My fridge quits after 2 days GE GSS25GSHGCSS

Refrigerator & Freezer Repair
1

Brand: GE
Model Number: GSS25GSHGCSS
Main Symptom: works well for 2 days then warms up
What happens & when:

Error Code (if any):
Parts or tests already tried:
Photos / video link:

I have an eight year old GE side by side refrigerator model number GSS25GSHGCSS which has failed. If unplugged and restarted it works well for 2 days, even making ice then both compartments get back to room temperature.

I have tried all the usual suspects, even replaced the defrost heater, defrost thermostat, defrost thermistor and the freezer side door seal as the old one had a worn spot that make have been leaking air. I tested both old and new heaters with direct 120VAC and they heat up fine. The evaporator coils did get heavy frost while the unit was working.

I cleaned out the condenser coil compartment and both condenser and evaporator fans seem to be working fine. I did the compressor windings ohm test, checked start capacitor (both fine and compressor is not shorted to ground) and overload protector has continuity.

I had though of an intermittent failure of the start relay (it’s a combo type) but when the fridge is plugged in the compressor starts and hums along just fine and I don’t know how to test the combo type relay.

At this point I am thinking it’s a failure on the control board but do not know how to diagnose it. I inspected its reverse side and all seems ok , no bulging capacitors either. Ohms at the J1 plug all look good, about 4K each.

Using a YouTube video I checked the voltages at the J2 plug feeding the fans and it is getting supply 13.7 VDC between black pin 3 and red pin 8 which is within the required 12 to 14 VDC. When the fridge is running, the voltage delivered to the
evaporator fan is 10.3 VDC and that to the condenser fan is 11.8 VDC which are a bit lower than the required 12 to 14 VDC.

Removing the J2 plug from the board and testing the plug pins (fridge unplugged) between Black (pin 3) and red (pin 8) there is only 800 ohms when it should be between 1.5K and 3K ohms according to one YouTube technician.

Alas it hath defeated me.

All is assistance is greatly appreciated!!

2

Michael, I assure you all is not lost, you have provided me with enough information that I know pretty well what the problem is. You stated that the evaporator coils get a heavy frost on them after 2 days, which tells me that it is not going into a defrost cycle. There is nothing wrong with your compressor, start device, or fan motors. If there were a problem with the compressor or start device, you would not have a heavy frost pattern. You have replaced the heater and the thermostats; all that is left is the control board. Here is a link to the part you need: WR55X40445 Board T Main Sxs Ss | Genuine GE OEM In Stock. Let me know how your repair turned out

3

These motors can not be check with ohms.This is wrong information!

4

I think i made an error taking notes from that YouTube video, i was not exactly sure i was supposed to measure after disconnecting the J1 plug.

5

Thanks so much for the quick diagnosis.

I was going to purchase a new board but it being a quite expensive item, an eight year old unit, and not wanting to call a repairman to ascertain it is the board, this all happened at the time (July 9th or so) when the sales at the big box stores were ending so i purchased a new fridge from Big Orange, a very similar GE.

If you are certain it is the board then the unit is salvageable and i would not mind the cost to keep the unit as a back up garage refrigerator for beer and fish bait.

6

You are on the edge of it’s life span, about 10-12 years, and you start having sealed system issues. I have a GE, and it lasted about 10 years before I had issues with the compressor and evaporator leaks. Most of the appliances are not made to last like they used to. Good luck

7

Thank you for your prompt attention,