If you have a Maytag Performa washer that shakes a lot, or has a weak spin, you probably have a bad snubber.Look for white shavings at the bottom of the washer, this will confirm a bad snubber.If you see a lot of oil at the bottom you have a bad tranny seal, probably new tranny time. A little oil is normal.
To replace this, download the service manual located at (www.appliancejunk.com/forums) Click on manuals, then washers.
Follow the procedure shown, you will need to pull the entire tub out with the tranny, turn upside downand brace with pieces of 2x4’s. To save strain on the back, you can pry up the tub from the bottom and slide out the front. Use electrical metal boxes to spread the springs when removing, or use 1/8 inch thick pieces of metal, no need to buy the spring spreader tool. You will NOT need to buy the expensive brake release tool. If there is a spin screech when stopping, you will need to replace the brakes also, But be careful, there is a 200 pound tension spring in there.
Buy six 8-32 machine screws 1 1/2 inch long and replace the brake housing screws with these. Loosen these screws, keeping the housing even, until all the tension is off the assembly. When you replace the snubber, clean the housing with alcohol getting all the oil off. Emery paper the housing if necessary, then insert the new snubber and sprinkle corn starch on it. That will keep the wear down. If the base is pitted/worn too bad, you might want to replace it.
With your model washer, you may not need to buy the screws, the existing screws might be long enough. Also, you will NOT need to remove the tranny pulley.
Also, I believe this procedure will work for other models with the large snubber in the housing, correct me if I’m wrong.
Probably a two hour job, good luck.
Hi richappy,
I`ve read your instructions for snubber replacement and also downloaded the service manual for the Maytag Performa. If you dont mind, please clarify a few points before I tackle this project.
“Follow the procedure shown, you will need to pull the entire tub out with the tranny, turn upside downand brace with pieces of 2x4’s. To save strain on the back, you can pry up the tub from the bottom and slide out the front.”
What am I turning upside down? the entire washing machine? I understand the snap ring and pully need to be removed so the shaft is free from the base. Where are the 2x4`s used??
“Use electrical metal boxes to spread the springs when removing, or use 1/8 inch thick pieces of metal, no need to buy the spring spreader tool. You will NOT need to buy the expensive brake release tool. If there is a spin screech when stopping, you will need to replace the brakes also, But be careful, there is a 200 pound tension spring in there.
Buy six 8-32 machine screws 1 1/2 inch long and replace the brake housing screws with these. Loosen these screws, keeping the housing even, until all the tension is off the assembly.”
I understand these instructions, but just to be sure…once the spring tension is released from the brake, and the suspension housing is free of the stator, the snubber is accessable for replacement?
Thanks in advance for all your help!
Mr Larry
Once you remove the four springs, the tranny and tub assembly are free to either pull out of the top, or pull out the front of the washer. Also you never need to remove the tranny pulley as the snubber is big enough to slip over it.
Also, you may find the housing screws are sufficiently long to facilitate the release of all the tension on the spring.
Thanks to your advice and guidance, I have replaced the Snubber in my Maytag Performa Washer. The Wife and the Machine are a LOT quieter!!
Tackled mine today and could not relate the “electrical box” suggestion for removing the springs from the tub / base (mine has six springs). Had very little trouble removing the springs with channel locks. Removed the back plate so I could get at the back springs and discharge hose. Tipped it over on it’s side a ways to remove the pulley (keep track of the bunch of washers including thrust washers and a thrust bearing when you take the snap ring off the driveshaft as there are a bunch of them. Springs were a B**** to hook back up. Ended up using vise grips, long screwdriver (as a pry bar) and a six inch log piece of 2 x 4 as a fulcrum. Was a tad surprised as most of my old snubber was intact with just the outer lip worn away but it sure looks like the new snubber did the trick. It is about a two hour job, maybe one hour for the second time around.
I used thick washers to expand the springs and as far as I have seen, you do NOT have to remove the pulley to replace the snubber on the Performa.
Yep I missed the "no need to remove the pulley darn it! Walk the belt off the pulley and out the whole assembly comes. Not having to remove the pulley also eliminates the concern with all of the spacers, thrust washers, and thrust bearing (and greasy fingers). Was impressed with the simplicity of this washer as it had been many moons since I had piddled with one. The new snubber has it working like new again.
[COLOR=#333333]I will be replacing the snubber this weekend due to the Maytag tap dancing during the spin cycle. I will also be replacing the brake due to it squealing once it’s done. Do I need to purchase the expensive spring removal tool for the brake or is there a workaround? This will hopefully the only time I will need to do this and this tool is somewhat expensive for only a one time usage.[/COLOR]
Mine had six springs and I was able to unhook all of them with channel locks (unhook them from the drum not the base)…Getting them hooked up again was nasty. Had to use vise grips on the spring and about a six inch piece of 2x4 and a long screwdriver kinda like a pry bar.
Good luck..you will be happy with the results!
…and this was for the 200lbs brake spring I keep hearing about?
The six springs hold the tub down snug to the snubber / base! they have to come off in order to get the tub out so you can work on it…The 200 lb tension compression spring on the brake is a whole different ball game. Once you get the tub / transmission out and upside down you will see (I think EIGHT) 5/16" hex head screws holding a plate / brake assembly / spring in place.(this plate also holds the snubber in place) I didn’t screw with my brake but it seems you DO have to remove the pully to get the plate off so you can replace the brake. The screws MAY be long enough to release presure on the spring if you brack them out leaving a few threads in the base. If there still seems to be tension I would suggest replacing three or four of the screws with longer ones. Seems like they are 8/32 then continue backing them off until there’s nothing pressing out on the plate suggesting there is still presure on it.
The second one you replace will go faster!!!
When you loosen all the screws on the brake housing, you will release the tension on the internal spring. On the performa, the screws should be long enough to do it.
So when I replace my Brake rotor, lining, and brake stator I will only need to loosen all the screws on the brake housing? I do have a Performa, PAV3300AWW to be exact.
While I didn’t piddle with my brake I would imagine the pully, all the screws, AND the plate / spring have to be removed. The lineing has to be above the spring.
This should be fun. I’m going to try this without the brake tool. Wish me luck.
As long as you no NOT remove the pulley, you will be ok. The pulley will stop the housing from springing out all the way. In case the screws are too short, the only real problem will be it’l be harder to get it back together.
If you are concerned, I would just buy and use the longer screws.
Thought there were replies to your question but don’t see them today. No the springs that hold down force between the tub and snubber are / is not the same as the spring that creates brake force.
[COLOR=#333333]This weekend I replaced the snubber and the brakes. I must say this was all much easier then I was anticipating. The entire job took about an hour. First off, the brake and spring removal tool would have been a complete waste of money. With two of doing this, one person simply pressed down so the screws would reach. The only tricky part was putting the little clip back on towards the end. But even that wasn’t that hard. Simply take a flat head screwdriver and pull it up just enough to slide the clip on.[/COLOR]
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[COLOR=#333333]What would have probably been a $200+ fix if we called the Maytag man ended cost about $25 in parts including shipping ordered from this site. Thanks guys! [/COLOR]
[COLOR=#333333]“one person simply pressed down so the screws would reach. The only tricky part was putting the little clip back”.
Great all went well for you. Don’t understand what you pressed down on so the screws would reach means and surprised the six springs didn’t give you some trouble but I agree a tool would be a total wast of money. I take it you did remove the pulley which I’ve now read isn’t necessary for replacing just the snubber.
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Good work guys and thanks for the feedback.
In retrospect, using the longer 8-32 screws would have made the job easier.
Also, I understand that putting a weight on top of the agitator will make it easier to get the last washer and clip back on the pulley.