Brand: LG
Model Number: LRMVS3006S/02
Main Symptom: Neither icemaker (spacesaver nor craft) produces ice
What happens & when:
The ice in spacesaver will freeze and will harvest when the reset is pressed, but doesn’t harvest automatically. The craft ice doesn’t freeze and pours water into the collection bin where it will freeze.
Error Code (if any): no code
Parts or tests already tried: have replaced both icemaker units.
Photos / video link:
For LRMVS3006S/02, I would not replace either icemaker again. The symptoms point much more toward a temperature/airflow or control/sensor problem affecting the ice systems.
The two symptoms are especially useful:
LG’s service information specifically says that when the refrigerator-room icemaker isn’t producing ice, the icemaker compartment should be below 10°F, and lists the ice fan, ducting, compartment sensor, and sealed-system performance as things to check.
This is the quickest test and I would do it before replacing any more parts.
Put a thermometer:
SpacePlus compartment: Put the thermometer between/next to the ice bin or ice tray area, close the door, and leave it there several hours—preferably overnight.
You want the actual temperature in that compartment below about 10°F. LG specifically uses below 10°F as the criterion in its icemaker troubleshooting.
Freezer: Put another thermometer between two frozen-food packages near the Craft Ice maker.
You should be approximately 0°F, preferably around -2°F to +5°F.
If you’re finding something like:
then concentrate on the ice-room fan/air duct system, not the icemaker.
If the freezer itself is substantially warmer than 10°F, concentrate first on the freezer cooling system.
The SpacePlus icemaker doesn’t have its own refrigeration system. Cold freezer air is circulated into the ice compartment.
Check that the ice fan is actually running and that the supply/return passages to the ice compartment aren’t blocked with frost or ice.
LG specifically identifies these possibilities when the ice compartment isn’t getting below 10°F:
Ice fan not operating → blocked multi-duct/air passage → poor cooling/sealed-system condition.
Don’t assume the fan is good just because there is no Er IF error. Verify airflow.
Look closely where the refrigerator door interfaces with the cold-air duct.
Check for:
LG’s troubleshooting information specifically lists poor cap-duct sealing as a cause of an icemaker compartment that won’t maintain proper temperature.
There is also an ice-level/detection circuit that can prevent automatic production.
LG gives a useful diagnostic:
The display should indicate ETY when the ice-detecting sensor correctly sees the bin as empty.
If it indicates FULL with the bin removed, troubleshoot the ice-detection sensor/circuit.
That is worth checking because an erroneous FULL signal can prevent automatic harvesting even though pressing TEST manually makes the icemaker operate.
Press and hold the Craft Ice maker’s TEST button for more than 3 seconds.
The service test runs it through:
initial position → ice ejection → water supply.
LG specifically recommends checking for displayed errors and making sure the icemaker power switch is ON before performing the test.
Since you’ve already replaced this icemaker, I’m more interested in what is happening to the water after the test.
After it fills, don’t run another test. Check it periodically.
If that water is still liquid several hours later, you’ve basically proven this isn’t an icemaker motor problem. The freezer/craft-ice area isn’t getting cold enough, or the refrigerator isn’t correctly sensing its temperature.
Because both icemakers failed at approximately the same time and replacing both didn’t correct either one, I’d look for their common denominator.
My order of suspicion would be:
1. Temperature/cooling problem
2. Ice-room fan or blocked ice-room duct
3. Ice-room/freezer thermistor problem
4. Wiring/connectors between the icemakers/sensors and main PCB
5. Main PCB
I would not jump to the main PCB yet.
The single most useful information now is:
Freezer actual temperature = ___°F
SpacePlus ice compartment actual temperature = ___°F
Those two readings will tell us which direction to go. The fact that the Craft Ice water isn’t freezing makes temperature verification particularly important before doing electrical board testing.
The actual freezer temperature was 18F and space saver was 16F. Looks like the problem is in the freezer itself.
I also checked the refrigerator temperature and it is reading higher than the setpoint 44 vs 37 (this reading was taken about 15 minutes after moving the thermometer)
Could it be a thermostat problem?
Yes, those temperature readings change the diagnosis quite a bit. I don’t think the ice makers are the root problem anymore. The refrigerator itself is not getting cold enough.
With the freezer at 18°F and the SpacePlus/door ice compartment around 16°F, the ice makers can fill and freeze water but may not automatically harvest. That fits your earlier symptom where the SpacePlus ice maker will harvest when you press Reset but won’t do it on its own. The craft ice maker can also behave erratically when the freezer is this warm.
I would not replace a thermostat or temperature sensor yet. On this LG, warm temperatures in both the freezer and refrigerator point more toward an overall cooling problem.
Give the refrigerator thermometer more time.
Fifteen minutes isn’t really enough for an accurate refrigerator-compartment reading. Put the thermometer in a glass of water near the center of the refrigerator and leave it for several hours, preferably overnight. The freezer reading of 18°F, though, is definitely concerning if it has stabilized there.
Check the freezer evaporator fan.
Open the freezer and listen for the fan. You may have to hold the freezer door switch closed. You should hear the evaporator fan running when the compressor is operating.
Check the condenser area.
Make sure the condenser isn’t packed with dust and that the condenser fan beside the compressor is running whenever the compressor is running.
Look at the freezer evaporator frost pattern.
This is probably our best next test. Remove the freezer’s inside rear panel after the refrigerator has been running for several hours.
You’re looking for:
A bad freezer thermistor could cause incorrect temperature regulation because the control board relies on that sensor to determine freezer temperature. But because you’re seeing both compartments warmer than their set temperatures, I’d want to see the evaporator frost pattern before condemning a sensor.
And there’s another useful clue: 18°F is far too warm for reliable automatic ice production. Most ice-maker controls need the ice-maker mold/sensor to get considerably colder before initiating harvest. So the ice-maker symptoms may simply be a consequence of the cooling problem.
I would leave both new ice makers alone for now. Let’s concentrate on why the freezer is only reaching 18°F. If you can get a picture of the evaporator after removing the freezer rear panel, I can usually tell quite a bit from the frost pattern alone.