After replacing the directional switch I still have the same problem. Sometimes when I close the door the cycle starts automatically. Then when it gets to the top, it keeps going. Is this another switch iossue? Or Drive gear issue?
It sounds like the start switch may be the culprit.
What about the possiblility of the gear assembly?
After rereading your original post, I reconsidered my response. If it has been goiing on for a length of time, it coudn’t hurt to inspect the gears and drive cams for damage.
The problem is more likely caused by the upper limit switch (or stop switch). It mey be loose, misaligned, or broken.
Well Ive changed the upper limit/directional switch and the start switch but didnt bother with the new foot pedal looking thing to actuate it.
WHAT ELSE??? Ugghhh.. Getting frustrated. Any help is greatly appreciated..
I also checked the rods and they seemed ok.
[quote=frank the tank;614151]Well Ive changed the upper limit/directional switch and the start switch but didnt bother with the new foot pedal looking thing to actuate it.
WHAT ELSE??? Ugghhh.. Getting frustrated. Any help is greatly appreciated..
I also checked the rods and they seemed ok.[/quote]
I went as far as to replace the centrifugal switch… Now its worse. Starts EVERYTIME I shut the drawer.
I checked continuity on the start switch and it seems ok. Unless I did it wrong.
[quote=frank the tank;625080]I went as far as to replace the centrifugal switch… Now its worse. Starts EVERYTIME I shut the drawer.
I checked continuity on the start switch and it seems ok. Unless I did it wrong.[/quote]
OK just got done checking everything. The only thing not coming out right is the Y wires from the upper limit and start when connecting to the black wire off the centrifugal switch. I get no reading yet the diagram says there should be a 3-5 ohms reading. So what does that tell me???
Since we already know your motor runs, it probably means there is a disconnected wire somewhere. (or you’re taking your reading through an open switch).
Were you able to download the manual for your machine?
yes I have it right here. I have checked all the switches and wires. The yellow is the only ones not closed whereas the diagram shows there should be at least a reading. A yellow goes from solid pack button to the upper limit. The upper limit has a wire going from it to the temporary start switch. From there it goes to the centrifugl switch.
Ok Im second guessing myself here. I think I may have tested both yellows while they were disconnected simultaneously. Does that make a difference?
Do you get a reading across the two wires when you close the start switch?
just checked again. With both wires off I get a reading weather on or off, Where to next..
I’m stumped.
to clarify, i took the wires off the switch and weather I turn the start to on or off I get a reading.
Hey thanks for the time and help by the way. Im going on 3 hrs and have done all I could do.
stumped doesnt sound promising… guess Ill have someone come out. shame only about 2 years old
Hi Frank,
You probably overlooked something or did some test wrong.
Can you describe step by step how did you check the start switch (#14 on the diagram ), the proper alignment of the pedal, the top limit directional switch and it’s alignment please?
Gene.
I’m at work at the moment gene. But i followed the troubleshooting instructions as outlined in the repair paper attached to tue unit. Only thing I’m not really sure how to check for alignment. It appears the metal tab on the upper limit switch appears to be engaged as the Compactor is in the up position. The pedal seems ok. I checked to make sure the metal tab is not depressing the start button constantly.
I’m sure I must be nssing something.
How did you run the continuity tests? Did you remove the wires from a device being tested?
Gene.
I’m pretty sure i did but will rerun tests again tomorrow. I know I checked the wires as well.
#14 was rechecked with wires off. I get a reading then when button is depressed reading is no more…