Oven not Heating

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Brand:GE
Model Number:RB757CH1CC
Main Symptom:oven not heating. everything else working properly
What happens & when:turn oven on to 300 degrees. does not reach 300 degrees. light stays on PRE.

Error Code (if any):
Parts or tests already tried:
Photos / video link:

If you unplug the power cord, remove the back panel from range, plug it in and start a bake cycle, does the bake element get 240 Volts AC when testing from wire to wire with a multimeter?

Wish i was knowledgeable on doing this: does the bake element get 240 Volts AC when testing from wire to wire with a multimeter?

would you be able to tell me how to do that test , using a multimeter ?

On the multimeter (depending on the specific meter), usually there should be a symbol that is a V~ or it will say VAC. It will need to be set to this measurement selection. If you are unsure about testing with live voltage, let me know and there is a different approach we can take with testing. With the back panel of the range removed (do not disconnect anything else) and the bake element terminals located near the bottom of the range, the power cord can be plugged in. Set the range to bake. Using the probes of the multimeter, place one probe at one wire and terminal connection, then place the other probe on the other wire and terminal connection. The multimeter should show a reading quickly. If it measures 240, the bake element has failed. If it does not, let me know. WB30X46987 Bake Element | Genuine Ge OEM In Stock

can you explain the other approach to testing.

this maybe easier for me.

Certainly — here’s how to run those checks in a clear, friendly way:

With the power cord unplugged and both the rear panel and console removed, you can test everything right from the back.

1. Prevent false readings

There are three relay blocks on the control.
Remove the yellow wire from the relay that sits closest to the center of the board.
This keeps the meter from picking up feedback during testing.

2. Test the heating elements (Ohms)

Set your multimeter to Ohms (the Ω symbol — looks like an upside-down horseshoe).

Place one meter probe on the brown wire located on the relay at the far end of the control.
You’ll leave this probe in place for both the broil and bake tests.

Now use the other probe to check:

  • Broil element: test at the blue wire on the middle relay block

    • Expected reading: ~16 Ω
  • Bake element: test at the yellow wire you disconnected earlier

    • Expected reading: ~22 Ω

If either one is far off from those readings, let me know which wire gave the out-of-range result.

3. Test the oven temperature sensor

If both elements test good, check the sensor next.

  1. Locate the sensor connector coming from the top-right of the oven when viewed from the back.

  2. Disconnect it.

  3. Test directly on the two sensor terminals going into the oven.

You should get roughly 10,000 Ω (10K) at room temperature.

Do you get a different reading on any of these tests?

I have a Question.

Are the BAKE ELEMENT TERMINALS Located inside the Oven itself , or will I see them in the back , after I Remove the Back Panel ?

You will be able to see them once the back panel is removed.

Can i connect to the bake element terminals from here , or do i need to remove the rest of the silver panel ?

The rest of it would need to be removed. The bake element wires are located about 3/4 of the way down the last piece. The broil element will be the brown wire and the blue wire just above the last panel piece. Just to the right of the broil element will be the oven sensor wire connection.

you mentioned the Broil Element. Did you mean the Bake Element ?

because my issue is with Bake.

When using a bake cycle, the broil element gets cycled on for a brief amount of time when the bake element is cycled off during preheat. Testing both elements would be necessary.