Recently, the selfcleaning cycle was done. The oven since then appears to take too long to preheat. To reach 350 F, it takes 43 to 45 minutes slightly less in convection mode. The outer top visible heat element is hot to the touch, the same for the hidden bottom baking element. On broiling mode, the dual top visible element does not appear bright red. Everything else in the unit, including the stovetop works fine.
I have replaced the dual upper heating element, the oven temperature sensor and the electronic touch control board to no avail.
Would like to have suggestions on what to do next?
here is your parts breakdown
Model KERC607HBS1
Here is the tech sheet
https://www.servicematters.com/docs/wiring/Tech%20Sheet%20-%209753027.pdf
Please double check that the Model is HBS1 as there is also a HBS10 which is different.
You pretty well have changed everything.
So here goes my guess!!
You will see at the top of the wiring diagram is a BI METAL SWITCH AMBIENT, perhaps they are using this to check the exterior temp and then it is cutting back on the power supplied to the oven elements. I would check it to be sure it is closed (0 ohms). If you do not have a meter you could short the two wires together. Tape them up so they cannot short to anything and give it a try. I think it is Item 17 in the “Cooktop,literature” section. This is guess as I could find nothing in the info to support this.
Only other thing I can think of is the DLB relay as this is common to all oven elements. Could be the contacts are poor and it is dropping voltage across them. Though I doubt this as the volts they would have to use to give the symptoms you have would probably blow them up.
Thanks for your reply.I will try the bimetal switch and let you know. I am not an expert at all but it almost seems like the oven heating elements are only getting one 110 v line out of the 220 v.
Yes running on 120 would also have been my first thought but I cannot see anything that would do this. Your surface elements work good so they must be getting 240.
By the way I forgot it is a model HBS1. In the wiring diagram I notice this (optional) dlb relay coil. Could you tell me what that does? Thanks,just trying to learn.
I believe it is for Dynamic Load Balancing but since you are running the oven all on it’s own it should close and stay closed
Sorry for the delay. I took the terminals off the bimetal switch ambient (item 17) as you suggested. Tested the switch with a multimeter set at 200 ohms and got readings varying from 35 to 80. I guess this means the switch is no good??? Would the next step be to tape each of the two terminals separate, power up and time the heating cycle to reach 350 versus before. Correct??? Would really like your reply.Thanks,
Yes that is what I would do next.
The bi metal switch should have read 0 ohms so I agree with you it is probably bad.
Make sure to get good contact when you short the two together otherwise you will get an arc and spark and burn up the connectors.
Back to ground zero. I bypassed the ambient switch by connecting the two terminals together,powered up.It still took 40 plus minutes to reach 350 f. I did look into the terminal block where the power comes in and one red output line has an inline fuse in it but it looks ok to may. Any more thoughts?Doubler relay? Thanks.
Could be but I doubt it, mind you I was sure the ambient thermostat was the problem.
I would measure the voltage across one of the elements when it is on preheat.
If it less than you normal voltage in (240 as an example). Then measure across the relay contacts, they should have 0 or minimal voltage across them with the element on.
Just be careful there is not a stove made that is worth your life!!!
I measured the voltage across the terminals of the outer top heating element with the oven in preheat and got 121v and 123 volts (two tries). You now want me to measure the voltage across the terminals of the doubler relay.Correct? There is four, two red,a white and a yellow. One red has the inline fuse going to the power input terminal block, the other goes to the convenction ring element, the white goes to the cooling fan motor and the yellow heads up towards the control board. Do we want to measure across the two reds??? Too lengthy of a description, but I am a rookie at this.Thanks.
OOPs!!!
Lets back up
You should have 240 volts across the heating elements.
I cannot see the relay dropping ~120 volts across the contacts, they would burn up.
I will have to sit down and go over the wiring diagram again.
It looks like you are just connected across half the line. L1 or L2 to Neutral (120 volts) and not L1 to L2 (240 volts)
I assume the voltage you measured was constant and did not fluctuate too much.
I believe the 2 red wires will be the correct ones for the elements. They should be heavier gauge wire.
The wiring diagram does not show a fuse. I would pull it and check it.
This still does not explain how we end up with 120 on the oven elements unless we have a short to ground somewhere and this blew this fuse and now one side of the oven elements where they are joined together is shorted to ground and open from the L2 side.
Also recheck the power in just to be sure it is 240 volts but how the stove top elements can work normally without the 240 is beyond me.
Sorry for some reason your last two answers did not generate e-mails. I did not mention before that when I got 120 v across the h.e., I checked at L1/N, L2/N got 120+ volts in each and 240 + at L1/L2 at tthe 4 way wall receptacle.
Lets not forget that this happened after the self cleaning cycle and my wife tells me that is the first time since we have the oven (9 yrs) that she has used it. (old fashioned hard way she does it!!) . I think your thought of short to ground makes sense.
The inline fuse appears ok. I will check it and write again.
The fuse you found has been bugging me as I did not see it on the wiring diagram so I went and took a look at the HS10 wiring diagram. Low and behold there’s the fuse.
It is not uncommon for manufacturers to make small changes without changing a Model Number and sometimes they make major changes without a Model change. I am wondering if we have a transition unit here re: HS1 model number and HS10 guts.
HS1 = Model KERC607HBS1
HS10 = Model KERC607HBS10
So now we have to confirm what we actually have.
In the HS1 the control/display board has the element control relays on it.
In the HS10 there is a separate board that has the control relays
Also are you in Canada?
As that also makes a difference to the wiring.
I have not checked the in line fuse yet. Any shortcut method to do it? Our oven has no separate board for the control relays. I think I have seen them in the one and only control board, 4 rectangular tall boxes on the board? Im not in Canada, mid Florida.
Latest update. Removed the lead from the terminal power board to the doubler relay with the inline fuse. Tested, open, bad fuse. Went to get a 20 amp littlefuse and had the lead with the inline fuse tested at store. Result the same fuse no good. Replaced the lead with good fuse. Powered up. Large puff,spark, fuse blown. (it seemed to come from the oven side where the double relay is). Stove top still works fine. Oven back as before. How do I test the doubler relay with the power off?
Replaced the DLB Relay. Oven works great, preheating to 350 F in 11 minutes versus the 45 it took before. End of thread.