Based on what you’re describing with your Frigidaire Gallery FGHC233FAA, I agree that the main power control board is a possibility, especially since these problems started immediately after a six-hour power outage. However, I wouldn’t replace the board just yet. There are a couple of checks that can help narrow this down.
You have three symptoms that may be related:
- Refrigerator temperature: The fresh-food compartment is staying around 29–30°F, which is too cold. Ideally, it should be around 37°F.
- Temperature display: Both the freezer and refrigerator displays show only one illuminated bar, although the other control functions seem normal.
- Water and ice: Neither the water dispenser nor the ice maker is receiving water, even though the ice maker mechanism still operates.
Since the freezer is cooling normally, I would concentrate on the temperature controls, sensors, and water supply before suspecting a sealed-system problem.
Here’s what I would check next
1. Check the user interface board first.
The missing temperature display segments are a strong indication that the user interface board, part 5304527931, may be failing. This is a known symptom on the closely related FGHC2331PFAA model.
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Try changing the refrigerator temperature setting to 40°F. Does the control respond, even though the display is difficult to read? If it doesn’t respond correctly, that makes the interface board more suspicious.
2. Check the refrigerator temperature sensor and air damper.
If the refrigerator is actually holding at 29–30°F, the control may be receiving an incorrect temperature reading, or the damper may be allowing too much cold freezer air into the refrigerator.
On the closely related model, diagnostic test 29 checks the fresh-food thermistor. Its reading should be within approximately 10°F of an accurate thermometer placed near the sensor.
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3. Check the water supply before replacing a board.
Since neither the dispenser nor the ice maker receives water, check that the supply valve is open and the refrigerator is getting water.
Also, check whether the water filter or filter housing is restricting flow. If water is reaching the inlet valve, the next step is checking whether the valve receives approximately 120 VAC when the dispenser is activated.
Live voltage warning: Only perform this test if you’re comfortable working around energized electrical connections.
4. Consider the main control board.
If the temperature sensor and damper check out, the water supply is good, and the controls aren’t operating correctly, the main control board becomes a stronger possibility.
My recommendation
I suspect the user interface board more than the main power control board for the display problem, but I wouldn’t assume it explains the overcooling and water failure without additional testing.
I have two questions that would help narrow this down:
- When you press the water dispenser paddle, do you hear a humming or clicking sound from the water inlet valve, or is it completely silent?
- When you try raising the refrigerator temperature setting, does the control respond, or does it seem stuck at its current setting?
Those two answers should help determine whether we’re dealing with a control board problem or potentially separate issues caused by the outage.
Also, please confirm whether the full model number is FGHC2331PFAA. That will help make sure we’re using the correct wiring diagram and part numbers.