[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]My previously bullet-proof 30 year old Maytag “Neptune” (?) has developed a problem. It will SPIN, but not AGITATE. (there is nothing wrong with the motor or belts).[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]When running in the “agitate” part of the cycle (water in the drum, but no laundry)the agitator moves slowly or not at all; after a short time a squealing noise develops.[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]Working from below; turning the large pulley in one direction it locks and the whole transmission rotates (as I understand it should, for spin). Turning it in the opposite direction by hand, no excess effort is needed and the agitator turns back and forth, apparently normally.[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]I believe there is a friction clutch in there somewhere, and it seems likely that this is slipping, but where is it, and how do I get to it! [/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]James [/SIZE][/FONT]
Please recheck your model number.
I have - again! I can understand your query as LA208 does not bring any result on various parts search sites, or even a Maytag site I found. It is very clear on the plate below the washer lid - also serial #392133 ZZ
The schematic wiring diagram carries the number A208
I also noted that the numbers LA208 & 209 came up at the foot of my post, as “related models” . . .
James
A208 makes better sense. Parts are still available for your “Dependable Care” machine. Your description sounds like a bad transmission. The part is rather expensive; you could buy a cheap replacement, or even a good used machine for the cost of the part plus the labor to install. It’s your call. I am personally a Dependable Care fan; but I would have a hard time convincing my wife to spend that much on a repair of a 30-year-old machine…It’s your call.
AP4318941
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]Turns out that my initial asessment of the Brake Unit was incorrect. It appeared to be working as it should when turned CW or CCW by hand, but having removed the basket and powering-up the machine again, the brake was emitting odd noises, and the transmission output shaft suddenly cut-in at normal speed, too and fro.[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]Removing the pressed cover from the brake unit (using 1" 8-32 screws) revealed a sorry state: most of the lining had separated from the rotor, and the whole thing was full of a thick, black grease . . . well, it was of grease like consistency. I suppose it could perhaps be transmission oil that had found it’s way down over the years, and gradually dried-out ?[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]Guess I need to get the basket out and open up the gear-case and see what is left [/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]inside . . . Any comments?[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]James[/SIZE][/FONT]
Open up the gear case, and it’s a gonner.
Try to pull the agitator up without removeing the set screw. There is a clip that holds the transmission s[COLOR=#000000][FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]haft in place, if that clip breaks the agitator will float up during wash and it will not agitate. If this is the case you can simply replace the clip. [/SIZE][/FONT][/COLOR]
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[COLOR=#000000][FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]When this happens I like to change the oil in the transmission because when the agitator floats up water will get down in the transmission. [/SIZE][/FONT][/COLOR]
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[COLOR=#000000][FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]Note that this is only your problem if you try to pull the agitator off and the transmission shaft and all lifts out of the transmission. [/SIZE][/FONT][/COLOR]
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[COLOR=#000000]Clothes Washer Repair Guide
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[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]It occurred to me that your washer might have the flat transmission (not like the one above) and if this is the case disregard my last comment. [/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]I appreciate those speedy replies, but have to say that you have confused me . . .[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]I meant to say previously that my 30+ year old transmission is what I would call the “Pancake, Bell Crank” style, not Orbital! So I don’t know whether that invalidates everything you both said ?[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]At this point I can’t see a problem with opening-up the split case. In fact, I started to do so but closed it again promptly (for the moment) as thick black oil started to escape; that certainally appears to be what got into the clutch/brake unit! [/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]Nevertheless, I can’t imagine that the lubricant started life like that, and I would like to clean it all out and refill with - what? 90EP auto gear lube? Is there any point in trying to find the Maytag Transmission Lube. (part #56080!) that I see on my print-out? Seems to me like an excuse to charge a fancy price . . . Actually it seems rather odd that they even show it, being as there is no facility to add oil to the box; I wonder how it was filled in the factory . . . [/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]Likewise, I can’t see how the output (agitator) shaft could be a problem - presumably that comment referred to the later design transmission?[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]James[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]When I answered your question it never dawned on me that your washer most likely had the older transmission. I answered and left work going home and was thinking you don’t have that type transmission if the washer is that old that is why I came back a posted again. [/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]
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[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]Sorry for the misunderstanding! Just disregard the first post I made.[/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]
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[SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000][FONT=Times New Roman]I don’t know much about the older transmissions so I am afraid I can’t help you with tearing into it. But with all that has been said it does seem like that is the problem. [/FONT][/COLOR][/SIZE]
[FONT=Times New Roman]Well, the job is complete and I am trying to add an attachment here, but am more comfortable with machines than computers![/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman]Think I have done it . . .[/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman]James[/FONT]
Maytag.pdf (47.0 KB)
:mad: [FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]That file was incomplete - as I said, I am not so hot at this. If at first you don’t succeed, try, try again . . .[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]James[/SIZE][/FONT]
Maytag.pdf (50.6 KB)
Congratulations. Keep us updated with its progress. Keep an eye out for oil leaks around the gearcase cap.
hello guys my first post I have an old Maytag, 2 belt system, big bell tranny in the middle, got this used before Christmas, had to put a belt on it after a few uses, the machine is in the basment. Kinda cool just the boiler down there I have a pellet stove up stairs as my prime heat, today did a load could smell a burnt smell, did the next load no adgitation , but bailed the water out,then it would spin, put the machine on it back checked the tranny pulley C. W.— spin cycle. But C.C.W. No go. Then. I drained the tranny to see if any thing was broken. Nothing that I could. See. BUT. The fluid was as thick as molasses then the pulley. Would turn. Both ways. C . W. &. C.C.W. Could it be the fluid, and/ OR The machine being in the basement kinda cool. Anybody ever here of this. Great. Site. Wade. From. P.e.i:confused:
[FONT=Arial]You don’t say what your model number is - it sound as if your machine is similar to my 1979 model A208 . . . I am thinking that the two belts you refer to are one for the transmission and the second for the water pump ?[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial]If that is so, it sounds as if you may have the same problem as I did 4-5 years ago, which is fairly fully described in the[COLOR=red] pdf[/COLOR] attached to my [COLOR=navy]post of Sept.12th, 2010[/COLOR] just above here (on page 1). Which was, that the brake unit located below the transmission, which prevents the complete gear-case from revolving as a unit with the basket in the spin cycle (hence the balance weights), was completely ineffective on account of the fact that the lining was saturated in old lubricant, had disintegrated, and was no longer bonded to the fixed backplate. [/FONT]
[FONT=Arial]I was surprised to realise that the lining material was cork - until I remembered that my first motorcycle had, or so I understood, an oil filled, cork lined clutch; Maytag maybe realised that some oil was likely to find it’s way in! Rather than replacing with a new, unserviceable, unit I relined the old one and it is working happily 5 years on![/FONT]
[FONT=Arial]James[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial]Vancouver, B.C. [/FONT]