just received new infinite switch from appliance pros and does not work. whirlpool model number WFE505W0JZO, part ordered WPW10434452. it is for dual element, part looks the same but does not heat the burner. the old switch heats the burner but a medium heat does not go away after your turn off. is this new switch plug and play? there is a hexagon hole under the switch maybe i need to turn it.
Hi Davy5,
Can you send the model number of the unit? The model number will help us identify the exact components used in your appliance and provide more accurate troubleshooting steps. It’s usually located on a sticker or data plate inside the door, behind the kick plate, or on the side wall of the cabinet, depending on the appliance type. Once you post the model number, we can help you narrow down the problem.
For model WFE505W0JZ0, have you verified that the range is receiving proper power and that power is reaching the surface element switch?
Typically, the infinite switch does not require adjustment except for minor surface element temperature calibration.
To test the switch:
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Verify that the correct voltage is present at the switch input terminals.
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Check for proper voltage leaving the switch when it is turned on.
Diagnosis:
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If proper voltage is present at the switch and proper voltage is leaving the switch, the problem is likely the surface element (burner) or the wiring between the switch and the element.
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If proper voltage is reaching the switch but no voltage is leaving the switch when it is turned on, the switch is defective and should be replaced.
Warning: Electric ranges use 240 volts, which can cause serious injury or death. If you’re not comfortable using a multimeter on live voltage, disconnect power and contact a qualified technician.
What You’ll Need
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Multimeter set to AC Volts (VAC), preferably a 250V or higher range.
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Access to the infinite switch behind the control panel.
1. Verify Voltage to the Switch
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Turn the breaker ON.
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Remove the back panel to access the surface element switch.
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Locate the switch terminals. Most Whirlpool switches have L1 and L2 (power in).
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Place one meter lead on L1 and the other on L2.
Expected reading: Approximately 240 VAC.
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If you do not have 240 VAC at L1 and L2, there is a power supply or wiring issue.
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If you have 240 VAC, proceed to the next test.
2. Verify Voltage Leaving the Switch
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Turn the burner switch to High.
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Locate the output terminals (commonly marked H1 and H2).
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Place one meter lead on H1 and the other on H2.
Expected reading: Approximately 240 VAC when the switch is ON.
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If you have 240 VAC leaving the switch, the switch is working. The problem is likely the surface element or the wiring to the element.
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If you have 240 VAC going into the switch but 0 VAC coming out on H1 and H2, the switch is defective.
3. Check the Surface Element
If voltage is leaving the switch:
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Disconnect power to the range.
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Remove the element.
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Check continuity across the element terminals with the meter set to Ohms (Ω).
Expected reading: Low resistance (typically 15–50 ohms depending on the element size).
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OL/Open = bad element.
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Normal resistance = inspect the wiring and connections between the switch and element.
If you can provide a photo of the switch terminals, I can identify which terminals are L1, L2, H1, and H2 on your specific model.
If old switch still heats the burner and the new one doesn’t heat at all, I’d double check wiring first. That hex adjustment isn’t something you normally touch on a new switch. If the wires are in the right spots, there’s a good chance you either got the wrong switch or defective one. The new switch should be plug and play and shouldn’t need any adjustment to make burner heat
it says up there on my question, the unit’s model number and the switch part number that i bought.
all 6 wires that goes to the switch are connected to 2 connectors, 3 wires with own connector the other 3 have its own connector too. so there are 2 total connectors that goes to the switch. if you plug the old switch to these 2 connectors the element will heat up, so i think the wirings are good because if you plug the new switch there is no heat at all. i hope the part is only defective, they said they will send me a new one. the switch is right part number is right everything looks the same.
i do not have a multimeter and does not know how to use. i cannot understand why the old switch would work or heat the element but the new one does not heat the element. the reason i figured the problem is only the switch is because the old knob turns even if you dont push down on the knob. the element will heat up using the old switch but when you turn off a medium heat stays and does not go away unless i unplug the unit. so if the old switch heats the element why is the new one does not heat the element.