Got hit by storm, knocked down power lines outside the house, blew up some light bulbs, messed up a circuit breaker or 2, ruined a TV Cable box, etc., from sending mucho juice thru the place, wreaking havoc on several circuits inside, and it seems to have overloaded, or fried something inside the washing machine.
It still fills, and drains, but doesn’t agitate or spin. I tried the simpler stuff, unplugging, multiple opening and closing the lid within 15 seconds as per GE’s website and so on, but it still doesn’t work right. I suspect it might be the “main board” part number WH12X10524 but I’m not sure. Is this likely to be partially fried by a big jolt of electricity, or is there something else that might have taken the hit and caused this machine to go on the fritz?
I haven’t opened it up yet because I am guessing this is a logical train of thought question for someone in the know, and I’d rather have the parts ready before I start making a mess of the laundry room.
I’m not makin’ the big bucks I’d like to be, so doin’ it myself is my best option. Since I’m handy with tools and am less stupid than I look, I figure that with a little guidance, I probably won’t drown during the rinse cycle!
Thanks in advance,
Shaun
Sidfink,
Thanks for the reply, I’ll try to open it up this weekend and see about that light blink. I assume the motor is in the base rather than up top, so I’ll need a little more working room than I first thought, also.
I understand the site lets you return parts if need be, but I’d just as soon try for confirmation of some sort before putting both thru the process.
I’ll keep you posted as to my frustrating misadventures!!
Shaun
Sid,
I opened the washer up this morning, and it appears that this one has no fuse in the line mentioned, as per the directions you led me to. and I’m not seeing ANY lights, tho it says I ought to be seeing one “under the white flap”. I’m supposed to see a red led type light, but I don’t. I tried resetting by unplugging, waiting a minute, then re-plugging and opening and closing the lid quickly a half-dozen times and more, but still see no light.
If there’s no fuse to blow, what’s the next most likely issue, remembering that the whole house was jolted by a massive charge. What part of the washer is first in line to be damaged by a burst of electricity?
[COLOR=“Red”]Dangit,[/COLOR] why no fuse to simply swap out?
[quote=histylerider;792915]Sid,
I opened the washer up this morning, and it appears that this one has no fuse in the line mentioned, as per the directions you led me to. and I’m not seeing ANY lights, tho it says I ought to be seeing one “under the white flap”. I’m supposed to see a red led type light, but I don’t. I tried resetting by unplugging, waiting a minute, then re-plugging and opening and closing the lid quickly a half-dozen times and more, but still see no light.
If there’s no fuse to blow, what’s the next most likely issue, remembering that the whole house was jolted by a massive charge. What part of the washer is first in line to be damaged by a burst of electricity?
[COLOR=red]Dangit,[/COLOR] why no fuse to simply swap out?[/quote]
Even a surge protector may not protect against lightning. I would call your homeowners insurance co & make a claim for all the damage including replacing your machine as many parts were probably damaged or weakened so they will fail later.
Ryder, thanks for joining in. Unfortunately, insurance has $500 deductible, and won’t kick in enough to do us any good at this point. I need to get this fixed, at least for now. Any ideas on what’s most likely?
Thanks,
[quote=histylerider;793002]Ryder, thanks for joining in. Unfortunately, insurance has $500 deductible, and won’t kick in enough to do us any good at this point. I need to get this fixed, at least for now. Any ideas on what’s most likely?
Thanks,[/quote]
I suspect the main control board in front & probably the inverter, maybe even the motor. The maching is probably not worth fixing. Look on craigslist, find another used one or a new one on sale.
Good luck.
The washers that have the newer motor/inverter with red LED under the flap do not have the fusible link. The motor/inverter is connected to line voltage all the time, even with machine off. Looks like the motor/inverter is toast. Since it fills and drains, the main control board may be ok.
Fairbanks and Ryder, thanks for the input. As bearers of bad tidings, I hope you both appreciate my not “killing the messengers”. I was really hoping to impress the wifey with this repair, but I understand sometimes it just can’t happen. Looks like I’ll be shopping for another machine. I wonder if it’s worth calling in a pro to confirm what I’m getting here, MS. Wifey may not want me to just go by what I find online, even tho she knows I do my share of advising others on some topics!
Sidfink, do you also think I’m doomed to replacing the machine instead of a couple of parts? You seem to have a good handle on things around here too.
I am not suggesting buying a new machine. That’s a crapshoot, literally, as they are all a piece of crap. I personally spent $450 on my 10 year old GE top loader this year to keep it going rather than buying new. I am totally amazed at the way the new Whirlpool VMW design washers are built! What a piece of junk! This replaces their 30+ year old proven direct drive design. We are seeing more and more of them and boy do they have problems. While yours is not a Whirlpool, it is one of the newer GE models and fits into that piece of crap category as far as I’m concerned.
If you have a multimeter, you can check for 120vac at the motor. If you have it and the LED is not working, then it’s bad. They are not repairable and the inverter board is not replaceable. You have to replace the whole motor/inverter.
If you buy the motor from appliancepartspros, and it doesn’t work, you can return it.
Fairbanks,
I have a multitester, and used it to detect that I have about 98 ohms at the “sifter coil”??? according to one of the repair tutorials , that seems to indicate a bad motor, but I don’t know just where to put the probes to check for the 120vac on the motor as you suggested. Where do I tap into the motor to do so, and I guess that’s done with with power to the machine, or no?
I really DO appreciate the help, btw, thanks.
Shaun
Actually, your better off not trying this on a live circuit. Your washer has the newer type motor that has a drip shield that comes down in front of the inverter board preventing you from accessing the test points. In this case, you would need to use needle tip test leads or insulation piercing test clips to make the measurement. The best way for you would be to just check continuity between the AC power plug and the connector on the inverter. Unplug the washer and unplug the leftmost connector on the inverter board. You should have continuity between the neutral blade (wide) of the washer power plug and the wht/red wire of the plug and continuity between the hot blade (narrow) of the plug and the two wires to the right of the wht/red wire. On some washers, these are red/blk and orange, some have blk and gray. Regardless, you should have continuity on those two rightmost wires with the lid closed. If continuity is good, then you know your getting power to the inverter. The 98 ohms on the shifter means the shifter coil is good. BTW, there should be a wiring diagram located somewhere behind the control panel of your washer.
Eric,
I will try it as you describe, thanks.
Yes, there’s a page of them, it was tucked into a slot behind the control panel. Doesn’t say much about the motor, it’s more the upper panel and knobs etc.
I’ll try to open the machine up again today, and let you know what I find.
Shaun
Eric,
Well, I have continuity between the plug blades and the connector as you described, and I found that the all red wire is the one for the lid switch, which is also working as it seems it ought to. Does this mean that the motor and sifter coil and inverter are good, and the lid switch is also good? Does that mean it has to be the top panel, the one with the knobs/control panel? Or is there yet another area that could still be at fault?
I almost feel like I might be on the right track here!
Eric,
Well, I have continuity between the plug blades and the connector as you described, and I found that the all red wire is the one for the lid switch, which is also working as it seems it ought to. Does this mean that the motor and sifter coil and inverter are good, and the lid switch is also good? Does that mean it has to be the top panel, the one with the knobs/control panel? Or is there yet another area that could still be at fault?
I almost feel like I might be on the right track here!
Eric,
Dangit, I was hoping it would be one of the less expensive parts I needed! Oh, well,am I safe in guessing the motor will be all it needs? No need to get the control panel?
Again, thanks for helping to walk me thru this.
Shaun
I can’t say whether your control unit is ok or not. Since it does fill and drain, and we know the motor/inverter is likely bad, the control unit may be ok. The mini-manual should explain how to put it into diagnostic mode where you can test for the proper voltages to the motor/inverter. (rightmost connector on inverter).
This machine is only a year or so old. Were you happy with it’s performance before the power surge? Apparently, many others think this thing is a piece of junk as are most of the new machines made in recent years. If you were happy with it, then I would just replace the motor/inverter and see what happens.
I was really hoping to impress the wifey with this repair, but I understand sometimes it just can’t happen. Looks like I’ll be shopping for another machine. I wonder if it’s worth calling in a pro to confirm what I’m getting here, MS. Wifey may not want me to just go by what I find online, even tho she knows I do my share of advising others on some topics!