Brand: Maytag Model Number: mvwx500xw2 Main Symptom: Not starting cycle What happens & when:
Original issue was clothes coming out dripping wet after failing spin cycle. We replaced the drive hub. After replacing drive hub, when staring a cycle the lid will latch. The washer begins making noise as though it is sensing a load, then stops. Lid lock indicator blinks for 4-5 minutes, then unlocks. Replaced lid lock, still having the same issue.
Error Code (if any): F7E1, F5E1
Parts or tests already tried: Replaced drive hub, replaced lid lock
Photos / video link:
For your Maytag MVWX500XW2 washer, the two error codes are helpful, especially since you’ve already replaced the drive hub and lid lock.
F7E1 – Basket Speed Sensor Fault: The control isn’t detecting the expected basket movement or speed. This can be caused by a faulty shift actuator, a drive system problem, or a wiring issue.
F5E1 – Lid Switch Fault: The control isn’t detecting the expected lid open/closed signal.
Since the lid locks, the washer attempts to sense the load, and then stops with the lid lock light blinking, I would focus on the shift actuator and drive system first, while also verifying that the new lid lock is communicating properly with the control.
Before replacing anything else, let’s run the washer’s built-in diagnostics and calibration.
1. Enter service diagnostic mode
Make sure the washer is plugged in, in standby mode, with all indicator lights off.
Choose any three buttons except Power and Start.
Press those three buttons in this sequence within eight seconds:
4. If successful, all indicator lights should illuminate or flash, indicating that you’ve entered diagnostics.
If it doesn’t work the first time, wait a few seconds and repeat the sequence.
Correction for your specific model: The MVWX500XW2 uses the cycle-selector knob to enter diagnostics, rather than the three-button method described above.
AppliancePartsPros Forum
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With the washer in standby and all lights off:
Rotate the cycle selector knob counterclockwise at least one full turn to reset the sequence.
Within six seconds, turn the knob clockwise 3 clicks, counterclockwise 1 click, then clockwise 1 click.
All status lights except Lid Locked should begin flashing.
If they don’t flash, repeat the sequence.
2. Run the automatic diagnostic test
Once in diagnostics, rotate the selector knob until only the Spin indicator is illuminated.
Press Start.
The washer should lock the lid and run an automatic test of its major functions, including filling, agitation, draining, and spinning.
Allow the test to finish, watching for the point where the washer stops or fails to advance.
The automatic test uses water, so leave the water supply connected and turned on.
Manualzz
3. Run the calibration cycle
Because you’ve replaced the drive hub, I also recommend calibrating the washer.
Remove all clothes from the basket and make sure it’s empty of water.
Enter diagnostic mode again using the knob sequence.
Rotate the selector until only the Rinse indicator is illuminated.
Press Start to begin calibration.
Leave the lid closed and allow the washer to complete the process without interruption. It generally takes a few minutes.
The washer should perform a series of short motor movements and finish automatically. Calibration helps the control relearn the washer’s operating characteristics after drive-system repairs.
iFixit Repair Guide
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4. If the automatic test fails
I would check these areas next:
Shift actuator: Located underneath the washer near the belt and splutch assembly. A failed actuator or its speed-sensing circuit can cause F7E1 and prevent spinning.
Splutch and belt: Make sure the belt is seated correctly, the pulley turns freely, and the splutch isn’t damaged or binding.
Drive hub installation: Unplug the washer and verify the hub is properly seated and its fasteners are secure. Check that the basket can rotate without binding.
Lid lock wiring: Since you’ve already replaced the lock, inspect the harness and connectors between the lock and main control. The F5E1 code could indicate a signal problem rather than another defective lock.
Safety: Disconnect power before inspecting anything underneath the washer. Keep hands clear of moving parts during powered tests.
What I’d like you to check
Run the automatic diagnostic test first, followed by calibration.
Let me know whether the basket actually spins during the automatic test, whether calibration completes, and whether F7E1 or F5E1 returns afterward.
If the washer fails to spin during diagnostics, I’d concentrate on the shift actuator, splutch, and motor circuit before considering the main control board.
