I needed to change a seized motor in my electric Estate dryer. The dryer did nothing but buzz when pushing the starter button & to demonstrate this, my wife pushed the button until something clicked & the buzz stopped. I don’t know if this would be the cause of the no-start issue but I’ve checked the coil, fuses (unless I missed one from the schematic) & thermostats & all checked out OK.
The new motor is part number 279827, manufactured by Whirlpool. Wiring harnesses all look OK. Some wiring is showing corrosion near the clips but the wires have continuity. Don’t know what else to say to help but if there is a helper for this problem, I’ll provide any info you may need.
Here are your parts.
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL TEDL640DQ1 ELECTRIC DRYER | AppliancePartsPros.com
See the attachment for the wiring diagram.
The only fuse you have to worry about is the “Thermal Fuse Non Resettable” on the blower. It is the only one that effects the motor.
First check the power to the unit.
Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times.
Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
If this does nothing, check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
L1 to Neutral is the important one as this is the voltage running the motor.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
Do this with the heater off and on.
[COLOR=“Red”]Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!![/COLOR]
If power is OK then unplug the dryer.
Tape/affix one of your meter leads to the Neutral connector on the line cord plug.
Set the meter to the most sensitive scale (Usually 200 ohms). Short the meter leads together before you stat so you can see if there is a zero offset.
Set the timer to Off
Now just work your way back through the motor start circuit.
So the door switch should give 0 ohms when closed.
The push to start switch should give 0 ohms when pushed.
Keep the switch actuated.
Both sides of the thermal fuse should give a couple ohms. This is the start and run motor windings.
BU on the timer should also give that reading.
Now turn the timer to On.
You should now see a couple ohms at the BK timer winding.
Note: It may be slightly different from what you saw at the BU connector with the timer at Off as you are switching in other devices that could be in parallel with the motor. But the reading should be close.
Then check the L1 at the line cord plug, should see the same as the BK connector.
If all OK then I am stumped.
LER4634.pdf (125.0 KB)