I’m helping a friend repair a Whirlpool dryer. Everything works fine…accept it doesn’t heat up. I was told it was probably the Heating Element. So, I bought and replaced the Heating Element on the Dryer. No dice. My next thought was to replace the Hi-Limit Thermostat, but before I do that, I wonder if someone who knows more than me could possibly provide me with a way to properly diagnose my problem so I don’t continue to buy parts I don’t need. What are the most common issues I could be running into. I’ve thoroughly examined the wiring, the Thermostat, and the new Heating Element, and they look good. Albeit I would have no way of telling if the Thermostat had gone out. I wouldn’t know what to look for. Help? Would love to get this thing running.
Hi.
I’d love to help you, post the correct model number.
Simon.
TEDX640JQ1. I think I had an X where the D is.
Hi.
Firs of all check if there is 240VAC at the terminal block.
No voltage - check the circuit breaker and wall outlet.
If you are getting 240v, remove the rear panel and check (using the multimeter) continuity at thermal cut-off and hi-limit thermostat.
The cut-off kit AP3094244
Make sure that the dryer vent (inside and out) clean.
Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for Estate TEDX640JQ1 DRYER | AppliancePartsPros.com
Thank you. Post the results.
Simon.
Wow. This is excellent. I will try this out and get back to you. Thank you so much for the thorough response.
You are most welcome.
Simon.
I don’t appear to be getting any voltage at the Hi Limit Thermostat. I will order the replacement part and see if that fixes the issue.
I have nearly replaced the Hi Limit Thermostat. The new thermostat is different from the old one though and there is a wire that has no connecting terminal now. The installation instructions has a note on how to handle this. I am not an electrician so I am not sure how to proceed. Hoping you can help. Here is the note:
“If there is a 3/16” terminal connected to the old direct connect thermostat then one end of the jumper wire must be cut off and the male/female combination terminal crimped into place. Then, the male/female combination must be attached to the thermostat. The 3/16" female terminate must also be cut off of the wire harness and the 1/4" female terminal crimped onto the wire. Then that wire must be attached to the male/female combination terminal."
Included with the thermostat were three spare parts. A red wire with a white stripe (looks similar to the jumper wire), a gold terminal connector and a smaller silver terminal connector that appear to need to be connect to one or more wires. I have no idea what to do here. I hope this message is clear. I work well with pictures, but there were no diagrams to outline this step. Any help is much appreciated.
Thanks,
Hey Simon. I just wanted to follow up on my post to see if you had any advice. I’m at a loss right now. I have a good idea of what to do, I just don’t want to cause any problems. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Just to add my 2 cents…
I’m wandering why did you check for voltage while Simon recommended to check this part for continuity?
I’m afraid that you instead of performing step-by-step troubleshooting to determine which part exactly is causing the dryer not to heat trying to fix it by guess.
There are six parts involved in the heating process (which all can be tested for continuity) and if you are going to replace all of them, you will end up paying much more than $100.
Gene.
I am not an electrician and am trying to do somebody a favor. I misinterpreted what Simon meant by continuity. Perhaps you can clarify what he meant? In any event, I have already ordered the parts and installed them. I cannot get the hi-limit thermostat installed though due to the issue i described above. So worse case scenario, if after installing it correctly it still doesn’t work, I can check for the other stuff as I’ve already ordered the parts. Also, I am able to return the Heating Element which cost about $50. So I am not totally screwed. Thanks for the input!
Just found a great article on checking for continuity. Yeah, I was definitely checking the wrong stuff (checked for voltage instead). I understand what to do now. You said 6 parts. I know of three, what are the other three?
Great article for novices on checking for continuity:
These six parts are: the heater, the high limit thermostat, the cycling (operating thermostat), the thermal cut-off, the motor switch and the timer (#17, #15, #24 & #6 at the diagram). They are listed in the sequence they have to be tested.
The timer has to be tested for continuity across the terminals BK & R while the timer is in On position.
You have to unplug the dryer and remove the wires from the parts which are testing. Write down their position prior to removal so you’ll know how to put them back. Post the results before order any parts.
Gene.
P.S. Does the original high limit thermostat looks like the one shown on the picture from the installation instructions?
No. The replacement high limit thermostat is different and has one less connection terminal. I believe it is the 3/16 inch one referred to in the instruction manual in the “Notes” section. This is what confused me while trying to install it. Does that make sense? Thank you for the response.
The instructions said: “if the thermostat you are replacing looks like the picture bellow, the following steps must be performed…”.
You said it’s different, so you DO NOT have to follow those steps. It’s probably direct replacement part which does not need any alterations. Can you post a picture of the original and new thermostats?
And, if the original high limit thermostat will pass continuity test, why do you have to replace it at all?
Gene.