen anything we needed but when he replaced the upper left one something got loose and now the microwave oven comes on when started but does not cook anything.
Got the springs replaced now due to this great post but now no cooking.
anyone know how this can be fixed?
How do you know left hand from the right hand? Is the j hook that is on the right side a right hand spring?
Mod KBMC140HSS03
SER. XP4807870
PART #(I think) AP3082257 RH
The right hand one had a yellow mark on the spring on the end. Essentially they look identical until you hold them up together and notice the bend in the one is opposite the bend in the other.
[quote=evo;53466]Well still waiting for the recommendation on springs from Kitchen Aid so I replaced the spring with the original number 4452396 RH SS models.
Follow the instructions with the pictures the reverse to reassemble.[/quote]
great pics and appreciate,however, when pulling out the microwave out a little to get the lower screws out of the plastic door frame..the top vent broke..so…as i was tring to get it out it broke real bad.
What do I have to do to get the new one in?
tried prying it but didn’t want to break it again
Any ideas or great pics like last time?
Thanks for posting these excellent instructions! The visuals made a huge difference!
I recently used this excellent post to fix my KA SS microwave torsion spring. Thanks Evo!
I noticed one thing not mentioned on any of the prior posts. When removing the plastic inner panel after the outer door comes off, there are only the 2 screws on the bottom holding it in place. After I repaired the spring and put the door back together, I noticed the bottom of the micro door pulled away slightly from the micro as if it wasn’t anchored somewhere. I saw this during opening and closing of the door. I ended up putting a screw on each side of the plastic inner panel on a small round tab that lined up with a hole on each door hinge (where the torsion spring is anchored) on each side. This fixed the door from having that wobbly unanchored feeling. Did anyone else run into this or did I miss something in reinstalling the plastic door panel?
Thanks, I have noticed the bottom of the door seeming like its hanging loose. There is no attachment by screws for the inner plastic there from the factory. Next time I have it apart I will look for the taps you added screws to. I thought I looked for someplace to add screws but didn’t see anything last time. There really needs something to keep the door together there since the bottom does hang loose. If bad enough it binds when the door closes.