Brand:Samsung
Model Number:RH29H9000SR/AA REV 11
Main Symptom:Doesn’t turn off after reaching set temperature
What happens & when: Unit is running continuously
Error Code (if any):
Parts or tests already tried:
Photos / video link:
Is the temperature being identified with a separate thermometer? Also, is the temperature being achieved in the fresh food and the freezer sections?
Just realized I responded to email not forum
Replying to my original email with more data points in addition to the information below. All values are degrees F
At 11:30 pm on 7/15
Frig top shelf 28 degrees
Fresh food (veggies) 38
Freezer -8
At 3:40 AM 7/16
Frig 24
Fresh food 34
Freezer -8
I then turned the power off to the frig to see how it held temp till I woke up the next morning. Kind of surprised about the temp rise in freezer.
At 7:15 am 7/16
Frig at 40
Fresh food at 35
Freezer at 24 I figured the freezer would hold better.
I turned the power back on and it is cooling again.
Hope this information helps.
Thanks for your help
It sounds like the main control is not registering the temperature being reached, or there might be an air leak causing the appliance to run continuously. Are there any spots in the freezer where there is ice accumulating near the door? Also, are there any spots in the fresh food section that have sweat on the inside near the doors? Finally, do you have a multimeter available for resistance checks?
No ice is freezer that we recall. Nor moisture in frig. Will need to double check when we get home. Yes I have a multi meter.
Was able to confirm no ice in freezer or moisture in frig. Question. Should I be hearing the fan run. There is not fan noise. I honestly don’t remember if I’ve ever heard it.
The fan can be quiet during operation, and many models have a programming code that will stop the fan when a door is opened. With a thermometer in the fresh food section and the freezer section, keep the doors closed. Unplug the power supply cord and access the main control at the back of the appliance. At the wire connection CN30, disconnect the wires from the main control for testing. There will be a light blue wire (connector pin 3) for the freezer thermistor, and a black wire (connector pin 5) for the fresh food thermistor. Each one would be tested for resistance against the gray wire (connector pin 7), which is the DC common wire. What resistances do you find, and once the resistances are identified, what temperature is each section at? Here is how the connectors would be seen on the main control.
From Pin 3 (light blue) to pin 7 gray was 10.413 milli ohms while temp inside food keeper was 32 degs F. I had to take this reading several times. First reading was 10.382, then it jumped to 15.024 Then 20.xxx Then to 10.413. I repeated this several times and repeated 10.413
From pin 5 (black) to pin 7 gray was 10.386 milli ohms. This reading was repeated several times with no variation.
Were these tests done using the wires on the disconnected wire harness connection or was the test done on the pins of the main control? If it was done using the wires, the freezer and the fresh food thermistors are too far out of what they should be reading, indicating that they have failed.
Freezer thermistor - Samsung DA32-00006R Refrigerator Pantry Temperature Sensor | Genuine OEM Part
Fresh food thermistor - Samsung DA32-10105R Refrigerator Temperature Sensor | Genuine OEM Part
I did the pins on the back of the frig. I’ll repeat the test. The unit of off. Can I do it at room temp?
Pin 3 to 7 reads 5.664 at 64 degrees F
Pin 5 to 7 reads 5.628 at 71 degrees F
Frig is cooling down now and can provide reads if needed. Please let me know.
regards
It looks like the fresh food thermistor (pin 5 wire) is reading the correct resistance at the warmer temperature. The freezer thermistor (pin 3 wire) is about 6 degrees off. It is measuring about 70 degrees. At 64 degrees, it should measure 6.521 Ohms. I would suggest letting the system cool down and taking the resistance measurements again once the freezer is closer to 0 degrees and the fresh food section is closer to 37 degrees. This will identify if the thermistors stay at the same temperature offset (in the case of the fresh food thermistor) or if there is a change in what they measure out.
I let the refrigerator cool down a couple hours with the following results. I didn’t open the doors of the frig before making the measurements and waited till after I measured the resistance before opened the door and took the readings. I also unplugged the frig before removing the back cover. I note this vecauze to the milli ohm reading floating down while I was taking them as I note below
With the freezer at -2 degs F the Blue to grey wire resistance was initially at 32.9, milli ohms, but kept going down. It was 31.9 after about a minute.
The fresh food was at 38 degs F and measured 13.18 milli ohms and also kept going down the longer I measured it.
So I thought because the frig was empty and had been off for a couple days I should let it keep cooling to get the walls cold. So I let it cool for another 5 hours. And I put a couple big bags for frozen veggies in it from our other frig. I was trying to create a stabile environment for when the testing was taking place.
With the freezer at -8 degrees F the blue to grey wires measured 37.333 Milli ohms. But again the number started dropping. About the same rate as before.
With the fresh food at 27.5 deg’s F the black to grey wires measured 15.885 milli ohms. That number also started to raise and longer I measured it
PS: For the second set of data points I also raised the set points of the freezer to 5 degs F and frig to 43 degs F for the additional 5 hours to see if it would cycle off. The refrigerator kept running the complete time. So no obvious difference.
Hope this data makes sense.
Regards
For the sensors to be measuring in milliohms, both sensors are severely out of tolerance. Replacing them would very likely correct the issue.
My bad. When the meter is not connected it says M ohms. Then I checked the wires again it is in K ohms.
But I still don’t understand why the number is dropping while I test it. Is the refrigerator supposed to be to be running when I’m testing it? I’ve always had it unplugged.
Also this mornings readings are.
Blue to grey wire resistance 26.9 k ohms freezer temp was -4 degs F
Black to grey wire resistance 13.0 k ohms. Fresh food area was 30 degs F. These were taken while the frig had been off for approximately 30 minutes. And they were still dropping as I was measuring.
Based on the resistances, the freezer thermistor is reading 3 degrees while the fresh food thermistor is reading around 32-33 degrees. The freezer thermistor is out of tolerance by being 7 degrees off, but it should not be causing the system to continuously call for cold air. The most likely issue is a failure with the main control, and the freezer thermistor is a secondary failure.
Main control - Samsung DA92-00805A Refrigerator Main Control Board Assembly | Genuine OEM Part
Freezer thermistor - Samsung DA32-00006R Refrigerator Pantry Temperature Sensor | Genuine OEM Part
How hard is it to change the main control board? Also, I put the frig on a timer last night. Two hours on and two hours off. Is it hard on the unit to do this till I get the new parts?
thanks
Changing the main control is not difficult as it is essentially a plug-and-play part. As far as setting it on a timer for that amount of time, I don’t think it would be an issue, but I couldn’t guarantee it.
I have an update and a couple more questions.
The thermistor was available and I installed it yesterday. That did help the freezer compartment control. It is set to 0 and it maintains 0. But the main problem of not shutting off still exist. The control board is on back order and last I heard it will be shipped to appliancepartpro on Oct 1st. So we won’t have it for about 10 weeks. So we are considering other options. I previously said we were controlling the temp using a timer. Running the unit for 2 hours and off for 2. In general that is working. But is this a good thing to be doing for 2 1/2 months? Are we hurting the unit by doing this. If we are it’s an easier decision of getting a new frig. If we are not harming the frig maybe we wait for the new part.
Any thoughts on this or other suggestions? If we get a new frig we are considering putting in the new control board and selling the frig. It’s in too good of condition to scrap in our opinion.
Thanks
I would not be able to say if running the appliance timed like that would be ok or not. Theoretically, it should be ok as far as the sealed system is concerned. However, I could not guarantee that it doesn’t have the potential to cause other issues as anything is possible.