Yes! Check the timer terminals between black and red wires as well. It has continuity. I replaced the thermastats because I ordered it thinking the thermastats was the issue. Anyway, the dryer runs w/ the drummer rolls but still no heat. What could be the problem if those were not the issue? The timer seems to work as well.
Korry-
[quote=Gene;204136]Korry,
Did you disconnect the wires from the parts before the continuity tests?
If your answer is “Yes”, then check for continuity between the timer terminals BK (black) and R (red) while the timer is in any auto or timed dry position. The wires should be removed from those terminals.
[quote=nguyeko;204533]Yes! Check the timer terminals between black and red wires as well. It has continuity. I replaced the thermastats because I ordered it thinking the thermastats was the issue. Anyway, the dryer runs w/ the drummer rolls but still no heat. What could be the problem if those were not the issue? The timer seems to work as well.
Korry-[/quote]
Everything checks OK, but there is no heat… It can not be like that. Very likely something was wrong with the tests. You may want to start it from scratch.
Thanks Gene. It turned out the heating element is bad. There are 4 terminals in the vicinity. I was mistaken w/ the 2 other terminals. The heating element ONLY has one wire connected to its terminal. Anyway, after replaced the heating element, it works perfectly.Thanks again.
[quote=nguyeko;205890]Thanks Gene. It turned out the heating element is bad. There are 4 terminals in the vicinity. I was mistaken w/ the 2 other terminals. The heating element ONLY has one wire connected to its terminal. Anyway, after replaced the heating element, it works perfectly.Thanks again.
Korry-[/quote]
Korry,
I’m glad to hear you were able to fix it. Good job!
Unfortunatly I am still having a no heat issue with my dryer after completing all the listed steps on all 6 pages. TWICE! Maybe I am doing something wrong, everything shows o ohms except the element which shows 10 ohms, but I read somewhere else that 10 ohms is acceptable. I will be calling around to repair shops tomorrow but would really like to get this taken care of myself. It is a used dryer that I picked up for 30 bucks, already ran the new wiring I need for it and don’t want to have to redo all that work to go back to my old dinosaur of a dryer. Thanks in advance for help and I will be checking this constantly.
Reading more threads, could it be my M2/M1 motor’s centrifugal switch? If so, how to I access that? Do I have to take the drum out? Should I check voltage at the thermostats and stuff while its running?
[quote=lilteddyp;228458]Reading more threads, could it be my M2/M1 motor’s centrifugal switch? If so, how to I access that? Do I have to take the drum out? Should I check voltage at the thermostats and stuff while its running?
Thanks[/quote]
Have you checked the voltage at the wall outlet? It suppose to be 120 VAC between each of the two hot wires and the neutral, and 240 VAC between the hot wires. The heating element needs 240 VAC while the motor needs only 120 VAC.
[quote=Gene;228648]Have you checked the voltage at the wall outlet? It suppose to be 120 VAC between each of the two hot wires and the neutral, and 240 VAC between the hot wires. The heating element needs 240 VAC while the motor needs only 120 VAC.
Gene.[/quote]
I have 120 on each side(I am assuming that would comine itself to 240) How would I check both sides combined? Use gator clips to both hots? I barely mess with 110vac and almost never 220vac (but I don’t hesitate to jump on 12vdc!)
is a link to my photobucket with pictures of the back of the dryer and a video of my checking everything. The vid is dark due to lighting and my girlfriend isnt the best camerawoman.
