There is occasionally (more frequent day by day) a clicking noise from the rear of the refrigerator. It sounds to me as a relay trying to kick in. It will make the noise for awhile (usually after door opening/closing) and then quit. During theses episodes, the temp displays will either not show or blink.
Any help appreciated.
THANX!
Check your model #
[B]PDS20MCRBB
[/B]Serial No. MG051153
Remove the motherboard cover in the back, if it’s the motherboard clicking, replace it as it will eventually fail AP4436216
thanx!
[quote=KULTULZ;633875]
thanx![/quote]
hello - did this work for you ? I have the same issue, same fridge, and almost the same serial # !! Let me know - thanks !
[quote=Anna’s Mom;653830]
hello - did this work for you ? I have the same issue, same fridge, and almost the same serial # !! Let me know - thanks ![/quote]
Mom…
Mine suddenly stopped making the noise so I have not replace the board (I’m cheap).
With my luck it will ignite leading to a meltdown destroying half of the neighborhood… 
Say HI! to Anna for me… 
If you can’t afford a new board, I would locate the clicking relay by fealing each one, the big one is the compressor relay, the small one, the defrost. Then remove the cover with sharp wood chisel, then try to clean the contacts with fine emory paper, or just order a new one. Flush the relay out with non-residue contact cleaner available at Wall Mart.
[quote=KULTULZ;654330]
Mine suddenly stopped making the noise so I have not replace the board (I’m cheap).
With my luck it will ignite leading to a meltdown destroying half of the neighborhood… :([/quote]
OK… I ignored the warning signs and advice. The noise returned but not as loud. Chose to ignore (another intelligent move). The freezer is still holding temp but the upper section is warm and showing fifty degrees…
Could this be as a result of the board failure or has the damage progressed?
[quote=richappy;633734]
Remove the motherboard cover in the back, if it’s the motherboard clicking, replace it as it will eventually fail AP4436216[/quote]
This seems to be the case. Is this replacement Part No Genuine GE? The character sequence seems to be different from GE Service Parts.
That is this site’s proprietary part #.
[quote=richappy;686148]
That is this site’s proprietary part #.[/quote]
Is it a direct GE Service Part or a generic replacement?
It should be a GE part, just ask befor ordering.
[B]PDS20MCRBB
[/B]Serial No. [B]MG051153
[/B]OK, I replaced the GE control board and now have the temp displays and the bottom freezer section works but no cooling to the refrigerator section. What did I allow to burnout now as a result of not replacing the board when I should have?
The condenser fan is working.
Is the compressor cold, or warm and vibrating?
[quote=richappy;691556]
Is the compressor cold, or warm and vibrating?[/quote]
When I removed the machine compartment access cover as directed in STEP 4 of the instruction sheet (power off), I found the compressor to be warm to the touch while performing dust patrol. I reinstalled the cover without checking operating touch temp. I will if you think necessary.
BTW- The refrigerator is now in continuous run mode and the freezer compartment is at correct (or set) temp. The refrig section is @ room temp.
THANX!
These compressors, GE ,are low hp units, they take longer to chill the box down.
[quote=richappy;691713]
These compressors, GE ,are low hp units, they take longer to chill the box down.[/quote]
But over 24hrs? I finally unplugged it as I feared it would damage something else running @ full speed. I followed that instruction sheet exactly (I hope) and there were no wires to cut @ J1 or was there a capacitor @ the power cord entry.
I have this strange feeling I have done something wrong.
So your advice is to let it run?
[B]AGAIN THANX!
PS[/B]- (French For I Forgot)
[quote]But over 24hrs? I finally unplugged it as I feared it would damage something else running @ full speed. [/quote]I did not post this on the above post. My oversight. I plugged her back in at about 1500hrs yesterday and you see the post time (0200). When I checked it again this morning, it (refrig- not freezer) was # -1 and the box @ 70.
Did you check the model # prefix to see if you have to cut any thermistor wires? If ok, they may have shipped you a bad board as your damper door is apparently not working. If closed, plug in the old motherboard and see if the damper door now works.
[quote=richappy;691782]
Did you check the model # prefix to see if you have to cut any thermistor wires? If ok, they may have shipped you a bad board as your damper door is apparently not working. If closed, plug in the old motherboard and see if the damper door now works.[/quote]
Yes. There was no wire in Pin2 of the J1 connector (Step 2). Instructions read to proceed to Step 3- Install New Main Board.
Step 4- Cut Green Wire In Capacitor Board (Note- Only applicable for BOTTOM FREEZER models)
[quote][LIST]
[quote][LIST]
This was the same failure mode after the board stopped making clicking sounds. It went for a few weeks and the refrig section began not cooling properly.
…that this refrig had a damper door asm go bad and caused the resultant clicking from the control board? I did not (like a moron) confirm which component was making the clicking noise on the board. I simply replaced it after total failure.
While looking at the original board, it appears that there is a burn spot on a paper tag attached to the ground wire (GREEN). It appears the burn spot could have been against Component # C30 (?) or a component beneath it marked 30H-2003 DCGM 0414C.
Is it also possible the replacement board is defective? Where would one find the diagnostic sequence to identify, in the Repair Manual?