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Brand: Frigidaire
**Model Number:**FRS26XGCW Main Symptom:draws too many amps on startup What happens & when: This just started to occur. Fridge will trip GFCI outlet, but when plugged into non-GFCI outlet there are no problems. I replaced GFCI outlet with a new one, but fridge will trip new GFCI also. Amperage draw on startup is excessive and approaches 20 amps, but then drops way down after initial start. Am wondering about installing hard start kit? Fridge is currently connected by extension cord to non-GFCI outlet. How do I test compressor for winding failure? Fridge is nearly 30 years old, but would like to extend useful life, if possible. Currently afraid to put a lot of food in there and leave the house for an extended period. Suggestions?
Error Code (if any):
Parts or tests already tried: Replaced GFCI outlet
Photos / video link:
GFCI outlets are there to trip on voltage being present on the neutral side, not for high amp draw. A regular breaker in your house will trip if the amp draw is greater than the breaker is rated for. Somewhere in the refrigerator, voltage is being detected on the neutral side of the line. Putting a start kit will not fix the problem. If possible, take the refrigerator off the GFCI circuit. I know by code that may not be possible, I get it. You also may have a compressor that is going out and is shorting out to the case of the compressor housing.
Oh, and I might add that according to AI, this unit is indeed 30 years old: Your Frigidaire FRS26XGCW with serial number LA52921970 was manufactured in the 29th week of 1995. This is based on the serial number format used by Frigidaire, which indicates the manufacturing year and week.
What you are telling me is that it does not trip the regular breaker on a non-GFCI circuit. Then the refrigerator is not exceeding the breaker rating or it would do it on the non GFCI circuit as well.
Yes, that is correct. This fridge has been in our garage plugged into the same GFCI receptacle since 2009 when we bought a new Samsung. It never tripped the GFCI outlet until about a week ago. I opened the door and the light was off, so I reset the GFCI and the compressor started and then it shut down again after less than 2 seconds. I reset GFCI a second time and it immediately shut down in a split second. I then ran an extension cord from a non-GFCI circuit in the garage, plugged it in and it ran perfectly for several days. My assumption at that point was a weak GFCI receptacle, so I replaced it with a new one, plugged fridge back into it, and it immediately shut the compressor down after a full second. Had a friend come over and test it on startup plugged into the non-GFCI circuit and it was drawing 19.7 amps at the peak and then would immediately drop way down to around 4 amps. He thought maybe a hard start kit would keep it going since it only drew about 4 amps while running. I don’t know anything about that, which is why I’m here asking the question. BTW, the Samsung gave out in 2023 and we replaced it with an LG…fingers crossed.