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Brand: GE Model Number: PS920SF3SS Main Symptom: when at max setting the smallest element stopped working completely , the middle heats up but is very dim, the large most outer works as it should. What happens & when:
Error Code (if any):
Parts or tests already tried: I replaced the element back in January (WB30T10155). Then when this issue started I bought and replaced the board (WB27T11356). When going through different settings I can hear the relays clicking but nothing happening at the smallest element. Is there anything else I am missing? Can it be a faulty element or something else?
Photos / video link:
Thanks for the detailed explanation and the photo! Looking at your GE PS920SF3SS, I can see the outer heating ring glowing brightly while the middle ring is considerably dimmer and the smallest inner ring doesn’t appear to be heating.
Since you’ve already replaced the heating element (WB30T10155) and control board (WB27T11356), I wouldn’t recommend buying another part just yet.
The next step is to determine whether the inner heating element has failed or whether it’s simply not receiving power.
Even though you hear the relays clicking, that doesn’t necessarily mean they’re delivering power to the element.
Here’s what I’d check first
1. Inspect the wiring connections. Turn off the breaker and verify power is off. Lift the cooktop and inspect the wiring going to the triple-ring burner. Look for loose terminals, burned connectors, or discolored wiring, particularly on the inner-ring circuit.
2. Check the heating element resistance. With power disconnected, remove at least one wire from each heating circuit you’re testing. Use your multimeter on the ohms setting to check continuity through the inner, middle, and outer heating circuits separately. Each should have a measurable resistance. An OL or open reading on the inner circuit would indicate a failed heating circuit or an open connection.
3. Check the control-to-element wiring. If all three heating circuits have continuity, check the wiring between the control board and element. A damaged wire or loose connector could prevent the inner ring from heating even with a good control board.
One other part worth checking
I checked GE’s parts diagram for your model and found something important. In addition to the control board WB27T11356, this range uses a separate six-relay daughter board, WB27T11355.
PS920SF3SS
+1
If you replaced only WB27T11356, the daughter board deserves attention. A relay can click without its internal contacts actually passing power.
What the test results will tell us
Inner element reads OL: The heating circuit is open, and the element may have failed again.
All three circuits have continuity: Focus on the wiring, connections, and relay controls.
A burned or loose terminal is found: Repair that connection before replacing additional parts.
A technician can also check for the proper operating voltage at the element while it’s commanded on. This involves exposed 240-volt circuits and should only be done by someone qualified to perform live electrical testing.
My question
When you replaced WB27T11356, did you also replace the smaller daughter relay board WB27T11355, or did you transfer that board from the old assembly?
That detail could help us narrow this down considerably without spending more money on unnecessary parts. PS920SF3SS-31-17058-1.pdf (252.3 KB)
Hello, I did check the continuity of the inner hearing element and it was no open circuit. I also located the wiring going from the element to the board with no issues with connectors. Does the smaller daughter board (WB27T11355) is responsible to give power to that element?
