When I try and start the washer, the door locks and it starts sencing the load but then stops and clicks a few times and then the lid lock light flashes. The lid stays locked and I have to unplug to reset and open the lid. At first, the washer would stop at certain cycles, like rinsing or spinning, now it won’t start at all and just locks the lid with the light flashing.
Hi.
Check all the connectors at the control board and shifter assembly. Find the instructions inside the washer’s cabinet.
There could be a bad lid switch, shorted or broken wire harness, bad shifter, bad control board.
Here are the breakdown diagrams and Gearcase, Motor and Pump parts for Whirlpool WTW4950XW2 - AppliancePartsPros.com
Post the results.
Simon.
I found the diagnostics book inside and performed all the tests and diagnostics. All electrical tests check out. Have come to the conclusion it is either the shifter or the control board. When going through diagnostic tests, while checking the rpm/optical sensor on the shifter, when toggleing to test this all the led lights are supposed to go out and then rotate drum slowly by hand and the lights are supposed to come on one by one, but all the lights do not go out, the done led stays lit, therefore rotating the drum sequence does not function. This is where I am stumped as to is the shifter or the control panel. Any thoughts?
You can do some more testing if you have a multimeter. Do the tests outlined in the manual. Your checking for 13vdc at the shifter connector on the control board and checking for rpm sensor input as you very slowly rotate the basket (should switch between 0 and 5vdc). The shifter is a very high failure item in this washer. The rpm sensor is part of the shifter unit. The optical sensor fits up into the transmission housing. You only see this when you remove the shifter.
Eric
I did do the voltage test for the shifter and got 13 vdc. but did not do the rotating test to check for the vdc. I will check that today.
I also removed the shifter and had a look at it. The white arm that rides along the shifter cam seemed to be out of position riding on the back of the cam instead of in the groove. There is a tiny black switch this arm toggles, is that part of the optical sensor, or what is its purpose?
The switch tells the control unit whether its in agitate or spin mode. The arm of the shifter engages the cam within the splutch (splined clutch) which raises or lowers the basket drive gear. When lowered, the drive gear engages the main drive pulley. Internal splines in the basket drive gear engage splines on the transmission drive. In agitate, the basket drive gear is raised so the main drive pulley only turns the transmission agitator input shaft. The switch in the shifter basically confirms to the control unit, when the shifter has moved to the proper position.
Eric
Thanks for all your help, will check the rpm sensor input and hopefully will find that it’s not reading and be able to replace the shifter. To replace the control board is just too expensive.
Well I performed all the multimeter tests, and they check out fine. Step 11 comfirms the vdc test for rpm input, I get the readings of 0 to +5vdc while turning the drum, so the next step is to go to #17 which is to replace the main control.
Thanks again for all your help.
What about where you mentioned “white arm that rides along the shifter cam seemed to be out of position riding on the back of the cam instead of in the groove”? Not sure what you are talking about there but if the shifter is not engaged properly with the cam in the splutch, that is a problem.
Eric
I adjusted the arm to ride in the proper groove, but it did not change anything. In diagnostic manual mode I can hear the shifter change into agitate and it starts to agitate both in gentle and heavy but when I toggle to the spin mode, both low and high, I can hear the shifter activate and the machine starts to spin but than stops a few seconds later and thats where everythings stops and the lid lock light flashes and you have to unplug machine to reset.
But all the mulutimeter checks show its all good.
Two other things to try. First, check the air dome and hose on the lower right rear side of the outer tub for gunk buildup. When the tub fills/drains water, air pressure in the hose is used to operate a pressure transducer on the main control board which tells the computer how much water is in the tub. This transducer is much more sensitive than the typical pressure switch found on other washers. Also try running the calibrate function in service mode. Another remote possibility is something caught in the pump. The control board monitors electric current used by the pump and if something is caught in there, it thinks there is still water in the tub even though the pressure transducer says there isn’t.
Eric
[quote=fairbank56;803008]Two other things to try. First, check the air dome and hose on the lower right rear side of the outer tub for gunk buildup. When the tub fills/drains water, air pressure in the hose is used to operate a pressure transducer on the main control board which tells the computer how much water is in the tub. This transducer is much more sensitive than the typical pressure switch found on other washers. Also try running the calibrate function in service mode. Another remote possibility is something caught in the pump. The control board monitors electric current used by the pump and if something is caught in there, it thinks there is still water in the tub even though the pressure transducer says there isn’t.
Eric[/quote]
I had the pump off and checked it, nothing stuck, runs fine.
Blew out hose to make sure it was clear.
Ran the calibrate function each time I checked, removed and replaced component and everytime the washer stops at the same spot. It runs through everything - water fill, agitate, drain, and then when it gets to spin, you can hear the shifter change and the drum starts to spin but then stops and lid light flashes and machine needs to be unplugged to reset.
Another question: on your parts sight there are two different elect. control boards. One is $376.77 part#W10393489 and the other is $144.19 part #W10480261. The higher priced one is for model #'s wtw4950xw0 and wtw4950xw1, and the lower priced one is for model #wtw4950xw2.
My model is wtw4950xw, there is no number after the w. How do I know which part I would need.
Are you able to rotate the basket freely by hand?
I can only assume that yours is the xw0 version. The last number in the model number reflects any revisions made to previous models. I don’t know why the discrepency in price and don’t know if the later version control unit would work in an earlier revision washer. It’s does the same thing but may have hardware/firmware upgrades. You might try contacting Whirlpool if no other input on the issue here.
Here’s the parts manual for the xw0 It has a different number altogether for the control unit but crosses to W10393489
Eric
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Yes, I can turn the drum by hand.
Ok, that’s normal. Just checking to make sure the basket isn’t locked up. Looks like the control board.
Eric
[quote=fairbank56;803023]Ok, that’s normal. Just checking to make sure the basket isn’t locked up. Looks like the control board.
Eric[/quote]
Yes, I think so. Disappointed, only had it for a year.
Thanks again
Based on feedback from other technicians, it is becoming apparent that even though the shift actuator passes all tests indicating it is good, replacing them anyway, fixes the problem. Something with the optical rpm sensors.
Eric
Okay, well maybe I will replace that part.