Hi, Hope I can get some suggestions regarding our range. A few days ago, the oven decided it would not heat up, just out of the blue. It worked fine the night before. The display shows that it is on, the temp, etc…just no heat. The fan is coming on, but all the heating elements are cold…no heat at all. It was suggested by a couple people that it may be a heating element, or most likely the ERC board. Correct me If I’m wrong, but all 3 heating elements in the oven wouldn’t go out at the same time, correct? If one was out the other two would still work, I’m assuming. Based on that, I took a chance and ordered the new ERC board from here…it arrived today, I put it in, and no change at all. Now I’ve spent $165, and still have an oven that doesn’t heat up, and a non returnable part. The only good thing that came out of that is the buttons are much easier to push than the old board. They were never easy, and we asked the service guy about it when he was fixing something else, and he said it was normal because of the way the board attches to the control panel, and we believed him. Anyway, at least there is a positive to the new ERC board, but the oven still doesn’t heat up.Any ideas??? Could it be the oven temperature sensor? I’m running out of things it could be, I think. Any help greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!
acillatem,
What about the surface elements? Do they work? If not, check the circuit breaker.
Assuming the circuit breakers are fine and your range is getting 220 volts (and not just 110 volts)… - I checked your model and don’t see a fuse, however I do recall more than one case where KitchenAid forgot to include the fuse on the diagrams…
Try this: disconnect the power to the range first. Then, remove the back panel of the range. You should see the ends of all three oven elements. First, see if there is anything that looks like a fuse on the back wall of the range (small plastic component with two wires connected to it). If you don’t see anything like that, you can trace the common wire and see where it leads to (there is a common wire that all three elements share). If there is no fuse (or thermostat), chances are it leads to the common relay on the board. This is where I would typically recommend replacing the board, but you’ve already done that. Let me know what you find. If you do see a fuse, get the 7 digit number off of it and post it here.
[QUOTE=Admin / APP Team;64]acillatem,
What about the surface elements? Do they work? If not, check the circuit breaker.
[/QUOTE]
Yes, everything else works just fine…it’s just the bottom oven that won’t heat up on bake or broil. I’ll check for fuse after work, and let you know…thanks!
[QUOTE=Admin / APP Team;64]acillatem,
What about the surface elements? Do they work? If not, check the circuit breaker.
Assuming the circuit breakers are fine and your range is getting 220 volts (and not just 110 volts)… - I checked your model and don’t see a fuse, however I do recall more than one case where KitchenAid forgot to include the fuse on the diagrams…
Try this: disconnect the power to the range first. Then, remove the back panel of the range. You should see the ends of all three oven elements. First, see if there is anything that looks like a fuse on the back wall of the range (small plastic component with two wires connected to it). If you don’t see anything like that, you can trace the common wire and see where it leads to (there is a common wire that all three elements share). If there is no fuse (or thermostat), chances are it leads to the common relay on the board. This is where I would typically recommend replacing the board, but you’ve already done that. Let me know what you find. If you do see a fuse, get the 7 digit number off of it and post it here.[/QUOTE]
I have looked very thoroughly, and there is no fuse. Up in the top control panel all around the ERC board, and in the back after removing the back cover. I even followed the thick red wire down to the pigtail, and no fuse of any kind. I’m not kidding, it’s not there, unless they hid it under the cooktop on mine, and I doubt that. I went and bought an Ohm Meter today, and checked all 3 elements, and all 3 registered zero when tested, which is what I should get if working correctly, right? And I checked the oven temperature sensor, and it measured 1000 ohms resistance, which I’ve been told is what it should be…hopefully that was accurate information. I did find the common wire that all 3 elements share, and it is a brown wire that ends up going to a sort of tan wire that ends up at some terminal on the ERC board, and the plastic over the connector has a kind of “burned” look to it, which seems odd to me. From what I can see, it still appears solid, so I’m assuming there is still a good connection, but this could be the problem, so I have a couple pictures, to see if anyone agrees, or has an idea what is going on with this. It is linked to the 3 elements, so maybe this is the culprit. Here are the 2 pictures:
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j161/metalliholic06/DSCF1875.jpg
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j161/metalliholic06/DSCF1874.jpg
Again, any advice greatly appreciated,and thanks in advance! I almost called the local repair place today after the new board didn’t solve the problem,but I have this feeling it’s something simple now. Sure hope so anyway. I don’t give up easily lol.
Looks good (read “bad”) to me. Since you have a meter, go ahead and check that wire for continuity. Unplug it from the board, put one meter lead on each end and see if there is a break, probably at the terminal. But either way, that terminal looks pretty burnt up. I would recommend changing it. Radioshack should have one.
Let me know how it goes.
So(since this is foreign to me), I pull that wire in the picture off, and then do I simply find the next break in that same wire, and then test it from those 2 ends??? Do I leave the meter on OHMs? I consider myself pretty handy, but electrical stuff is uncharted territory to me, for the most part, that’s why I ask. What do you think caused that terminal to do that, and If I go to Radioshack, is there any special thing I need to ask for, or simply clip that terminal off, and say “i need one of these”? And thank you very much!
acillatem,
After checking your photos again, I think you don’t have to worry about testing the wire for continuity. Replace the terminal and that should do it. If you’d like to know how to test for continuity anyway, let me know.
What you need is a 1/4 inch female insulated terminal. Cut the old one off, leaving about half an inch of the wire on it. Take it to Radioshack. If you’ve never replaced a terminal before, the counter people should be able to show you how, and probably try to sell you wire strippers as well :).
Keep us updated please. I’m curious to know what happens.
[QUOTE=Admin / APP Team;126]acillatem,
After checking your photos again, I think you don’t have to worry about testing the wire for continuity. Replace the terminal and that should do it. If you’d like to know how to test for continuity anyway, let me know.
What you need is a 1/4 inch female insulated terminal. Cut the old one off, leaving about half an inch of the wire on it. Take it to Radioshack. If you’ve never replaced a terminal before, the counter people should be able to show you how, and probably try to sell you wire strippers as well :).
Keep us updated please. I’m curious to know what happens.[/QUOTE]
Thanks again…just got back from Radio Shack…had to find it myself, the guy looked puzzled lol. Couldn’t find a right angle one, but oh well, no big deal, straight will work. I’ve got crimpers and whatnot…I’ve done this kind of thing, so hopefully this is it. I would find it hard to believe that I would have bought a brand new board that would have a bad relay…anything is possible, but that would be pretty rare, I’m assuming.
I agree, although possible, it’s pretty rare for a new board to be defective. Of course if it is, you’ve got the warranty, and we’ll take care of it right away.
Let me know what happens.
[QUOTE=Admin / APP Team;130]I agree, although possible, it’s pretty rare for a new board to be defective. Of course if it is, you’ve got the warranty, and we’ll take care of it right away.
Let me know what happens.[/QUOTE]
O.k. the idiot sold me the wrong connectors, so I had to go back. I’ll be doing all the testing and whatnot soon. The guy on the phone said electrical parts are not returnable, but you’re saying it is under warranty?
Electrical parts, once plugged in, are not returnable - industry standard. However, every part we sell comes with manufacturer warranty, what’s more is there is no need to contact the manufacturer - we take care of it for you. So, if a part you bought from us is defective or becomes defective within the warranty period, let us know and we’ll exchange it free of charge, just pay for shipping.
I just discovered something that I may have blown off as a connector of some type, but may be the inline fuse for the red wire that goes to the relay. It is not too far up the red wire from the pigtail, and looks like a fuse that may have been sealed with that heat shrink tubing, or whatever it’s called. Maybe I’m wrong, but take a look:
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j161/metalliholic06/DSCF1273.jpg
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j161/metalliholic06/DSCF1275.jpg
What do you think? Looks like one of those automotive type fuses in a holder, and shrink wrapped…or i’m just hoping beyond hope. I have a feeling I’m going to feel like a real idiot here soon lol.
I just cut the tubing off, and it is a fuse, and it is blown. I feel like an idiot. I just saw the black tubing and thought it was a connector, until I looked close. Any idea how I can get one of these, or the entire wire with the fuse in it, since it is inline. I called my local auto parts store to see if they had inline fuse holders with 14 gauge wire, and they do, but this has asbestos insulation on it, and the wire from the auto parts store won’t. Any other way to wrap it to protect it from the heat like the original insulation if I can’t order the wire with the fuse?
Here’s what it looks like with everything stripped away
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j161/metalliholic06/DSCF1283.jpg
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j161/metalliholic06/DSCF1282.jpg
Good eye! Good news is I found the fuse. Bad news is it comes as part of the entire harness for the range, all $77.21 of it (see photo through the link below). It’s a shame KitchenAid makes you buy the whole harness, but there isn’t much we can do. Give us a call on Monday, mention this post and we might be able to give you some kind of a discount (ask for Matt or Adam).
Photo of the harness (you can click on the photo to zoom in)
[QUOTE=Admin / APP Team;141]Good eye! Good news is I found the fuse. Bad news is it comes as part of the entire harness for the range, all $77.21 of it (see photo through the link below). It’s a shame KitchenAid makes you buy the whole harness, but there isn’t much we can do. Give us a call on Monday, mention this post and we might be able to give you some kind of a discount (ask for Matt or Adam).
Photo of the harness (you can click on the photo to zoom in)[/QUOTE]
Thanks man! Yeah, that sucks it’s part of the entire harness.I hope it at least comes with vaseline…ouch! LOL.I appreciate any break you can give me. Says it’s out of stock though…how quick will it come in? I know when I ordered my ERC, it came in one day, and that was cool. It came from Fresno, and I just live in Ukiah, so I’m sure it would be the same, correct? Yeah, I got the fuses out of their “caps”…down to this
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j161/metalliholic06/DSCF1292.jpg
and got these
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j161/metalliholic06/DSCF1278.jpg
and this
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j161/metalliholic06/DSCF1289.jpg
and was going to try and press these “caps” on to the fuse, and heat shrink it again, but a friend of mine said you may not get a good connection, as those caps are pretty tight when new, and the fuse will most likely overheat and blow again, so getting the wiring harness is the smart thing to do, don’t you agree? Of course you do, you sell them haha…just kidding man…I like to do things the right way, especially in this situation. There are times when jerry rigging something is o.k. but I don’t think this is one of those times. Correct me If I’m wrong, but wouldn’t my local appliance repair have most likely told me that it was part of the complete wiring harness, and sold me the whole thing, plus labor? They sure wouldn’t make something on the spot, would they?
We have multiple warehouses across US and always try to ship from the closest one to the customer, because of this most orders are being delivered within 1-2 business days.
This harness is out of stock, not a single warehouse has one. This means that it would take about 2 weeks to get it from Whirlpool (KitchenAid’s parent company) to you. We can put a rush on it and ask Whirlpool to send it via next day or second day air, but that would cost extra. Whirlpool charges $35 for next day and $25 for second day air.
To answer your other question, it is possible to replace just the fuse. Whether or not a technician would be able to do it depends on two things in my opinion: 1. tech’s knowledge and experience 2. willingness to “go the extra mile”. It looks like you’ve got all the right parts, but I couldn’t really tell you if you could pull it off yourself 
Let me know what you decide to do.
O.k. Thanks! I might give it a shot, but will most likely order it anyway. Does your offer for a possible discount stand for a couple days?
Not a problem. Whenever you’re ready…
Adam just informed me that you ordered the harness. We’ll try to get it to you as quickly as possible.
If you need more assistance, you know where to find us
And of course, thanks for the order.