I have a Whirlpool model ed5phexmq00 it stop cooling so i watch the vedia it said to disconnect it and i did. When i connect it, it began to work but i notice the fan kept coming on and off in a short amount of time. Now the refrigerator is not working again so i have disconnect so i am wondering what wrong with it.
Steve,
Which fan only runs for a little while, the fan in back, or the fan inside the freezer ?
Can you hear or feel the compressor running , or does it click and shut off ?
This will help to get an idea of where to start.
Thanks,
Hi Joe,
I took out the rear cover and this is what i see the fan at the bottom rear of the refrigerator is cutting on and off. i plug the refregirator it come on and turn right of then it would come back on and cut off again. i have disconnect it since this morning. I can’t tell if the fan in the freezer is coming on. i have connect the refrigerator for at least an hour and the fan in the back is not coming on. i open the freezer i here a fan i dont know if the same fan from the botton that came on. i just open the freezer and i here nothing. i dont think i hear the compressor come on. Hope this information help. Thanks
Hi,
You need a new defroster board. I had the same problem. Whirlpool has a bulletin out indicating that these models have defective defroster boards.
[quote=Stevems;434810]Hi Joe,
I took out the rear cover and this is what i see the fan at the bottom rear of the refrigerator is cutting on and off. i plug the refregirator it come on and turn right of then it would come back on and cut off again. i have disconnect it since this morning. I can’t tell if the fan in the freezer is coming on. i have connect the refrigerator for at least an hour and the fan in the back is not coming on. i open the freezer i here a fan i dont know if the same fan from the botton that came on. i just open the freezer and i here nothing. i dont think i hear the compressor come on. Hope this information help. Thanks[/quote]
Steve,
Thanks for the information,
You will most likely need an ADC board,
It is located , inside the control panel assembly,inside the refrigerator compartment. Some of the boards, were susceptible to EMI and voltage problems.
Thanks, to Debbie for her input.
Good Luck,
Hello Joe
I have replace the Board and the refrigerator is still not working it’s hotter than hot. What else do you think the problem may be.
Thanks
Steve
Do you hear a click at the compressor every time it shuts down? If so, you have problems with the compressor.
[quote=Stevems;445564]Hello Joe
I have replace the Board and the refrigerator is still not working it’s hotter than hot. What else do you think the problem may be.
Thanks
Steve[/quote]
Steve,
You did follow the instruction sheet that came with the new ADC control board, didn’t you ?
It looks like Rich, could be right, and we’ll need to run a voltage check at the condenser fan and the compressor,and maybe the new ADC board.
You’re going to need a multi meter, to check for voltage(s).
The wiring diagram, I have for your refrigerator, indicates that the red wire at the the condenser fan motor and the compressor overload relay, are the 120 VAC power supply from the new ADC board.
You should remove the overload relay cover off the side of the compressor, while the fridge power cord is unplugged.
You’ll need to do 2 checks on each component, these will be voltage tests, so be carefull.
Leave all the wires connected, and make sure the refrigerator control is set so the fridge is in a cooling mode.
From the red wire on the condenser fan motor, to chassis ground(bare metal of the frame) you should read 120 VAC, then check the white wire to chassis ground for the same.
You’ll do the same voltage check at the compressor, the red wire on the overload is power in (120 VAC) to chassis ground. The white wire to the chassis ground, should be the power out, through the motor windings and PTC relay, If you have low or no voltage at the components, that would indicate a broken or loose connection, or “bad” new ADC board. We may have to go up to the new board and check that for voltages there.
No 120 VAC on the white wire at the compressor, would indicate a bad PTC relay or an open winding in the compressor motor, That will be the next test,
Let us know what you find, and we can move on from there.
iF the compressor is bad how do you recharge aor replace it.
I would just order a new start device for this AP3885081, comes with complete wiring info dependent on your serial #
Based on the syptoms, that is the most probable problem.
If you have a meter, you could verify voltage to the two pin connector going to it to confirm it’s getting voltage. Your condensing motor going off and on is probably due to the compressor klixon going off and on.