The over the range lights (nightlight) weren’t working and one was broken.
I replaced both and the lights still don’t turn on when I push the “light” button. What should I check next? (There is power to the microwave.)
[quote=fresca;255417]The over the range lights (nightlight) weren’t working and one was broken.
I replaced both and the lights still don’t turn on when I push the “light” button. What should I check next? (There is power to the microwave.)[/quote]
Does everything else work ?
Did you notice any damaged wires at the sockets when you replaced the bulbs ?
If all you saw,appeared ok , then you will need to check the blue wire that goes from the control board to the light socket(s).
I normally DON’T reccomend a consumer or DIY’r access the control panel assembly, due to the High Voltage components or wiring,that are hazardous to your health,if you touch one accidentally.
:eek:
all else appears to be working. will check sockets and wires. if all is good what then?
You’ll need to access the control board and check the mini relay for power out to the lights,
Like I said,
I don’t reccomend you access the control cavity, due to the possible high voltage shock hazard to you.
If you wish, I can give you the procedure and terminals to check.
:eek: :eek:
Joe,
I would appreciate the procedure and terminals to check. I have the same problem with my Whirlpool MH1150XMB.
Thanks,
Scott
[quote=spcp90;360706]Joe,
I would appreciate the procedure and terminals to check. I have the same problem with my Whirlpool MH1150XMB.
Thanks,
Scott[/quote]
Scott,
This should get you through the checks and repairs.
You do have the same problem, cooktop lights(on the bottom of the microwave) ?
Per the previous post, there are high voltage components in the area, be cautious.
[FONT=Arial-BoldMT]ELECTRICAL SHOCK HAZARD
[/FONT][FONT=ArialMT][LEFT]Disconnect power before servicing.
Replace all panels before operating.
Failure to do so could result in death or[/LEFT]
electrical shock.
[FONT=Arial-BoldMT][LEFT]CAUTION: [/FONT][FONT=ArialMT]When you work on the microwave
oven, be careful when handling the sheet metal
parts. Sharp edges may be present, and you
can cut yourself if you are not careful.
5.Remove the screw from the top of the
control panel and pull the top forward.
1.Disconnect the electrical power to the
microwave oven.
2.Remove the two outer screws from the top
of the cabinet.
3.Pull the top of the air grille forward, lift the
bottom tabs from the slots, and remove[/LEFT]
the grille from the microwave oven.
[FONT=ArialMT]4.Open the microwave oven
[FONT=ArialMT][LEFT]5.Remove the screw from the top of the[/LEFT]
control panel and pull the top forward.
Once you have access to the control board,
Turn on the hood lights(on hi setting) and check for 120 VAC on connector P3 pin 1(yellow wire) to chassis ground.
Then check for 120 VAC from connector P3 pin1 to connector P2 pin 1(green wire) for the same.
No voltage on either test would indicate a bad control board.
Voltage on the control board connections would indicate a broken wire, or receptacle problem.
Good Luck,
[/FONT][/FONT][/FONT][/FONT]
Joe,
Thanks for the help. Unfortunately there was no voltage on the control board pins that you told me to check so I assume that the control board is bad which basically totals the microwave after seeing the parts cost. Thanks for buying Whirlpool I guess. I will try another brand next time.
Scott
[quote=Joe / APP Team;361401]Scott,
This should get you through the checks and repairs.
You do have the same problem, cooktop lights(on the bottom of the microwave) ?
Per the previous post, there are high voltage components in the area, be cautious.
[FONT=Arial-BoldMT]ELECTRICAL SHOCK HAZARD[/FONT]
[LEFT][FONT=ArialMT]Disconnect power before servicing.[/FONT]
[FONT=ArialMT]Replace all panels before operating.[/FONT]
[FONT=ArialMT]Failure to do so could result in death or[/FONT][/LEFT]
[FONT=ArialMT]electrical shock.[/FONT]
[FONT=ArialMT][FONT=Arial-BoldMT]CAUTION:
[/FONT][LEFT][FONT=ArialMT]When you work on the microwave[/FONT]
[LEFT][FONT=ArialMT]oven, be careful when handling the sheet metal[/FONT]
[FONT=ArialMT]parts. Sharp edges may be present, and you[/FONT]
[FONT=ArialMT]can cut yourself if you are not careful.[/FONT]
[FONT=ArialMT]5.Remove the screw from the top of the[/FONT]
[FONT=ArialMT]control panel and pull the top forward.[/FONT][/LEFT]
[LEFT][FONT=ArialMT]1.Disconnect the electrical power to the[/FONT]
[FONT=ArialMT]microwave oven.[/FONT]
[FONT=ArialMT]2.Remove the two outer screws from the top[/FONT]
[FONT=ArialMT]of the cabinet.[/FONT]
[FONT=ArialMT]3.Pull the top of the air grille forward, lift the[/FONT]
[FONT=ArialMT]bottom tabs from the slots, and remove[/FONT][/LEFT]
[FONT=ArialMT]the grille from the microwave oven.[/FONT]
[FONT=ArialMT][FONT=ArialMT]4.Open the microwave oven[/FONT]
[LEFT][FONT=ArialMT][FONT=ArialMT]5.Remove the screw from the top of the[/FONT][/LEFT]
[FONT=ArialMT]control panel and pull the top forward.[/FONT]
[FONT=ArialMT]Once you have access to the control board,[/FONT]
[FONT=ArialMT]Turn on the hood lights(on hi setting) and check for 120 VAC on connector P3 pin 1(yellow wire) to chassis ground.[/FONT]
[FONT=ArialMT]Then check for 120 VAC from connector P3 pin1 to connector P2 pin 1(green wire) for the same.[/FONT]
[FONT=ArialMT]No voltage on either test would indicate a bad control board.[/FONT]
[FONT=ArialMT]Voltage on the control board connections would indicate a broken wire, or receptacle problem.[/FONT]
[FONT=ArialMT]Good Luck,[/FONT]
[FONT=ArialMT] [/FONT]
[/FONT][/FONT][/FONT][/quote]
[/LEFT]
[quote=spcp90;361755]Joe,
Thanks for the help. Unfortunately there was no voltage on the control board pins that you told me to check so I assume that the control board is bad which basically totals the microwave after seeing the parts cost. Thanks for buying Whirlpool I guess. I will try another brand next time.
Scott
[/left][/quote]
Scott,
Sorry to hear that,
I presume you will change out the unit, if or when something else goes wrong ?
In the mean time,
Good Luck,