I had a service professional come and look at a GE Monogram Beverage center because the fridge was constantly on, and it was no longer keeping cool.
The response was that the fridge was broken and that repairing it would be too expensive. The repairman said something about a leak in the sealed black part (based on the technical diagrams I found on the web, I believe he is referring to the compressor).
The Fridge is about 7 years old, and cosmetically perfect. I am sickened at the thought of throwing this thing away given the shape it is in. I don’t think I’ve had to change the bulb yet.
So now my question. I am not a certified repairman, but am very handy with projects. Provided the problem is the compressor, could a layperson like myself make that repair without too much problem? How are the connections made - is there soldering involved? Can someone point me to a how to?
Thanks,
Mark
As you can see a replacement compressor is not cheap and you have no guarantee that it would fix your unit.
Due to the freon in the unit a pro must do any work on the sealed system.
You must have a set of gauges and other specialized tool to refill the unit.
Also there is no use in putting freon into a unit unless you can find the leak which can be very difficult.
In other words the advise he gave you was good advice in my opinion.
I would check that the condenser fan is running and that the condenser coils are clean.
If they are, I would keep my eyes on the fliers for a similar unit on sale.
I’m afraid I may have a closed system leak also. My Amana bx21vw is not cooling or freezing. I know there are 1000’s of posts on this topic, and trust me…I’ve done my homework. I’ll give you a run down just in case:
Temperature controls are set correctly; Evap fan is running; Condenser fan is running, Condenser coils are clean; there is zero frost on the evap coils; the compressor appears to be running ( it’s warm to the touch and hums, and does not click on and off repeatedly), however to be sure I checked voltage to relay and it’s at 120V, the relay does not rattle when shaken, and continuity is good; the defrost timer works and cycles through as it should; continuity on thermostat checks out good; continuity on defrost thermostat checks out good (though heating element has not come on due to a room temperature freezer ); doors were not left open and the gaskets are in good shape; also when feeling the evap coils with my hand they’re not cold, and actually the condenser fan is blowing colder air than the evap fan!
I’m all out of ideas which leads me to think there was/is a leak and there isn’t enough freon left to circulate through. Is it likely for the compressor to be dead even with proper voltage/continuity? If it were an inside mechanical problem, wouldn’t the overload switch cut the power to compressor?
Can anyone think of something I’ve overlooked, or is the fridge junk? Any replies are helpful and much appreciated.
Thanks, Jason
Sounds to me that you have done a thorough troubleshooting job.
There could be a mechanical problem in the compressor,
The motor runs but the internal linkage has blown, thios is unlikely but may happen.
Could even be a plugged orifice in the sealed system
In any case no freon or a bad compressor are both expensive fixes.
); doors were not left open and the gaskets are in good shape; also when feeling the evap coils with my hand they’re not cold, and actually the condenser fan is blowing colder air than the evap fan!