No Dryer Heat

Dryer Repair
21

Hi Gene, hoping for your help again

No dryer heat on a gas whirlpool dryer…I’ve replace the coils, the thermal sensor and the ignitor…what now?? LGN2000LWO

Leesa

22

Hi Leesa,

Did you check for continuity the thermal fuse (#7 on the break down diagram)?

Gene.

23

I haven’t, I’ll check that. Is there another part that is getting weak if it is the thermal fuse?

Leesa:confused:

24

Whirlpool recommended to replace the cycling thermostat (#9 on the break down diagram) too if the thermal fuse is open. Also check the exhaust line (inside & outside) for any blockage.

Gene.

25

Thanks Gene, I changed the fuse and thermostat and we’re up and running once again:) thanks for your help!!

Leesa

26

I’m glad you were able to fix it. Happy Holidays!

Gene.

27

Merry Christmas to you too!!:stuck_out_tongue:

28

I have the same issue, dryer spins with no heat. First i just ordered the element and the manual, i install the element no joy. i read out cont. on the old element, reads good. i follow troubleshooting through the manual, i read out the thermal fuse, thermostat, and the thermostat that attaches to the coil on the lower side, they read bad with cont. Okay so now im at a stand point i just received the new parts in, installed them and stiil NO JOY. okay, so i check around the forum and find a post about the voltage supply from the wall, i read out the cable and it only gets 110v, should i be reading out more than one wire??? is there more than one power wire, are they in phase? i pulled the panel on my circuit breaker box and read out the power going into the breaker, it reads 240v and 0 tripped. I believe that means the breaker is good? Can anyone please give me some advice…summary

  1. replaced thermal fuse
  2. replaced thermostat
  3. replaced thermostat attached to element
  4. element reads good with 0 ohms.
    yes all wires were disconneted when i read them out.
  5. could possibly be a voltage issue, as i dont know if there is 240v? it reads 110v on the yellow to ground and red to ground.
29

Had you check the voltage at the wall outlet or at the dryer terminal block?

There are three wires - two hot and one neutral. Each hot to neutral should read 120 VAC and between both hot should be 240 VAC. If there is only 120 VAC is coming to the dryer, then everything will work except the heating element which requires 240 VAC.

Gene.

30

[QUOTE=Gene;182687]Had you check the voltage at the wall outlet or at the dryer terminal block?

There are three wires - two hot and one neutral. Each hot to neutral should read 120 VAC and between both hot should be 240 VAC. If there is only 120 VAC is coming to the dryer, then everything will work except the heating element which requires 240 VAC.

Gene.[/QUOTE]
Gene,
I read out the terminal block on the dryer and i found that the black and red are hot, with the yellow, green, and green w/ white stripe are neutral. can you post a picture of how it should be wired for a 4 prong power cable, or point me in the right direction? thank you !!

31

What is the complete model number of the dryer?

Gene.

32

teds840pq1 it is an whirlpool estate.

33

You can find the complete instructions in the Installation instructions.

Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL TEDS840PQ1 29"electric Dryer | AppliancePartsPros.com

Gene.

34

The diagrams do not tell me which wire goes where on the terminal block. all i get are the neutral or ground wires, not the hot. is there another diagram or have you seen anypictures of the correct wiring for the power cable?

35

There are three screws on the dryer terminal block. The center screw is always neutral (white wire). Two outer terminals are for hot lines (usually red and black). It does not make any difference which hot wire goes left or right.

If you used 3 wires power cord, then the dryer internal ground is connected to the middle screw (green wire or metal ground strap).

The 4 wire power cord has a ground (green) additional wire. If it’s used for your dryer connection, then this power cord ground wire should be connected to the dryer terminal block frame or the dryer cabinet and the dryer internal ground wire or metal ground strap must be removed from the terminal block center screw. The neutral and hot wires have no difference in their connections between the 3 and 4 wires power cords.

Gene.

36

I followed all the steps above and everything seems ok w/ continuity, including the air duct. However, number 8 in the diagram showed ONLY two prongs but on my dryer it has four prongs, and two of them with the purple cable connected to them do not have continuity. Is this my problem? If I replace them, the new part has only two prongs. my whirpool dryer model is: LER7648PQ0. Please help!

37

Sounds like this cycling thermostat is fine. Did you check the circuit breakers? There are two breakers and they both must be On to provide 240 VAC to the dryer.

Measure the voltage at the wall outlet.

Gene.

38

I followed these steps and they’re all fine:

  1. Make sure one of the circuit breakers is not tripped
  2. Make sure dryer gets 220 volts at the wall socket
  3. Unplug the dryer and check the main terminal block for damage (this is where the power cord is attached)
  4. Check the thermal fuse for continuity with an ohmmeter (fuse is number 7 on this diagram)
  5. Check the heating element for continuity (heater is number 17 on the same diagram)
  6. Check thermal cut-off for continuity (number 9 on the same diagram)
  7. Check cycling thermalstat ( two prongs has continuity and two other prongs w/ purple cables do not have continuity). I thought this was the issue so I ordered the part. So if you said this part is ok, then what could be the issue? Thanks for helping.
39

Hi Gene,

Any idea what else could cause the dryer to work but no heat? Thanks and appreciate your help.

Korry-

40

[quote=nguyeko;203744]I followed these steps and they’re all fine:

  1. Make sure one of the circuit breakers is not tripped
  2. Make sure dryer gets 220 volts at the wall socket
  3. Unplug the dryer and check the main terminal block for damage (this is where the power cord is attached)
  4. Check the thermal fuse for continuity with an ohmmeter (fuse is number 7 on this diagram)
  5. Check the heating element for continuity (heater is number 17 on the same diagram)
  6. Check thermal cut-off for continuity (number 9 on the same diagram)
  7. Check cycling thermalstat ( two prongs has continuity and two other prongs w/ purple cables do not have continuity). I thought this was the issue so I ordered the part. So if you said this part is ok, then what could be the issue? Thanks for helping.[/quote]

Korry,

Did you disconnect the wires from the parts before the continuity tests?

If your answer is “Yes”, then check for continuity between the timer terminals BK (black) and R (red) while the timer is in any auto or timed dry position. The wires should be removed from those terminals.

Gene.