My refrigerator is making a noise and has an error code that keeps popping up

Brand:Kitchen Aid
Model Number:KRMF706ESS01
Main Symptom:Door Error Code
What happens & when:

Error Code (if any):Yes red door open error code
Parts or tests already tried: I and installed this part Whirlpool W10815669 Refrigerator Door | Genuine OEM Part

And I’m still getting this error. And the fridge is still making a noise. Please help
Photos / video link:

Can you tell me what kind of noise and where it seems to be coming from?

The noise is coming from the refrigerator. It’s a red error code. Attached is the photo of the error code.

What does the noise sound like, rattling, popping, scraping, loud, soft, continuous rhythmic

The noise sound like an alert, like if the refrigerator door was left open and it’s alerting to close it. It’s alarms 3 times before stopping, and maybe going off again 19 mins later.

ok so it’s a reminder tone

I meant 10 mins later.

Yes it’s like a reminder alarm.

Where did you get the door? is it OEM? Have you checked the door switch?

The door came with the refrigerator. Only part I have changed since purchasing this refrigerator is part mentioned: Whirlpool W10815669 Refrigerator Door | Genuine OEM Part

In which the refrigerator was making this noise before I purchased this part from this company, upon watching a YouTube video I opened the part on the refrigerator attached here and realized all of the wires were corroded and and was in really bad shape. This part comes as a new wire system that favors a motherboard, along with new door.

now that we have that changed, the noise wand error code still hasn’t stopped going off. So I’m not sure what to do at this point, to get this fixed.

On the KitchenAid KRMF706ESS01, I would not replace another door yet. The W10815669 you installed is the stainless pantry drawer door, and it is correct for this model.

The important thing now is determining which door input the control thinks is open. This refrigerator monitors several door switches, and a bad switch, broken wire, or connector problem can keep the Door Open indication on even with a new pantry door. The wiring information specifically shows the control monitoring the freezer, both pantry drawers, and refrigerator doors.

Run the door-switch diagnostics first

Enter Service Diagnostics:

  1. Press SW1 and SW2 simultaneously for about 3 seconds.
  2. Release when the display enters diagnostics.
  3. Use SW5 to advance through the tests.
  4. Go to Service Test 16 – RC Door Switch Input.
  5. Open and close the refrigerator doors individually and watch whether the displayed status changes.
  6. Then go to Service Test 17 – FC/Pantry Door Switch Input.
  7. Open and close the freezer and pantry drawers one at a time.

The big clue will be a switch input that doesn’t change when its door is opened/closed.

Don’t overlook the actual door switches

This model has separate physical door switches. Parts listings show multiple switches depending upon position, including two-terminal and three-terminal switches.

If Test 16 or 17 identifies a door that stays OPEN:

Quick test: manually depress that door’s switch while watching the diagnostic display.

  • Reading changes: switch isn’t being depressed far enough when the door closes. Check door alignment, switch mounting, and actuator contact.
  • Reading doesn’t change: unplug the refrigerator and check the switch with your meter.
  • Switch tests correctly: inspect the harness and connectors from that switch back toward the control.

Because you replaced W10815669

Pay particularly close attention to the pantry-door electrical connection/harness.

W10815669 isn’t merely an ordinary refrigerator door; it’s the temperature-controlled pantry drawer door assembly. A connector that isn’t completely seated, backed-out terminal, pinched wire, or damaged harness can leave the control seeing an incorrect door state.

I’d unplug the refrigerator and disconnect/reseat every connector disturbed during the W10815669 installation, looking closely for:

  • bent or pushed-back pins
  • corrosion/moisture
  • partially seated connectors
  • pinched wiring
  • wires broken right at the connector

There are documented cases on this particular model family where pantry-door connector/harness problems cause unusual lighting, dispenser, and Door Open behavior.

About the noise

I wouldn’t assume the noise and Door Open indication are two separate failures yet. A false door-open signal can change fan operation and other control behavior.

Run Tests 16 and 17 first and tell me exactly what numbers you get with each door open and closed. With those results, we can narrow this down to the specific switch, pantry harness/connector, wiring, or main control instead of throwing another expensive part at it.

tech-sheet-W10844356-RevA (2).pdf (516.1 KB)

I’m not sure where I should find these functions, SW1 and SW2. Can you tell me where to locate these functions?

Where do I find this?

find what? those are the buttons on the control board

I do not see those functions. Attached is a photo of the control board

they are on the user interface of the board where the display is

I have sent you a photo of this showing the back of it, it does not look like the photo you sent with Sw1 and Sw2