Here is the description of my problem. Please tell me if you can determine the root cause based on the below. Your help is very appreciated
Refrigerator stopped cooling completely. The light is on when the door is open and I can hear the fan in the freezer running. I performed the following steps and below are my observations:
Turned the temperature control all the way to the left to turn off
Fan stopped
After a while, I turned the temperature control on
Fan starts immediately
After a few seconds (10-30 seconds) I hear a click from outside back of the refrigerator. I am assuming some sort of relay
the compressor does not start, however
I continue to hear fan working continuously, but compressor does not seem to run
After a while compressor gets hot (I can still hold my hand on it without burning but it is pretty hot)
[COLOR=#000000][FONT=Tahoma]Turned the temperature control all the way to the left to turn off again[/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#000000][FONT=Tahoma] - Fan stopped immediately[/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#000000][FONT=Tahoma] - After a few minutes (1-3 minutes) I hear the same click as before. [/FONT][/COLOR]
Lets use a multi-meter to test the compressor. First unplug the refrigerator and remove the start relay off of the side of the compressor. Go to the single pin on the compressor and check to one of the pins that are side by side on the compressor. The run winding will read 1-5 ohms resistance. Then stay on the single pin and go to the other pin. The start winding will read 3-11 ohms resistance. If your readings are out of these ranges, then you have a bad compressor. If they are within these ranges, then you have a bad relay overload. Here is a link to the parts diagram. Hope this helps.
Jeff, thank you very much for your advice. I followed your instructions and identified the starter as the source of the problem, ordered and replaced it. Refrigerator is back inservice. The whole repair cost me only $50 and under an hour of time!!
We have now been working on our fading refrigerator since I got home from work at 2pm. We set up the test on the overload relay and the first result was 6.1-7 and the other was within the 3-11 acceptable range.
If only one of the results is out of the target range, is the compressor dead, or could it still be the relay?
Now, Hubby has re-plugged the relay into where it goes on the side of the compressor, and it shot sparks everywhere and glowed. :eek: Even though I am not an electrical kind of person, I know this is not a good thing.
What next? New fridge? (I am not opposed to this, but Hubby is).
Thanks for all the help you have posted for people. That’s awesome.
I followed the diagnosis below and determined I had a bad overload relay because the compressor passed the resistance test. I ordered a new relay (part # 2188829) for my Kenmore refrigerator (model # 106.53232300) and it arrived today. I removed the run capacitor from the old assembly and installed it onto the new overload relay. Then I installed the new assembly on the refrigerator per the instructions. After plugging it in nothing happened with the compressor or the cooling fan but I know its getting power because the lights come on. At least with the old overload relay, the cooling fan would run and the compressor would try to start. Thanks for your help
Hello boilerdude00. What is the part number you ordered for the refrigerator? You will need to check and make sure the relay is wired correctly and the refrigerator is not in defrost cycle. If it is in defrost cycle, the fans and compressor will not run. Based on the model number you provided, AP3885081 is the correct starting device kit. Hope this helps. AP3885081
Helllo Jeff K.
I have this problem with my Kenmore ColdSpot (2000 model year). I read your information to my husband who identified that the overload relay was burnt out.
Thank you for your help!
(Now I just have to find that part).
-mazfla
My overload relay on a Maytag MZD2766GEW was burned and disintegrated into pieces rattling around in the inside of the relay. Can a bad compressor cause this or is the compressor bad? Thanks in advance.
Hello. Usually, the compressor is not bad and the only thing that will need to be replaced is the relay/overload. They tend to break down, or can have a surge and burn up. If the relay is burnt and is rattling, you will need to replace the relay/overload. Hope this helps. AP4009660
[QUOTE=Jeff / APP Team;646258]Hello. Glad we could help!! If you will provide your model number, I can help you find the correct part! Thank you.[/QUOTE]
I have a Cavalier Vending Machine that stopped cooling. My issue is the same as the Original Poster described (Not cooling, Fans running, Compressor hot).
I have possibly isolated my Problem to the Overload Relay but do not know where I could locate one for this Machine.
The Model number of the Vending Machine is: Cavalier C5-225-125.
Hi Jeff K! I just discovered this site, searching the web for answers. I have problems with my amana abl192zfes refrigerator. Yesterday we missed electricity and since then my refrigerator is not getting cold. This is the second time this happen, but last time it was the freezer. Same story we missed electricity. It was under waranty and the service guy came here and changed a fuse or something. It doesnt took over 5-10min to repair. This make me think it was the start relay, but im not sure. Now everything is working fine, the freezer is freezing, light, fan, everything seems to work, but the refrigerator is not getting cold. Could it be the start relay, considering that the freezer is still working? Also, how do you make sure that the start relay is the problem before you replace it? I’ve read a lot of story where ppl did replaced the start replay but doesnt actually solved their problem. I deffinately need your help. Thanks in advance!
Hello Wukillabee. No, if the freezer is working, it is not the relay or overload. You need to check and see if the fan inside the freezer is running. If not, you will need to test for power coming to the motor. If there is power there, replace the fan motor. If the fan is running, you need to check and see if the damper in the fresh food is opening. If not, you will need to replace the damper assembly. You can test this with a multi-meter [AP3873826]. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
Hi Jeff, thank you for the promp reply! Yes the fan in the freezer is working. As for the demper, im not sure. I can push it up a bit. Could it be the defrost? Cold air is not getting to the fresh food but the duct doesn’t seem to be blocked. I removed the back wall in the freezer and saw a lot of frost there. I guess the warm air from the refrigerator is not getting down back to the freezer because the duct is blocked by all that ice/frost. Does it make any sense? Yesterday i removed the frost with a knife and i could feel a bit of fresh air coming to the fresh food. I though the problem was solved but this morning same story. Lot of frost and no cooling to the refrigerator. Any idea?
Yes, It sounds like you may have a defrost problem with the unit. Check and see if there is any frost build up on the back wall of the freezer. If so, you will need to test the defrost heater and the defrost thermostat. They should read closed for continuity when cold. You can test this with a multi-meter [AP3873826]. I will include a link at the end to assist you how to use the multi-meter if needed. If both parts are good, you will need to replace the defrost timer. Once the problem is repaired, you will need to thaw out the ice on the coils before the unit will operate properly. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
Thanks for the lightning fast reply! Alright just a little update. I removed the backwall in the freezer again and cleaned/melted the frost using a heatgun. I can now feel cool air up in the refrigerator, just like yesterday. My fear is that the freezer get stuck with frost again and again… I will follow your recommandation. Can you help me identify the defrost heater, defrost thermostat and defrost timer? I really don’t know how they should look nor where they are located. Thanks!!
Below is 2 links. In one you will look at part number 10 and 14. These are the heater and the thermostat. In the 2nd link look at part number 5. This is the control board which is the timer.
